hypertech

I am knowledgable about how everything works, I just haven't kept up with the specs on the latest offerings. I am currently running 2x150W HQI with Pheonix 14k bulbs on a 75g that a supplement with one UVL454 T5. I like the color. I am currently planning to upgrade to 2x250W HQI and I'm concerned that my one T5 will be over powered and washed out. So, I'm thinking of replacing it with a string of LEDs. Now for the questions: How many LEDs do I need. XP-E's appear to be the current favorite LED, so I was planning on using those unless there is something else I should consider. Do I need 6, 12, some other number? What do you suggest? I think I can run up to 14 on one driver. I was planning to use a dimmable Mean Well and connect it to my Apex. What color? I was looking at the spectrum plot on the UVL 454 and I'm guessing I want most if not all being royal blues. Any links to good reading on selecting color? What optics? I currently have the one T5 at the front of the tank with the reflector tilted about 45 degrees toward the tank to illuminate most of the rock structure. I have good coverage from a single bulb in this way I don't want light spilling out and I don't want to light only half the tank - that would look odd. Comments on 55 vs 80 degree? 80 seems like it might be too wide, but I'm not sure one strip with 55 would have good coverage. I'm aware of RapidLED and Heatsink USA. Any other good vendors to check?

To be honest with you, your best bet is to sell that to someone who is interested in what looks to be a booster pump. If that works it has some value. It doesn't look like there are any filters in it and if it has been sitting and the membrane dried out it probably needs to be replaced. By the time you buy all that stuff you'll almost be at the price of a new unit (that won't look like Frankenstein built it).

Your water pressure is set at 100psi? That's really high.

Are you sure its a worm and not a piece of algae? I've never seen a green worm and would probably do the following: when in doubt, throw it out.

Both of those drains can be quiet, but sometimes they aren't. Go with a Herbie and you are basically guaranteed it will be quiet. To do that, you use both as drain lines and go over the back with the return. You put a gate valve on one drain. I do have a 1" gate valve I cut out of my system when I thought it had failed, but it turned out to be something else. Don't use the gate valve at Home Depot. You want one like BRS sells that's all plastic.

Good luck. That's a specialty item. I see a BRS order in your future.

I'd guess you need a sched 40 3/4" and a sched 80 1". Note that the outer dimension of the pipe is the same so you don't need sched 80 pipe for the sched 80 bulkhead. You can use the sched 40 from home depot.

I can only see the thumbnail. Looks like a brittle star or serpent star. It's a good scavenger and a nice freebie. Not likely to bother your goby unless it were pretty sick.

If they are threaded, then you need a fitting. They have them at hd.

Yes. It comes with the temp probe and can do ph monitoring/control if you add a ph probe. BRS probes are cheap and work though the Neptune probes do seem to be a little better.

Almost missed it. The lite has the plug but does not come with the probe. BRS sells them cheap. My BRS probe seems to need recalibrating a little more often than my Neptune probe but otherwise works fine.

The light has a single probe built into the unit. The full has 2 so you can do ph and orp or two ph. There really isn't a need for two probes unless you are running something like a calcium reactor or ozone. The variable outputs can be used to control variable speed pumps (like tunze 6055s) or to control a dimmer on lights.

That's a ton of money to spend to check your salinity. Just get a refractometer. BRS sells them with calibration fluid at a good price and there is a group buy next week. If you plan on running a ca reactor or something that needs the variable outputs (pumps lights) then get the full apex. Otherwise the light is fine. Other than the ports and one probe instead of two they are the exact same.

Not sure about the 2" hole. This maybe? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/pumps-and-plumbing/plumbing-sumps-drill-bits-overflows-uniseals/bulkhead-tank-adapters/schedule-80-bulkhead-tank-adapters/1-sch-bulkhead-slip-x-thread-slip-on-the-flange-head-side.html BRS group buy next week if you need parts.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/pumps-and-plumbing/plumbing-sumps-drill-bits-overflows-uniseals/bulkhead-tank-adapters/abs-bulkhead-tank-adapters/3-4-abs-bulkhead-slip-x-slip.html

It's just a piece of acrylic with a strip glued to the bottom to hold it in place. If your plumbing sticks up out of the overflow your are going to have trouble with any cover. Why not shorten the plumbing?

This is the one I got. I think he sells them for corners and dual kits too. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=370545140859&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=63259253336

Will they cut the rounded profile or just a rectangle?

Measure the diameter of the hole then check the bulkhead pages on bulk reef supply. They list the size of the hole corresponding to the size of the bulkhead.

There is a guy on eBay who sells acrylic ones. They aren't fancy but they work great and you don't have to fiddle around with tracking down and cutting black acrylic.

You guys must have really crappy table saws. Changing the blade on mine takes 30 seconds or less. I use an 80 tooth blade like you would use for finishing work not ripping plywood. Works great.

I'll take your router table and raise you one table saw with a fence.

Dremel. If you don't have one and don't have access to a table saw to just cut it off, you could probably do it with a coping saw. FWIW, I would use black silicone and I've used plenty of the stuff from HD without a problem. Just get the stuff without the mildew/mold inhibitors in it. Even then, I'm starting to hear that the whole don't use the wrong silicone thing is maybe a little overblown.

Did you order a dc8 or the energy bar 8? I don't think a ac jr is compatible with the energy bar 8.

That box doesn't need a back. Cut it off. Then put the bulkhead in the hole in the glass and silicone the now three sided box into the tank.