treesprite

It's for a 48" long tank. I suddenly have expenses I didn't have a week ago, taking up the money I had in my budget to set up this tank. I'm thinking I may need to do some temporary thing that isn't too hard to remove. Im going to use an external box, so I don't need to worry about the added complication of plumbing parts inside of the internal one.

You could dry out and re-cure all your liverock. I had to do that to get rid of some stinging stuff that was growing all over the place. Took me several months but it was worth it to not have to spend hundreds of dollars on new liverock.

Paul's Majano Wand perhaps?

This is the post I was looking for. The search function gave no result for it, and I thought it would be near the last pages of threads, so I looked through about 38 pages of threads (going backwards) to find it. Just looking or cheap overflow ideas. I remembered this thing and am kind of wondering if putting several in a row would work (would have to cut the connecting sides). I like how the box is angled; my last couple glass C2Cs had waterfall effect unless I kept valves adjusted to keep the water high enough in the OF (I had to re-adjust them quite frequently, which was annoying).

Haha. I was looking for some other thread and found this one. I love drilling tanks. I drill everything that can be drilled.

I am going to start over. I forgot I had 4x 49" long 2x4s from a past never-built 120g tank stand project holding up an animal cage, much nicer wood with no obvious flaws other than pet cage smell. They are a darker color, so maybe they are treated wood - I can't remember from that long ago. The reason I put the braces that way was because I want an inch of depth in case I have a little flood in there, rather than have water just come running out of the stand. I know not to rely on screws for support. I have two corner supports for each corner. I actually glued those into their L shapes in advance.

I have put slots in acrylic using a wood burning tool, just melted into it and trimmed off the excess the filed smooth.

What's really funny is that I thought the stuff on my hands from my steering wheel allergy was from stings, because the bumps looked nearly identical and had the exact same instense itching with a stingy/burning feeling. What tipped me off that it wasn't stings, was the spreading. Stings don't spread and increase in number on their own. I would rather have had stings than be allergic to my steering wheel.

I edited the post while you were posting. The wood is is 2x4s. I glued the frame, which is why I couldn't just take it apart.

ItApparently I can no longer tell the difference between a straight 2x4 and one that is warped in 3 different directions. This is the first time I have wood glue when constructing. So of course when I discovered that half the lengths of every side of my base (haven't done the top frame yet) were not in contact with the floor,. The only thing I could think of to do was use a handheld wood planer to try to flatten out enough to prevent wobbling. Did that for about 3 hours. No more wobbling, but the board are still not completely in contact with the floor (sliding a thick piece of paper under then along the length). I put some braces across the flat way, and those are in contact with the floor. The screw board posts are touching the floor, and I'll be screwing through them into my corner supports when I attach them. I really don't want to start over after wasting all that time just trying to flatten things out. Is it okay to not have full contact if the base is not wobbling, given the cross braces and posts are in contact with the floor?

Nice.

If it is not real bad, topical hydrocortisone. If it is too bad for that, oral diphenhydramine. If you are tearing off your skin or getting infected, get prescription for Prednisone. Prednisone will take away the itch almost immediately. I don't like using gloves. If I get stings that are too much for me to tolerate, I go get Prednisone.

Welcome back!

Went ahead and drilled the tank. I only did 2x 1.5" outflow holes (and 2x 1" returns), so I will have to use the external for BA plumbing.

Glass external overflow weighs about 4 lbs. I'm wondering if this is going to be too heavy. It if for a 75g tank. It is made of 14" glass, dimensions 18x6x6, no front wall or top, 3x 1.5" holes. I was going to silicon around the edges, but at minimum will have to put a brace between the tank wall and overflow wall. I'm wondering if that will do it, because I'm not sure I want to use it if I have to build it its own stand. The silicone I'm using is from ASI and is specifically labeled "Aquarium Sealant". Any thoughts on this issue? I can't drill the tank until I know what I'm doing with the overflows.

Wow, I was just looking at this a couple days ago. Looked it up while at Home Depot, turns out Eric Borneman was using it. https://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f53/rectorseal-epoxy-putty-reef-safe-40512.html#/topics/40512?page=1.

Just to clarify, would be more for a small tank. The tiny overflow box on my little 30x18 50g has less space in it than the 1.5" hole conduit box - I'm almost tempted to experiment with it.

Has anyone ever considered - or actually used - PVC conduit boxes as an overflow? They come in every standard PVC pipe size with 2 pipe hoes and the lids can be adjusted to whatever height is needed for the flow desired or protection desired from wandering critters. Just replace the metal screws and paint them black or something that isnt ugly gray. I've been standing here playing with these things in Home Depot. Unfortunately, the 1.5" pipe ones have one of the holes on the bottom. The 1" hole ones have some that just have them on the sides, and some have holes on both endsand the back (so 3 holes) so multiple boxes could be connected.

There have been many times that I have momentarily mistaken a sudden zap or tingle as electricity and then discovered a paper cut, cuticle tear, or other miniscule flesh wound that reacts adversely to submersion in saltwater. I have had real electrical leaks and the feeling is identical. Now when I get that feeling, I examine my hand before I go checking all the electrical devices.

I personally would not do it if there won't be someone to separate the fish back out when the probable aggression starts to happen.

Unfortunately, BRK is way too far. That is where I bought my first bit, and where I got my first tang. Still, too far away. Some people were getting them off of eBay or Amazon, but there are a lot of different vendors and I don't want to just guess which one to trust. I wont be home to work on drilling for a few days, so ordering would be fine.

I can't find one of my bits, and can't remember where people have suggested getting them. Could someone please remind me of vendors? There are some cheap ones online, but I of course don't know the quality. Something that will last about 10 holes without problems would be good . Thanks for the info.

Not good pictures. I had to take one through the lens of my sunglasses. This is without the polarized lenses. The laptop is inside of the tempered tank, so I was looking at the screen through the glass. This is through the polarized lens. I wish I had an untinted polarized lens so the pattern wouldn't look so dark, but the pattern is definitely there. For anyone trying this test, keep in mind that not all tempered glass shows the same pattern, so you might see something different from the stripes.

Thank you for a Non-tempered tank! According to the testing with same laptop and sunglasses, it is not tempered. I was 99.9999% sure that it wouldn't be, because of the fact that it has the tempered sticker on the bottom pane and is an older tank. I think the nonsense of using tempered glass as a substitute without marking those tanks clearly for consumers, didn't start until the Aqueon manufacturer came along (I can't recall exactly, does anyone know if Aqueon is the bought-out AGA?). Well, I checked the 29g Aqueon I bought in winter for the mice... it is not tempered. I've had 2 other 29s in the past many years ago and one was tempered but not the other. I'm not sure of the manufacturer of either of those tanks, but they were from two different sources. I ended up using the unshattered tempered panes for longitudinal sump baffles since I couldn't cut them, which is how I discovered that I like longitudinal baffles much more than traditional.

The front and back were. I didn't check the ends, but I wouldn't have wanted to drill the end anyway. I would have to take picture through my sunglasses. I can give it a try.