Coral Hind

One more pic would help me out here. An end view shot of the fixture were the wires are going in at. Is there any other wires on the ballast besides the ones shown already?

You turned off your UV to save the pods but I think the filter you installed will end up catching and killing just as many.

I would not recommend testing for open circuit voltage on an eballast. The firing pulse voltage will be several thousand volts, beyond most meter's ranges. You can only test it if you have a 1000pF or larger capacitor inline with the voltmeter's input lead to absorb the pulse and protect the meter. On a core and coil you can check the ballast's open circuit voltage at the socket but only after you disconnect the capacitor.

I run a 9 watt Coralife Turbo Twist on my 75 gallon reef tank. The flow is set at about 50 gph for parasites. I installed it after a big ick outbreak when I first set up the tank. It is not an instant ick cure but it helps break the parasites life cycle. I do not run a quarantine tank so this saves my butt. I did noticed a big difference in how clear my water became after installing it. I recommend them.

Bettas are pretty easy to breed. My setup was not deep, 2 1/2 gallon tank. The male builds a nice bubble nest. When she is ready she will float head up and he will wrap around her and kinda squeeze the eggs out while adding his part. He then puts each egg into a bubble. I then removed her from the tank. It helps to have some kind of a plexiglass baffle inserted into the water surface to prevent the bubbles from popping while removing her. Keep him in there as he maintains the bubble nest and puts fallen eggs back into the bubbles. When the babies hatch from the bubbles remove the male. I fed the fry powered food made just for fry. The water surface must remain calm so the bubbles do not pop. I had no substrate, no filter. Just a floating plant which the male built the egg mass around. Water changes were done slowly and in small amounts with small airline tubing to prevent water movement. I hope this helps some, good luck!

The NEC recommended #14AWG mentioned is for branch circuits and not for fixture wiring which can be smaller. Per 2005 NEC article 402.6 luminaire wiring may be #18AWG. The wire you pick needs to be rated at 600V.

Check the ballast info or with the maker to ensure the ballast is capable of remote mounting. They usally have a maximum distance on the label. The reason is that if the distance is increased the capacitor may not be strong enough. So you may need to change the cap and upsize the wiring. Here is a helpful link. http://www.venturelighting.com/TechCenter/...teMounting.html

No, it is not too old. As mentioned in your other post, core and coils should last about 10 years. The capacitor will be the first part to go. Normal street lights or building wall packs burn the caps out in about three to five years because the bulbs do not get changed when they start to blink. We as reefers change or bulbs often so our caps last a lot longer.

I use a solenoid valve off of a dish washer that I found in a junk yard to feed my R/O unit which empties into my sump. This is operated by a cheap float switch I got off of Ebay which is placed in the sump. There are two tees w/ a ball valve to bypass the solenoid for when I make water changes. I did the same thing at a relatives house but we used a solenoid from the back of a fridge w/ an icemaker. Also a salvage yard find. :D If you do this make sure the wattage rating of the valve does not exceed the float switch you get.

I use clean diagonal cutters or wire cutters. If you have chromed ones it helps with the rusting. My experience is when you mount them vertical they tend to just keep growing straight up without much branching or encrusting. When mounted horizontally several branches will form from the base growing up wards. Looks alot better.

Need some thicker acrylic? :D I have a scrap sheet 57 1/2"x14 1/2" that is 1/2" thick. Free!

Sounds good! Let me know if you need any help when it comes in.

Tony-The bit Chideloh has is mine and I need to get it back so I can drill a tank first. After that you are welcome to it but it is worth the investment to just buy one. I have been drilling tanks since '95 when I worked for a tank manufacturer and have never had a problem. Knock on wood :D

There are three more forums in the WAMAS members section including the "For Sale/For Trade" forum. You would have to join WAMAS to see it. One of the many more benifits for members. Chideloh-his profile says Frederick

Depends on what wattage you have. 400w Radium 20KK were made for euro reactor ballast. Closest thing in the US is the pulse start ballast(ANSI M135). If you are talking about the 250W Radium then the ANSI M80 which is an HQI ballast and also has a starter is recommended. Probe start ballasts can be used but you might see a flicker or have problems starting due to the lower starting voltage. If you haven't bought the ballasts yet check into the electronic ones. I think most will fire both kinds.

Great article, thanks for posting that. I had heard before about the carpets being colored but never the corals. Has anyone seen any local?

Larry is right about the ice expanding. Water expands when hot like most liquids but also expands once it drops below about 36F until it freezes. Check the corners and see if they are pushed apart any from the pressure. If not then you should be alright and LUCKY. :D Use caution removing the ice since glass seems to break easy when cold and don't put any hot water in it to try to melt the ice.

"of all the things that Dr Ron is an expert in... chemistry does not seem to be one of them"-Calfo IO has had a great track record with me. I don't see me changing anytime soon. Here is a great post from Anthony Calfo that sums it up for me. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=161108

I think I have had to much to drink! I am seeing doubles! :D

Scott-How have the efforts been going with the fry?

andrejka-That would be worth posting in the DIY section for us. Your set-up might save some tanks, floors and even marriages.

I knew they had toxins but had no idea how deadly they were. Thanks for the post!

I went to Qatar last summer for over three months. My top off is automated and that is about it. Wife did nothing but feed them. Skimmer was off for the last month because it overflowed and she unplugged it. No water changes or supplements added. I came home to a tank that looked great! The stonies didn't really grow much but the softies were huge. The PH was normal and DKH was at 3 when I got back. I would do a good water change before you go and then again when you get back. Do what Snapper recommended about training the roomies. Leave them the phone numbers for some local reefers or TRT in case something happens and I think your tank will be alright.

That stuff can happen at anytime. I was at a member's house last month and we were all looking at his prop tank when all of a sudden water just starting pouring over the top. It is amazing how a little snail in the wrong place can make such a big mess.

Alberto - I know how you feel I bought a nice Precision Marine reactor from a guy here on the WAMAS board. When I fired it up it too leaked. Pump intake was cracked and a fitting on a union was cracked. Don't feel bad it was an easy fix! :D Snapper - What type of glue or epoxy are you using? I figured the hot glue was a joke but I have never had luck with the marine goop either. How is it working for you?