bluefunelement

Unless you get the roots though it will come back - consider manual removal - see where it spruts back - prune that off and cover with putty. Should keep it away then

One large concern of mine going rimless - good news is I can hear them hit the hardwood floor even in my sleep Found one of my Nass snails hanging upside under the lid drying out a few days ago - he was an inch from the water but hanging in for everything -poor snails - high tide will never come to save you.

+1 AWI I have a similar one and you need to run the post membrane water to the check valve -then a "T" going to your storage tank and the other going to a newly replaced taste filter then out to your faucet. the other post membrane line can go out to the DI then your bucket http://www.airwaterice.com/product/ADDVERTDI/Vertical-Color-Changing-DI-Adder-Kit.html

I've gotten some browned SPS and Chalice that took months to get back the right colors - brown Pocillopora turned bright green while another went to purple - turd brown chalice is now a nice purple with blue streaks and orange mouths. At the same time a rainbow favia went to brown and a fungia shrunk down from to much light - really need to find the right spot and give it time.

I've got tissue receding from the side of my trumpet facing my MP10- too much flow

I haven't had a big tank in some time but the Margarita's were great cleaners but didn't last long for me - sally lightfoots get carnivorous, my emeralds would upset my LPS while clinging to them. my 2cents is too add them in 3 smaller batches as your food sources gradually increase, mix up the hermits, add nerites and astrea instead of margarita, and forgo the sally. A 180 has alot of sandbed but you might back off so many Nass unless you tend to overfeed as they'll only eat meaty foods. sorry - Left-handed - I was hoping you'd call and ask for Left leg though

I have always gotten got service from reefcleaners.org - might I recommend left-handed hermits - my large 1" mature one eats GHA better then a turbo- actually he's hiding as one.

I would group fans into the following categories; Active - controlled by water/air temp sensor and/or by RKL etc Passive - turned on/off by timers etc And as long as you are ok with air temp controlled vs water temp then these would help - Ventec Thermoflow fans They run at a constant low speed till 77deg then ramp up to full speed at 131deg so I would buy the larger one and expect them to come on as the cabinet heats up under the lights and go off after in the evening - the advantage with this over passive is they would run faster and longer during summer and after the lights turn off. Currently I am running active with an RKL, passive on another tank, and looking at these ThermoFlow's for work. BTW - here's a nice description of a cabinet setup incl power supply for speed control. http://www.buyextras.com/cafankivath1.html

I spoke with their breeder this winter about their clown gobies (or lack of) and they mentioned this - apparently the market is right I think I'll find a home for one even if its a bit extra.

I did that too - the water freeezing and expanding breaks the cylinders - if your threads are ok you can get new canisters but it's likely a loss

Holy Scolly!!!!!!

I'm taking mine out and removing the bubbles with a dental pick popping as few as possible and rinsing the rock before dropping it back in the tank - only a few grow back and I'm beating it slowly - don't let it spread elsewhere and get an urchin

point - counterpoint format could be side by side lists with one reefkeeper writing each DSB or no DSB MH or T5 skim or no skimmer refugium or mech only Dose or WC UV or not no bioballs or no bioballs I volunteer for MH as I can show off some recent color morphs that are amazing

I worked their 15+ years ago and all are nice people - probably not anywhere near as knowledgeable as most WAMAS members though Catch their fish shipments when they arrive I think Wed-Thur as they usually get good wild caught if your into that their corals langish though - they're getting better but again try to catch the corals as they arrive vs after you see necrosis set in. CMAS just did a frag fest there and we bought/sold some colonies - walked out with Acan Lords, Cyphastrea, Gold Zoas, etc

My small CPR has MJ600 and I'm thinking of adding a small 80pgh pump recirc in the fuge itself.

I only know if a mushroom needs more light by putting it down in the tank on the sand/shade and watch it stretch for more light - thats the only clear indication I have that it's ready to move up which I do unless it's bleached and needs more TLC. Your best bet here is to take all but one down and leave one where it is. You can then compare in 2 weeks then 4 weeks to see where it needs to be. Post pics and we'll help you. I have a true flouro pink mushroom that is in the shade (50-75PAR) and does not stretch out for light so I leave it there - I will likely move it up after a while but I want to balance large light greedy polyps with enough light for growth and budding. You can kinda see him in the back of this iPhone shot :

I got some clear netting like the window screen from a nano-reef guy - works great

+1 MP10 in my 6G I went with the long Loc-line with nozzles along it's length so it flows into under around the back of my rock. twistable and adjustable so you can move it around - highly recommend but won't give you the wave action of an MP10- maybe locline + a small wavemaker and pumps? http://www.marinedepot.com/Loc_Line_1_2_inch_Ball_Socket_Circle_Flow_Assy_1_2_Inch_Loc_Line_Plumbing_Parts-Loc_Line-LL1131-FIFTLLHI-vi.html

my 24g had 0 nitrates then and now but spiked to 30-40 for a month when I dropped in a bunch of liverock (already cured) that stopped the flow and trapped food. After feeding less, regular WC's, and adding another powerhead nitrates are back to 0.

add Botryocladia and he'll deco himself with them -also same with zoas if you keep the rest of the tank sparse - don't add a sponge filter as he will tear off bits and turn into a spider crab

"They eat zoo because it's decaying/melting" I take this more as an Old Wives Tale - I've got decaying/melting Zoas/Paly's they won't touch and I have very healthy Zoas that they almost decimated - in this case they had a hideout under the healthy zoas and I think foraged close to home - an emerald crab had eaten ALL the algae in the tank so they ate what was next on the menu. A sixline keeps their pop down to manageable levels - those Zoas are now back, color morphed, and growing like crazy - except one which is closed, algae covered, and yet no amphipod attacks.

These guys? They were outa control 24/7 a while ago and I caught them eating on my zoas and decided to get a sixline wrasse who takes care of them during the day - no population explosion since.

I like how they cover their own eyes when they protect themselves and therefore have to have false eyes and swim backwards away from the threat.

Is your water the color of green tea?