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Anemone

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    Falls Church, VA

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Tang

Tang (6/13)

  1. I got thinking about this question after some recent flooding and we were supposed to boil drinking water. Chloramine isn't at high enough levels to kill some contaminants that might get into the pipes, I guess. When I worked in a lab, there was a DI water supply for the whole building, and they also UV sterilized that water. Like I said, maybe just paranoia to even think about this... Though it would beat having to boil water every now and again.
  2. Just curious, does anyone bother to sterilize their RO water? The instructions on my RO system specifically says that it is not able to remove microbes.
  3. Jason, how dark do you recommend?
  4. "Drill, baby, drill." If you're nervous, you can practice on a spare tank first. It probably took me 15 minutes per hole with the bits that came with a Glass Holes kit. I used my cheap Black and Decker cordless drill/driver with the torque limiter on the lowest setting to limit the risk from binding. Other than that, just keep your work wet and don't push. Some people recommend constant water flow but mine worked fine just with a little water poured onto the glass (tank was on its side).
  5. For those who use a salinity probe, just wondering how long they keep giving stable readings. Any experiences appreciated.
  6. One way of thinking about the flow rate is that, if the goal is to keep consistent parameters between the display and refugium, then the flow rate is dictated by the size of which ever has the smaller volume. To take an extreme example, if the ocean was your tank, you wouldn't have to push 5 ocean volumes per hour through your fuge. It'd be sufficient to turn over the fuge volume a few times per hour. Let the ocean mix itself.
  7. If splicing you might consider selling the splice point with heat shrink tubing for a more finished look and to help seal against water. It probably goes without saying but this type scenario is another reason to make sure your circuits are GFCI.
  8. Depending on your art skills and time you can spend on this, there are some fantastically beautiful ways to get greater depth on this RC thread. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1868825 Another option is to use a cling or poster board to try out the black/blue/purple choices to see which one you like best. Personally I am in the "black" camp just because I think it is forgiving if you don't always keep the back glass clean. But a dark blue or dark purple might be just as good in that respect.
  9. Thanks for the input. I've started with the caulk. Hard to find the time with a new house full of projects. I should have asked, if the painting and liner are equally good for containing leaks, but the liner is faster to install (true?) maybe I should switch over to a liner just for time savings. Comments?
  10. Awesome, thanks for sharing. Makes me want one. Species tank only, I think. Surprising that they haven't taken over the entire ocean. "Stay afraid." Good advice.
  11. If you find a place to buy one please do let us know. Another mantis article, sadly without a source for purchase (his was bought locally in Fla.) http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/5/inverts
  12. Slightly off topic but as a mantis fan you might appreciate this (warning, there is some NSFW language on the site, though this comic is clean): http://theoatmeal.com/comics/mantis_shrimp
  13. Probably have to wait for fall to be able to find the Prestone for sale...
  14. Very good to know! I'll try to remember to place a water sensor in there too.
  15. Any chance it'd just a mistake by the shop? Not many here would know your full name, right?
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