Integral9

I don't know if it's in response to the travesty on Animal Planet or not, but it's a nice to see someone who's got the the money for a huge tank, do things the right way. <cough cough> tap water <cough cough> ice machine <cough cough> old leather shoes <drooool> "....So I hope this gives you an idea of how to setup a saltwater tank, the RIGHT way...."

You should remove the existing sealant and I didn't use anything to make the bead (expect a paper towel) and then I used the alcohol to clean the silicon off my hands.

Looks like they have been pretty steady as of late http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsus/Maps/US10/32.42.-85.-75_eqs.php

BRS also has a youtube video demoing the build.

No problems here. Using froyo on an aria Sent from my HTC Aria using Tapatalk

my fish won't eat them, or the stink bugs or the flys that end up in my tanks. disappointing really. now, my friends koi pond; that's a whole different story...

can't you just chop it up into flak size bits and put that in your fish feeder?

house on fire house on fire, put it out put it out! lol

The last hitchhiker crab I got looked very similar to that and dragged my brand new LTA into a rock and ate it. I had to split the rock open to get him out / try to save the LTA. I say you feed him to a mantis.

Nice article. Thanks for sharing. In the addendum of the study, they explained they contacted tunze and ecotec about the study and were informed that Tunze: ..."confirmed our results. On further discussion with Tunze we do not feel the errors were deliberate attempts to mislead, but rather their misguided faith in theoretical calculations that often do not translate well into real world application and use. In light of these finding Tunze is working to remedy the situation. For any resolution on how Tunze will address this please refer to Tunze's website for more information." Regardless of the misconceptions / missunderstandings by a vendor, I think what's being demonstrated here is essentially the difference between a ducted fan and a non-ducted fan. While I haven't pulled a tunze or vortec apart, I have seen them both up close and they look to me to represent both styles of fan. Ducted Fans essentially, as the fan blade turns, it creates a negative pressure wake behind it that is filled as the blade moves around. The water filling the pressure void has momentum and keeps moving forward in what ever direction it was moving in. In a non-ducted fan, this momentum is mostly allowed to continue in the direction it started in; much of it is sent outward (away from the axis of rotation). So while water is still moving a great deal, there is not much thrust from it in comparison. Hence the wider dispersion angle, but shorter stream (the velocity is lost in the dispersion angle) in the video and graphs. In a ducted fan, the water cannot move away from the axis of rotation and is forced to move along the axis of rotation, capturing more of the energy and channeling it into a single direction. Hense the narrower dispersion angle and longer stream in the video and graphs. ducted fan = good for transporting water across a distance non-ducted fan = good for turbulence in and around the fan. I don't think either is greater, unless you are looking for a specific application, and you would probably benefit from having both for a general application. It's kind of like the difference between a flood light and a mag light. One is good for lighting up the room your in (the floodlight), the other will shoot light down a hallway.

looks normal to me. I had a hammer frag that started w/ 3 heads then grew to 30-40 heads (almost a volley ball) over 3 years before my tank crashed. i've got about 10 heads left i think.

sounds all too familiar. 5 years ago, different store, different state; that store is now closed. So what did you buy? How did it go down? Please post your experience in the vendor experience forum. After checking out their website, I have a feeling this is gonna be a good story.

I replace mine when the flow slows down or when they break. I don't have a set schedule for replacement. I do clean them about once a month though.

If you have had the pumps running for a while (years if not a decade or more) I believe this can happen. eg: Ever magnetize a paper clip, then use it (w/out the magnet) to pick up other paper clips? How long does that last? Granted these are weaker magnetic fields, but the principle is the same. In the paper clip, the magnet causes the molecules in the paper clip to temporarily realign to produce their own magnetic field. However, due to most of the molecules not being aligned, this falls apart quickly. In the pump, the electromagnet turns the ferrous magnet by reversing the magnetic field over and over again. This has the opposite effect of the paper clip and instead of the molecules in the magnet being realigned to produce a field, the opposite field from the electromagnet pushes the molecules out of alignment. Depending on the field strength of the two magnets, this takes a very long to time to happen as most of the molecules in the magnet are already aligned to produce the magnetic field and this helps to hold them in place and resist demagnetization. However, given enough time, all magnets will demagnetize on their own, but probably not in our life times. However, if the pumps have ever run dry or overheated, this can happen much faster as the additional heat will allow the molecules in the magnet to be realigned easier. If you want to be scientific about it, you should be able to measure the magnetic field strength of the magnets with a volt-meter (multi-meter) by measuring the induced voltage from the magnetic fields across a piece of wire. Then compare that to the reading you get from a new magnet off a new impeller.

how are you going to get water in the fuge? If it's going to be pouring straight down into it, the flow will disturb the sand and make a mess. I'd move the second baffle on the fuge to the other side, cut some holes in it 1/2 way down and lower it to the same height as the other baffle. This will give you a place to let the water crash into the fuge area w/out disturbing the sand bed.

based on my experience repainting almost my entire house after moving in: green board or not, I think that the new wall is gonna soak up paint like a sponge, so I'd get the primer. Paint sticks better to primer and the color shows up better against primer and it will reduce the number of coats you will have to do. Also, primer is much cheaper than paint. just my $0.02

You're gonne need a new pump seal, and you might as well replace the o-ring. I don't know where to get those parts. But, you can get the manual here: http://www.reeflopum...h=1234025421256 It's a funky (probably forgotten) site on their website that I found. If it doesn't work, I saved the image of the manual and can email it to you. I've done this on a hayward pool pump and it's fairly straight forward, but it varies from brand to brand. You basically take the whole thing apart, starting with the impeller housing. Just be extremely care not to bend the drive shaft, even a little bit. That will result in the pump becoming unbalanced and probably fail. You may need a gear puller or similar tool to remove the impeller w/out bending the shaft. unless it just slips off, I wouldn't try to just pull it off by hand or with a wrench. edit: I was curious and looked over the manual and it seams the impeller just screws on to the shaft.

Install was a success. I isolated the outlet under the breaker box by pulling the wires off the outlet and putting them together with some wire nuts. I then ran a 12-2 line from the breaker down to the outlet box and plugged it into the GFCI outlet. Then I had to make a couple trips to home depot to get a breaker that would fit my panel. So irritating. I probably spent more on gas going back and forth than the breaker itself. I had to go with a double 15A breaker as the single 15A breakers wouldn't fit the panel, so now I have an unused 15A breaker which I leave in the off position. So I could run another 15A line someone if I decided to. Also, I didn't have a free spot in the grounding rail, so I shared a spot on the rail with another ciruit. I figured it would be ok, since all the lines share the same rail. If I am out of code, someone, please let me know.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH "In chemistry, pH is a measure of the acidity or basicity of an aqueous solution.[1] Pure water is said to be neutral, with a pH close to 7.0 at 25

that looks like a briarium to me. ime, it's easiest to remove the "infected" rock as scraping it off will never get it all and even a tiny morsel left over will regrow the entire colony, slowly, but even w/out direct light, or flow. Short of drying the rock out or using a brulee torch, I can't seem to kill the stuff. Also, makes ure you get rid of it all. Even the smallest bit will regrow to that size in about a year.

more pics are coming. I've got the tank plumbed and filled now and the pumps are circulating the RO water I filled it with. I'm working on silencing the over flows now. That's a lot of flow coming off my iwaki (It's like tsunami coming over that last baffle) and stopping the slurp is proving time consuming. Also, man that pump is loud. If I can't quiet that thing down, I'm going to have to get rid of it and find a submersible one. Any ideas? But while I am working on that I am in need of salt. I have been using Crystal Sea Bio Assay, but I am considering switching to Brightwell's NeoMarine as I use their chemicals for the rest of my additives with much success. Good, bad, opinions on that?

here you go: http://translation.babylon.com/english/to-italian/# have fun just remember, some things don't translate.

if i remember how to do this correctly it should be this 46.7:52 = x:5 cross multiply 52(x) = 234 solve for x x = 234 / 52 = 4.5g of levamisole in 5g of Prohibit edit: that's assuming concentrations are the same from the 52g product and the 5g product. The label might be helpful in determining that.