hypertech

Day 5 Algae might be taking a brownish hue. Or, my mind is playing tricks on me hoping something is finally working. One thing is for sure, it is matting up in high flow areas like pumps and the overflow. I scrubbed it today. Removed a pile of it. Probably released a bunch back into the water but at least I got some our and it doesn't look so bad now. Ph has dropped about 0.2. Not sure if it's related.

Either replace the sand bed or rinse it really really well. Especially if it's been established for any amount of time.

Day 4 A few more bubbles. No significant effects yet to algae or corals.

Day 3. Some bubbles on the algae. This has happened before though so I don't know if it's the h2o2. I've taken the GFO out and started running carbon.

I suspect you brushed up against a bristle worm that was in the algae. If you rinse it with vinegar right away, it will dissolve the bristles and reduce the effects. At this point there likely isn't much to do but wait for it to finish healing.

2 days in. Does not seem to have affected it at all yet. I'm dosing to the return chamber of the sump.

Just tested alk. I get 9 dkh on my kit. I did have some fluctuations as I fiddled with my ca rx but it's been pretty stable at least the last month.

Unless you are using a fresh solution every time you are probably doing more harm than good.

It has been a little while since I calibrated it. I don't trust my solution anymore. It's sealed tight but it has been opened for too long. I didn't think to add any to my recent BRS order either........

I have a calibrated refractometer. Test kits are salifert but are starting to get older. Hmmmmm.......

I have one reactor. I can run carbon or GFO but not both at the same time.

I've tested the source water. I've tested the tank. I don't over feed. I do over skim. There is no reason for this stuff not to be dead. I did a water change two days ago and scrubbed as much as I could and darn it all the stuff took off and had a growth spurt. I'd have to take the GFO offline to run carbon. I assumed it would be better to run the gfo to absorb any phosphates from a die off. Am I better off running carbon?

I decided to give hydrogen peroxide a try. I added 10 ml to my 75g plus 20l sump system today. Fingers are crossed. Anyone here used h2o2 before?

It can knock the algae back but it will not solve the problem. Once the algae dies, it will break down and new algae will grow back from the released nutrients.

What kind of light and how close is it? I don't use a shield on my T5s. As long as they aren't getting salt spray and you wipe it down every once in a while the reflectors hold up pretty well. However, if this is a DE metal halide bulb, you need to leave the glass on as that is the UV filter and it is required.

Lol. It is never no mas. There is always something mas to buy.

Wait, say what? I live in the Alexandria part of Fairfax County. I use RODI but have been battling pesky hair algae too. Could this chloramine be causing me problems too?

8 is not bad for out of the membrane depending on what your input is. If you replaced DI resin product water should be zero. If not, you may not have it packed in tight and it is channelling.

BRS may have started as a hobbyist reselling but they are much more than that now. I think they are up to something like 30 employees and their warehouse is very large. With a tank this large I would get a dual DI so that you can fully exhaust the resin and get the most out of it before replacing.

They left my little ones alone. I could never keep a big one more than a couple months. Got rid of the peppermints that weren't eating the aiptasia anyway and now no problems. The more I look at that pic the more it looks like a sting.

I'm convinced they eat feather dusters and I'll never have them again. But, when I did keep them, I never had any issue with rics. It looks like it could be a sting as well. Is it near any LPS? I also see two mouths. It doesn't look quite like mine do when they split, but keep an eye on it and see if it starts dividing.

Thanks for the link. This is going in a canopy that I'll finish along with the skin on my stand someday. So, I'll be getting rid of the T5s when I switch over. Any comments on how many or what optics? I'm leaning towards 12 and dimming them if need be.

I've never kept snails in the refugium. I didn't know people do that. I have snails spawn all the time but the only ones that have ever seemed to survive were colonista snails. Actually, I wouldn't mind getting them in this tank.

I don't use the sponge but my eheim still has a plastic cover that would keep all but the smallest snails out. Why do you have snails in your sump?

I bet it would take about $100 and a bunch of fiddling to get that to work right assuming all the parts like the flow restrictor are there. It doesn't even have the good push connect fittings. A new one can be had for $140-150. Less if that other canister is a DI in good condition. Just buy this next week: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/75-gpd-ro-di-5-stage-standard-system.html The new one will come with all the fittings to connect to the supply line, be plumbed correctly and ready to hook up, and have instructions as to which line goes where. Then figure out if that booster pump works and sell it to offset your costs. You could get that to work - it is just a plastic housing after all, but without being familiar with how it should be setup and how the water should flow through it (it does matter what direction t goes), I recommend just getting a new one.