hypertech

Unfortunate no. It goes in a fitting in the reactor plumbing. Without the probe there's a big hole.

It offers some isolation. If that's your goal, a length of silicone tubing is best IMHO.

Ph probe would end up fully submerged. Can't do this can I?

I did something to the pump on my Calcium reactor while I was working on the tank and it started leaking. I'm in the process of fixing it. So, now I'm worried that it might do it again. Any reason I can't put it in the sump and run it mostly submerged?

I agree. They are not soooo superior that they are always better no matter what. I don't like them for the main lights. I think I would use them for supplementation only.

Will your heater fit in those tiny chambers? Also no where to add feed pumps for reactors, etc. A refugium that small is basically a gimmick. I'd get rid of it and add that area mostly to the skimmer area to accommodate other equipment. A bigger return area will also give you more time for evaporation before the pump runs dry. Even if you have an ATO, you want it to be able to run a day or two in case you are out of town for the weekend and it fails and no one is around to fix it.

The vibration could also be from the pipe. I put a good length of silicone tubing between the pump and the pipe. Vinyl tubing works too but isn't quite as effective.

Your readings are all over the map and that strikes me as odd. It seems unusual that it would spike to 8, drop to 2, then jump back up to 8. Have you had someone double check your tests?

haha, looks like you were posting right as I was editing to add the same thing. Must be good advice.

You don't need to do anything but add top off water so the pump doesn't run dry. The one thing that annoys me about about the eheim pumps is that they don't come with suction pumps or any kind of pad to sit them on. They run very quiet, but without something they do vibrate on the glass a little. I have a vibration dampening pad from BRS, but I've hear of people using everything from suction cups to mouse pads and silicon hot pads. Edited to add: Rule #1 - never change anything right before a vacation. If you are going to install the overflow an and then skip town, I'd suggested just leaving it drained till you get back. For whatever reason, Murphy strikes twice as often if you install or change something right before you leave.

Don't underestimate the stress of that much sloshing water on the tank and stand. If you're not careful moving it, the whole thing could twist, snap and crash. Most stands are not designed to handle torsional stresses that could happen if moved under load.

No.

I suspect you will not get very many entries. That's a lot of work for someone to do to be considered. I'd be rather upset if I went to that much work preparing information about my tank to have it left on the cutting room floor. Doing it quarterly and changing it to be a feature instead of a contest might get more interest built. It might also get people who have a nice tank but feel it isn't quite up to par just yet (even if it really is) more engaged.

It sounds like he tried it without a valve and it was too noisy so he's going to try a herbie. To do a herbie, you need a valve.

I'd still install the float an inch two above the mark. Then adjust to have the waterline at the mark.

Generally no. A pair of clowns is it per tank. Occasionally it does work if the tank is large enough or you get lucky.

Anyone have a reference for a good cabinet maker that takes small jobs at fair prices? I need a skin on my stand and canopy built.

6"? That gives up a lot of capacity for no good reason. I put the input hole for the float as high as possible. I put an overflow to the drain right about the same spot to prevent overflows if the float sticks. The good floats are adjustable to set the water level. There's a wingnut but that changes the angle of the float.

You should have just thrown the sand bed away when you moved the tank. At this point, it very much appears to be making things worse. I would suck it out at this point and do a massive water change. 1ppm water is better than 8ppm. With the source gone, hopefully the die off will stop and you can get ahead of it.

I think mine is from Indelco. They can be expensive, but its about the only way to go if you have specific dimensions in mind. I have heard of people using old water softener tubs.

I'm in the farifax county part of alexandria. I get my water from fairfax water company. I tested mine 0, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. I have a regular RODI and do not have the special chloramine block in it.

Fwiw, saltwaterworx quoted me a fair price for one right before one came available here. Their price was half the price I got from an LFS to order we one. Their sea hares are apparently gold plated.

I've tried a sailfin tang, a yellow tang, and a one spot rabbit fish. None have touched it in my tank. I just picked up a sea hare. Whatever I've got is outright evil. I've tried everything and nothing seems to be working. I start winning for a while then BAM, it springs back.

I prefer hard pipe with a length of silicone tubing to insulate the pump from vibrating the plumbing.

Get rid of it. If that drain gets something in it and backs up (that's what the emergency is for), I think water might shoot out of that hole. I also strongly recommend switching to a good quality gate valve now. Those ball valves get harder and harder to adjust over time and the adjustments you make need to be very small.