BrendanG

That Maxspect Razor, does look really clean over most nano's....(is it dimmable? will I risk bleaching corals with it) The Par 38/Par 30 are great options as well...( I've seen some units are dimmable) I'll prob ditch the ecoexotic stunners...They just sit atop the tank, and take away from the display.

I currently have (2) 6w stunner strips with reflectors (16) 445nm Blue and (8) Magenta per strip lying around. I've been contemplating purchasing possibly 1 or 2 additional stunner strips to supplement White Light Perhaps a (18) 8,000k White and (6) 453nm Blue how important is providing UV spectrum for corals? Would It be Wise to purchase a 403nm UV Stunner Strip? My other options would most likely be a Dimmable PAR38 or PAR30...12"+ Hanging Height... Thoughts?

How would you light a PicoAquarium 15x15x8 Looking to Keep Ricordea, Zoanthids, Blasto's, Acans, and Rock Flower Anemones. What fixture would YOU, put over such a tank?

Great meeting you today, the Zoas look great! Thanks for coming out! oh... and your tanks nice too.

I've been debating LED vs. MH lighting options for my New Manta Ray 15. Research, and some personal experience seems to suggest that Zoas do very well under intense Metal Halide Lighting. I'm now looking into purchasing either a 150w or 70w Sunpod. I will primarily be keeping zoanthids, maxi and rock anemone's. My past zoanthid dominated tank was a Aquapod 12, lit by a 150w Sunpod. (16.5"L X 12"W X 13.75"H.) The legs are 2.5" tall [/img] I'm curious about the shallow tank depth of the Manta Ray (15x15x9) and Metal Halide Overkill, but as evidenced by my previous tank, the zoa's seem to be relatively unaffected by the light intensity? I'm looking for a little bit of insight, personal obeservations and reccomendations, regarding my lighting options. I want good growth, good color, and have a preference for 150w Pheonix 14k Bulbs. Would You go with the 150w or 70w Based on the pictures and your experience with zoa's, and their light tolerance/adaptability? Heat and evaporation issues aside...

In the process of upgrading tanks, and going from a 10x10x10 cube to a PicoAquariums Manta Ray 15 (15x15x9) I'm in need of lighting advice, and am extremely cautious. I've bleached an entire ricordea collection by underestimating the power of LED's in about a week. I'm trying to make sure I don't make the same mistake. I'd like to keep zoas, rics, lps, rock anemone's, a clam and maybe some SPS down the line All representing a variety of lighting requirements/tolerances. After debating between LEDTRiC's Tru Pop Par38, and its fan boys praising its sheer brightness and color and Orphek's claim about Photosynthetic Usable Radiation, and its dimming capabilities I think I'm sold on Orphek. I'd like to avoid the stadium lighting experience and crazy light spill from the LEDTRiC at my work desk. (Most people seem to be hanging them 12-18" above their pico/nano) Does anyone have experience with Orphek Lights? Will a Par30 or Par38, be better suited towards my aquarium inhabitants lighting requirements, and my personal preferences? Orpheks claim: http://orphek.com/led/2011/09/pur-photosynthetically-useable-radiation/

whats the back wall made of? Touch and Foam??? looks great!

Looking to add 3 fish to my 12 gallon... uhuo----maybe I'm pushing my limits... fully cycled, I'd say established, however I just LOST my candy hogfish..disappeared... and in a reef, I highly doubt he'll ever be recovered... between the peppermint shrimp, 5 blueleg hermits, emrald crab, huge hitchkier gorilla crab, and tons of bristleworms, after 5 days of disappearance, doub't he'll come back... So, I'm looking for stocking suggestions, Zoa Dominate Tank, a few clams, rose bubbletip, primairly a softie reef I'm religious on my wc's, (bi weekly 2g) as I try to promote tank stability. Fish I'm looking for? Really into color balance, and fish activity on all levels BUT I also want fish that arn't overly kept...six lines, royal grammas, you get the picture Any Ideas as to what Fish Could fit the bill? I've been a fan of dwarf angels, and have kept a Flameback for quite some time in the 12g looking to have a PYGMY again any ideas, comments as to what to pair it with?

I've kept Multiple BTA's in your exact set up , 10gallon aquarium with a 20" Coralife 1x96w PC fixture. Your anemone will have more than adequate lighting requirements, but as other members have brought up before, keep close tabs on your water quality, and you should be just fine!

I've had it happen on occasion, where some colonies tend to die back, while others thrive. Your water parameters may be on point, tank may be pest free, lighting and water circulation are dead on, but there are aspects of the hobby that are a mystery. My experiences with zoa melting are rather infrequent, but something that the majority of zoa enthusiasts may have experienced at one point or time in the hobby. a few RC members mention that could be an infection within the mat itself, and advise periodic "blowing" with a powerhead to remove any dead spots, due to detritus sitting for a long period of time, could possibly help the situation. Having talked to my dad, who knows nothing about reef husbandry, he had mentioned that it could simply be part of their "life cycle". I've often had one or two polyps hold on, and keep the colony going. I know its not quite the help that your looking for, but it seems there isn't much of an answer to confront the mysteries of zoanthids melting. Freshwater dips, Coral Revive, Nutrient Rich water, Dosing buffered vitamin C or iodine and magnesium; and supplemental feedings do little to curb the process. I'm kind of under the impression that its natural selection. I hope more studies are conducted on it, and Coral Hind does have a point, things kinda just "don't happen" there is almost always an underlying cause. Stay strong, the majority of your colonies will!

as cool as it is... I'm sure his bite is shocking! (I couldn't resist)

Try feeding sushi roe, (Typically flounder or salmon) I've generally had very good luck with that. Highly nutritious, and you'll get some weight on that mandarin quite quickly. You'll be able to find it most Asian markets. Be sure to get it in water, not vinegar. Ovamar which I think is Oystereggs, is also taken readily. if your worried about other fish, use a small baby jar, empty the food in there, and scoot that mandarin in there...Eventually they'll associate it with food, and you'll be set! Melev has had great success with this method, and it's worked for me

It's disheartening to run to the LFS and find emaciated dragonettes in bare 10 gallon tanks, and few employees that take the extra initiative to feed a variety of foods to encourage feeding, luckily those days are numbered, and one of the hobbies favorite fish, is finally being captive bred! For many years marine aquarium hobbyists have been captivated by the exquisite beauty of Mandarin Gobies (actually Dragonettes). Their popularity, however, is tempered by the fact that they are difficult to feed in captivity and are subject to questionable collection practices in the wild. Unfortunately, most Mandarins succumb to starvation in home aquariums, even with the best intentions and attempts at feeding. Thankfully, all of that is about to change. ORA biologists have succeeded in developing the methods needed to breed and raise commercial numbers of the two species of Mandarins, the Blue Mandarin (Synchiropus splendidus) and the Spotted Mandarin (Synchiropus picturatus). Building on the early success of breeders such as Julian Sprung, Wolfgang Mai, and more recently Matt Wittenrich, ORA is now poised to have commercially bred Mandarins available to everyone. The significance of this cannot be understated as it is a major advance in marine aquaculture and solves many of the problems associated with keeping these species. Just as the first captive bred Seahorses were trained to eat frozen foods, ORA has already trained our baby Mandarins to eat commercially available frozen diets. This fact alone makes them easy to feed and care for, and the average aquarist will delight in not having to worry about sources of live food for their finicky eaters. Our goal is to have them soon weaned onto a pellet diet. We expect to have these fish eating pelletized foods before being released for sale. ORA is the leader in bringing the marine aquarium industry new and exciting aquacultured species. With the addition of Mandarins to our ever-growing list, a major milestone in aquaculture has been achieved. We are sure that our retail customers and hobbyists alike will be elated that captive raised Mandarins are finally available and that a page has been turned in the tragic history of this beloved aquarium fish. We expect to have significant numbers of Spotted Mandarins available this summer. Blue and Red Mandarins will be available in more limited quantities around the same time. (Courtesy of Reefbuilders)

lets see some Macro Shots!

I've simply found it interesting with many websites, and even a few die hard zoa fans on reef central that speak on the importance of supplemental feeding of zoanthids. Almost as if they treat their zoanthids like their cnidarian cousin, the larger single polyp anemone's. The thought being that nearly all zooanthids rely on particulate food and plankton capture to sustain their metabolism. Could this possibly relate to their success in less than optimal water conditions, low lighting requirements, and even the possible demise in sterile tanks? (ie. after heavy carbon use ect) I've only fed Microvore Microdiet by Brightwell Aquatics, and have noticed, as mentioned above, that some zoa's demonstrate a feeding response while others do not. I guess a better question which would be the best "particular" sized food. Cyclopeeze and Oyster Eggs seem to be a coral staple.