Coral Hind

The bottoms of most standard off the shelf tanks are going to be tempered. I would have the tank custom made. The builder could use a thicker bottom plate and would drill the holes for you.

Fast food companies should help fund a project like this. I know last month I was following a car that was burning this stuff and at the first whiff I was craving french fries. Pull into the first Mc Donalds and super sized!

I have two of the 10K's on my 75g and they seem fine. I have been running them for about five months now. Spectrum Specialist is out of Florida but I do think the bulbs are from China. Don't worry, this is one of the few products from China that should have a heavy metal in it. FYI - The bulbs pictured on Air, Water & Ice's website are High Pressure Sodium bulbs and not Metal Halide so don't freak if the bulbs you get look different. I don't know why they have the wrong picture posted.

Thanks for the heads up!

It must have gotten hurt some how, either by fighting, trying to run from something or as mine do push rocks over so their anemone has more room. If it is under the skin their isn't much you can do but to make sure he is unstressed and well fed. Sorry, not much advice without actually seeing it.

When you say, "one up, one down" do you mean one above the other? Because I have only ever seen them as both pointing down or thread up. Here is where I bought my floats at and they have pretty good directions. - AquaHub

Like Jon Lazar stated, the skin offers some degree of resistance. One cut may be deeper then the other or one may be closer to a nerve which allowed you to feel the shock easier. As long as your tank is protected by a GFCI you guys are safe. So suck it up and deal with a little "sting"!

I would unplug the mag 12 and see if you still feel anything. You can open the pump up and check to make sure there are no cracks in the plastic case. I had a rio that cracked inside where the propeller sits once. Depending on the age of the pump the company might be able to help you. It is strange that you only feel it in the tank and not the sump. Since they are connected via pipes full of water they should be about the same potential. Are you touching anything else while you stick your hand in the tank?

Black Mammoth is right on. Typically a GFCI will trip in 25 ms or so at fault currents exceeding 20 to 30mA, they are permitted by UL to take several seconds to trip at fault currents in the 6mA range. Current entering the hand has a threshold of perception of about 5 to 10 mA (milliampere) for DC and about 1 to 10 mA for AC at 60 Hz. So yes you could feel it and not have the GFCI trip. The good thing is your heart does not normally fibrillate until currents reach about 60 mA.

What corals are in this tank? If they are SPS, then I would step it up an hour for a week and then up one more hour for a total of two extra hours. Just my 2 cents.

The demand of what you have in the tank would be a big factor. My four T5's over my LPS/softy tank come on at 2pm and off at 10pm. The lighting over my SPS tank is two T5 actinic on from 12:00-10:30, two 250W MH on from 1pm-10pm,

Not to be a Mr. Negative but I tried a turf scrubber back in the mid 90's and here are the cons I had. Mine was bigger and might have caused more issues then your smaller versions. 1. My tank evaporation was doubled which means more humidity in the house. 2. With the exposed algae came the smell. My fish room smelled like a swamp once the screen became covered. 3. Breeding ground for hair algae which ended up in the tank. I had to use a prefilter on my pump to limit that. I think a properly maintained macro algae in the sump gives you the same end results and it is a lot easier. Just my 2 cents and I applaud you for taking steps to try to improve the tanks water quality.

It maybe just a difference of what someone considers "flying" but I have 60 PSI at my house and the water does not "fly" out of my waste line. It is a steady stream but it is not flying and that is 4 to 1 on a 75 GPD membrane. Now when I open the bypass or flush valve it flies. Just my observation, but the key would be to check your ratios of brine to filtered.

I had one were the flow restrictor was a metal piece screwed into the filter housing and the tubing insterted into it. The current one I have has a restrictor built into the flush valve.

Here are just a few things to think about. I agree with the others that the lower salinity would not have caused the rapid death you saw. Was the temperature close to the same? How much of a water change did you do? If it was only a small portion the salinity difference shouldn't have had a big impact on the tank. With a tank that small a water change should be added slowly and not just dumped in. What was your water source and have you changed the source of water? Going from distilled, tap water, RO/DI water in a large water change can really alter the water chemistry in the tank. Was the mixing container covered and other things like towels free of contaminants? Some airborne contaminant like an air freshner, bug spray or a cleaner could have settled in. I once killed most of a tank because someone used my fish towels to give a flea dip to the dog. It took me a week to figure out what the cause was. Only when I saw her uses the towel a second time did it all click. Was the newly mixed water properly aerated? When the mix is not properly aerated the PH doesn't have a chance to adjust. I hope some of that helps you to figure out what happened.

Does it really matter? Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe.

I have never had any issues with my maroon clowns hurting an anemone. Are you sure you are not being an over protective parent. I would think that unless the anemone is extremely small it should be fine. One option would be to isolate the clowns until the anemone has settled into your tank, maybe a week.

Thanks for sharing the info.

It is "Hockey" not "Hocky". Also, the "I" is capitalized and not written as "i've". Periods help after sentences too. It is Friday! You should be in relaxing mode.

Sorry to hear the bad news. Did you figure out why the refugium overflowed?

I really don't think this guy can give you any accurate advice about your system or what type of worm you have over the phone. It would help us out if you could post some pictures.

I agree with everything mentioned already. The 10% off at a LFS and the savings in items offered for sale in the members section is well worth the $20. But to me the WAMAS member network is priceless. When you have a few thousand dollars worth of stuff in a glass box it is nice to have a network of friends out there. From what I have seen, no matter what the problem is, if you post a need for help, you will have it. When the big storms rolled through earlier in the year, several people lost power and members jumped in offering generators and battery air pumps. Just recently, a member had the corner of his tank separate! Within hours he had offers of help. That sense of security is worth $20 to me.

Great! I will never go to sleep now with that tune in my head. "your techniques are so crazy" "your frags are so amazing"

Dave, I will give these to you so you can use them in your class and/or pass them around to the other teachers. Send me a PM so we can arrange a pickup. I also have two fragments of fossilized coral which I found a few weekends ago if you want them. David

Yes, that is what I have used.