matt

Any space behind all those rocks? If so, then I'd put the left one on the side down pretty low (at least halfway) and point it down the back wall under the overflow box...angled up slightly. I'd then put the right one in the upper right corner and blast towards the opposite corner (upper left). As was alluded to, see if you can get a circular flow (i.e. gyre) going.

I really like this with a reefbrite tech strip...looks great by itself too, but perhaps not blue enough for you if you favor blue, I would +1 this suggestion...but you could also get 3 B+, 1 C+, and 1 P+...then swap the C+ and P+ out to see which you personally prefer with the other 3 B+ bulbs. Just note the P+ doesn't give you as much PAR

perhaps you're too committed now...but if you needs parts... http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/for/5586465349.html This is not mine, just saw it and thought of this thread

BRK has a good process, they're in Manassas. Or, contact Marco from Exotic Reef Creations...MD.

Theoretically, if you had a house drain plumbed to the return section of the sump as an overflow there....then any incoming water change water would push water above that house drain down that house drain. Depending on where in inbound water is plumbed to arrive, you might push some new water down the drain as well, but I suppose you could go this route for simplicity. However, there are probably some other downsides to this type of setup I'm not imagining...like dropping a fish bag from the LFS in to temp acclimate would automatically flush some system water down the drain without some manual valve controls.

Always hard to gauge real colors in online pics, but saw you said you had a yellow photosynthetic gorg. Is it the one on the center rock's right side or something else? Cheers

How is this tank doing? Always thought it was great. Any update?

Very very nice! So where do you get your gorgs?

And +1...works great and was uber cheap

Oh, and look around on nano-reef.com fo some ideas you like...totm threads are helpful

Is 10g limit applied to the display or system volume? Sump or hang on fuge could add helpful water volume. Check out eviota gobies

Ditch the frag plugs if possible, but it sounds like you're ok...coral QT sounds like it would ha e revealed issues.

No, I was fine. No change in the few corals I had or the fish.

Neat, so you used this right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Floral-Water-Holder-Tubes-Plastic-Lot-of-12-for-Flower-arrangements-or-Bouquet-/111971124887?hash=item1a11ffc697:g:rLAAAOSwJQdXAujP

I loved this coral too...when I had it. It took on a darker color under T5 for me, and the parts where the reefbrite shown on it the color looked more like isaac's. I got mine from Brad, and not sure where he had gotten it. Hard to see, but my avatar has that tank's first fish (clown) and my original frag of this coral stuck into my sandbed. Here is a crappy pic sometime before I lost it in my move a couple years later.

This is what I did on my 90g tank when I had dinos earlier this year. I followed some other trusted members' advice and it worked well. Dosing common hydrogen peroxide in the right percentages did the trick and my dinos were pretty darn bad. I wouldn't think you'd need to do more than 2-3ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10g (probably just fine on the low end) each day in total...the good news is you're treating for something you're worried about versus something you're seeing...right? Day 1 - 1ml 3% hydro per 10g Day 2 - 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g Day 3 - AM 1.8ml 3% hydro per 10g PM 2ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3.8ml per 10g) manual removal as much as possible, cleaned skimmer, blackout begins at lights out (planning blackout until Friday AM) Day 4 - AM 2ml 3% hydro per 10g PM 1ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3ml per 10g) BLACKOUT day 1 Day 5 - AM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g PM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3ml per 10g) BLACKOUT day 2 Day 6 - AM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g PM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3ml per 10g) BLACKOUT day 3 Day 7 - AM 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g PM - planning 1.5ml 3% hydro per 10g (total 3ml per 10g) BLACKOUT ended, tank reopened And I continued to hyrdogen peroxide treatment for 2+ wks in total, tweaking to 1.5ml per 10g twice daily after getting some advice along the way...so I treated for a little over a week after my blackout period. Not a trace of them now - zero!

Treat the frag tank for dinos. When all is good, do the transfer. Plenty of people treat their displays for dinos, so it's inconvenient for sure but not a deal breaker...I wouldn't junk the corals.

I'm not sure there is a "right" answer, because moving corals isn't just about the light. However, this is what I think. MH to MH, similar par should probably be ok. T5 to T5, similar par should probably be ok. When going from MH to T5 or vice versa, similar par should probably be ok but I would still light acclimate. When going to/from LEDS to/from MH/T5/other-LEDs, I would, personally, always light acclimate. I would suspect some of the LED coral burnings people have had when they were just starting to use LEDs were due to so much of the par coming in a more limited spectrum...such that certain spectrum intensities were higher than prior lighting over a specific coral just prior. I don't know that I'm right, it's what I suspect...but I haven't experienced that situation personally or ever attempted a scientific study on the matter. Best advice = better safe than sorry

Cool, thanks for posting up that list

What kind of corals touched without effects...would be good to know

Isaac, the design of your tank doesn't allow much evap...so I'm not surprised you've been able to get by without the ATO. Not everyone is diligent in top-offs though, and with more open surface area an ATO is a good idea in my opinion. Heater depends on the temp of the room and the stability of that temp. Swings in parameters are normally going to be bigger in small tanks....so stocking things that are relatively durable isn't a bad idea. However, I still have a dream of a 5.5g acro tank on my desk...but until that day I stare at a reminder of what can happen quickly in a small water volume Evan, hope your tank doesn't look like this :-)