Coral Hind

Glenn, Back in the day I was jealous of your 180, now I'm jealous of the new boat. She looks sweet! What did you name her? David formerly "prevyet"

It looks like a Colt Coral, Cladiella sp.

I agree! I agree with you here also. The grounding probe creates an equipotential environment. Current is going to take the path of least resistance every time. Since it is easier for the current to go around the fish then through the fish, the fish are safe thanks to equipotential. It is just like working on energized lines via chian maille.

Garrett, The "100w widget operating at 100w puts off 100w of heat" statement is what I do not think is accurate. The wattage rating of something is its consumption of electrical power. Just because something uses a certain amount of watts doesn't mean it produces a proporational amount of heat. Wattage consumption depends on how efficient it is and how much energy is lost via resistance and heat production. It also depends on how the heat created is transferred via conduction, convection or radiation. An example would be a 100w infrared lamp and a 100w visible light lamp. The infrared lamp's wavelength induces thermal vibrations in the atomic structure of the item being heated so it is able to heat the air and object greater then what a visible lamp of the same wattage could do. Another example is a 1000W mircowave and a 1000W toaster. The toaster puts off a lot more heat then the microwave. Check out this kids experiment. At the bottom of the page you will see the difference between two 60watt bulbs.

BRK which has already been mentioned has the best selection of parts I think. Pristine Aquariums had some pieces a few weeks ago and they are closer to you.

Instead of explaining or correcting what's been said, I will give you the simple answer. Yes, an increase of wattage of the same types of lamps/ballasts will increase heat via all three forms of heat transfer. I switched from 150W to 250W a year ago over my 75g and there was an increase in heat. It was nothing extreme, just a small noticeable increase. I would not worry so much about the heat but find the one that can give to the growth/color you want for the price.

Were you able to get them to work?

In addition to what Chubakah has already mentioned to you. It depends on what all you have on the circuit. I do not have a GFCI protecting everything for my tanks. Things like powerheads, submerged pumps and heaters should be on one. I do not however have any of my lighting on a GFCI becasue of the nuisance tripping that can happen at strat up. It also helps to split up your power heads, pumps or heaters on at least two different GFCI's so if one trips out you will still have some basic water movement.

Wow, you got electrocuted too! That makes two people on this thread that has died and come back to life.

I totally agree with what Brian said, the bioballs should go. Can install a piece of plexiglass at an angle so the water can gently run down it instead of the balls?

I am sure it had something to do with a difference in the water parameters caused by the water change, like SG, PH, or something like that. If it was starving the decline would be a lot slower and they tend to extend the mantle before the decline to grab more light. I am sure they will be fine after they adjust.

I agree with what everyone suggested on the process of elimination via use of a GFCI. I have had a heater crack before and it did exactly what you have described. If you can't find the problem let me know. I work at NIH in Bethesda and can stop by with a meter and check it out for you. You were electrocuted! Welcome back from the dead!

Is your ballast electronic or magnetic? What are the type/make bulbs you are using? Do you see a small arc, about 1/8" long, between the main electrode and the starting electrode? If it is electronic, unplug it for about 5 minutes and then try. The electronic ballast may need to reset itself.

I got one from you in May 08. I also have Howard's "Dolly" which I think came from you.

I agree with what's already been said and will add two more cautions on lighting. Dont use MH probe start bulbs on a pulse start magnetic ballast, the bulbs can explode. The ballast can also catch fire as the two ignitors tend to fight against each other. Not following the manufacturer's specification voids the UL listing. Voiding the UL listing is against the electrical code and would also void an insurance claim if the ballast catches fire and burns your house down. The best bet is to follow the specs that engineers have already set up. If the ballast could fire more types of bulbs I am sure the manufacturer would have stated that in the specs so they could sell more ballasts.

I also agree. You basically dropped the item off to an escrow and they need to pick it up. If this doesn't have a happy ending, please post their info in the members section so we know who not to deal with or at least go out of our way to deal with.

I had Pristine Aquarium order me a 120 last week. They beat Wally's and Superpets price. Give them a call.

I have been with WAMAS for eight years now and Roozen is constantly a topic of debate on the boards. Personally, they used to be my main LFS for all the reasons that Sikryd mentioned. Half of my fish have come from there. However, since Larry has left the tanks have gone down hill some. Something to remember about Roozen's. The nature of the greenhouse always makes the tanks look worse in the summer compared to winter. Stop back in a few months from now and it will probably look better. He also runs copper in the fish only side so make sure none of that water makes it into your reef tank. None of the fish I have gotten from there has ever died right way from a diasease.

I have read on WWM of natural fission but have not seen it first hand. I would like to see a picture of the base if you can manage one. Please keep us posted.

Would you still recommend these tank?

Does the flexible tubing go back to a shut off valve which should be on 1/2" pipe? If so, you could put a piercing valve in on the supply side of that.

What voltage do they run on?

What are the "balling machines", never heard of that?

Garrett, Do you have the ignitor of the HPS ballast wired into the circuit?

Brian, The 400W radiums are european spec bulbs and require a much higher starting voltage. That is why the pulse start ANSI M135/M155 or an HQI ballast is recommended. Here is a good article by G.E. that explains the difference between the two types of bulbs and how to identify them. It also mentions the law that Bush signed to do away with probe start bulbs. I tried the 20K bulbs for a year and I went right back to the 10Ks. The growth rate for me just stopped. Most Ushio bulbs we see are made in America now or come from Japan, which is where the company is from.