AlanM

No hijack. That was exactly my followup question.

DaveS, So you have to use profiles to control intensities, right? You can't have an "If Time then 25%" in the outlet config? Seems like if that's the case, then I'll want a profile with an immediate ramp up to 25% intensity and have an virtual outlet configured that says something like "If you're on, then tell RoyalBlue to use the profiles that ramps immediately to 25%" Can I set the ramp time to 0 minutes, the start intensity to 0 and the end intensity to 25? Are fractional minutes acceptable?

Thanks. I renamed base_Var3 as RoyalBlue and base_Var4 as NeutralWhite. I have the outlets set to Advanced, and they currently have the following in their text field: Fallback OFF Set OFF If Time 08:00 to 20:00 Then ON If Temp > 82.0 Then OFF Min Time 030:00 Then OFF What would I need to do in order to get a button that would let me turn the two of them on at 10% and at 25% (1V and 2.5V) for continuity testing? I kind of get what they're doing in the default program I posted above.

OK. So I'm spamming my own thread, but even the community developed "Comprehensive" reference manual on page 40 gives a list of variables you can test for, but doesn't actually give the variable names, just the descriptions. Neptune Systems seriously needs someone to run javadoc or something to generate some API documentation.

Scott! I recognize your username now. I remember you posting a while ago offering help with Apex programming, but couldn't remember it when I was asking the question. I plan to read the Apex forums and dig for examples there. It kind of seems like once I get my head around what outlets, virtual outlets, and profiles are I should be good to just make them up. The reference material I've found so far is way short of being a real API on how to use these things. Is there a comprehensive command and variable name reference somewhere? Seems like the docs they have are ok, they just need a good programming reference instead of sticking an example or two into the manuals for their modules.

Just programming, I think. I have the 0-10V output ports going to some Steves LEDs Aquarium Controller interfaces translating 0-10V into 0-100% duty cycle PWM and using that to drive some Meanwell LDD PWM input pins. I've wired the LED strings to the LDD outputs and am ready to plug the beast in, but want to make sure I can control intensities from my computer first. I might even hook up a scope to see if I'm getting the PWM output that I expect before risking my LEDs.

Lowes by me has the semi-cruddy Watts brand ones going from various NPT to push-connect. I'd be interested in a Maryland source for name brand Mur-lok or John Guest fittings too.

Those examples are for an AI Sol, unfortunately. See how they are marked as <BluLED_X_5> and <WhtLED_X_6>, or ports 5 and 6 on the VDM which actually only has 4 variable voltage outputs. Turns out the VDM has special controls for AI Sol and Acan Prism and such lights which are on channels 5 and 6 somehow. I don't know why the only advanced example they give was for a proprietary interface to a single manufacturer's light protocol, but I wasn't sure if those commands applied in general to lights where I just care about getting 3V or 5V or 7.5V etc when I want it from that output... Edit: By the way, the advanced pump example in there is for Vortech, I just saw. Also an example for proprietary hardware. Sheesh.

I'm ready to start testing out my LED setup before I put on the lenses so I can correct any issues I have so far without prying off any hot glue. I have 6 channels/drivers, and I'm running them from the last 2 channels of variable ports on the base unit and 4 channels on a VDM. I've read the comprehensive manual and the manuals for the base unit and the VDM and browsed through the Apex forums, but am still having trouble getting my head around what I need to do. I know it somehow involves "outlets", "virtual outlets," and "profiles." What I want during this testing phase is to be able to turn the different channels on at 10%, 25%, 50%, 100%, one at a time to see that they work and nothing releases the magic smoke that makes it work. Can someone give me an example of how to do this or a resource with good examples of what's possible? I've also seen reference to someone who made virtual outlets that were programmed to do different lighting scenarios so running multiple different channels at different preset intensities to get a certain effect. I'd eventually like to be able to do that. I was hoping that the Apex had some kind of sliderbar widget which would just let me vary intensities on the 0-10V ports, but it doesn't seem to do that.

My ro/di coming from my brute smells like cat pee. I've heard that is from the resin. Is that possible?

From the nano-reef forums, the Ecoxotics sound like they are getting corrosion on exposed conductors.

When I finally get my plumbing done, and I know it's working correctly, I'm getting live rock from TBS. I'll post when I do and we can maybe upsize "The Package" if folks are interested in getting some of the really live stuff and want to help schlep it from the airport, but since the airline charges by the pound for shipping I'm not sure if there's a win in doing it that way.

So what's with all of the posts on RC saying how silicone doesnt stick to acrylic? I've also tried to remove some also, and it sticks like heck. It seems like if you are planning a security coat on the inside you would want to remove all of the silicone on the inside except what is sandwiched between the glass panes and add a new bead over that seam. I have read that the internal bead mainly protects the actual seal from water damage rather than itself doing any sealing.

paul b, I don't think "regular" exists anymore, so good luck if you go to buy it. Thanks, Curtis. I do use a bunch of Prime afterwards to soak it for a day and it seems to work ok.

Resurrecting this. I'm regenerating some Purigen with concentrated Clorox instead of the regular Clorox I used to use. From this page: http://www.clorox.co...lar-bleach/ it looks like all it has in it to make it "thicker" feeling is sodium polyacrylate. The other stuff sounds fine for fish water. They don't list fragrance as an ingredient, even though I thought I smelled a little of it. Wikipedia makes the polyacrylate sound like it would be harmless for the fish http://en.wikipedia....um_polyacrylate What do folks here think?

I agree. Cool to see.

A few months ago I'm sure I saw a zeovit tumbler that looked like a high flow kreisel tank with an output in the middle, and I think the idea was that it got the water running in a big circle and kept the media in suspension. So there would be no moving parts, but lots of moving media.

I asked once if there was some way I could stalk him on these forumsand get a notification when he posts, but he said he was only interested in me stalking him if I was a supermodel or something like that.

Haha. Wamas forums need a Like button.

You don't need bulkheads between the internal and external box. Just holes. Those 65mm holes are nice and big, and you'd definitely want bigger openings than you'll have heading down from the external box, which if you're doing a Herbie will have 2 large holes, so I just said 4-5 which should allow the water level in the inside and outside boxes to be the same so there aren't two different levels and two potentially splashy overflows.

Merdad. I am glas you posted how you held that box in place without tipping the aquarium on its back. I would drill 4-5 holes sized for 1.5 inch bulkheads to connect the internal to external overflow. Get lots of good flow without restriction through the glass.

I see some white spots. I think that one has ich. 8)

If you're still rambling on this thread I want to hear the story of pulling a fish out and draining the fluid from a popeye with a needle.

He cut a section out of an old fish net.

Very pretty nem. Hope the clowns dont get too rough on the little guy.