DaveS

Check out my HTTR favia here: http://wamas.org/forums/topic/65291-new-stuff-added-meeting-corals-and-some-hardware-for-sale/?p=582078 Also have a beautiful gold striped maroon clown.

Yes, they are eggs. Usually hatch in 8 days. Once the eggs get clear and you see their eyes, they will hatch the following night.

Depending on how we distribute the frags (all at once vs. as they become available), one of the "rules" for the initial group should be that no one can sell or give a frag to anyone until all of the initial group has gotten theirs.

I think we should find out what kind of lighting they are kept under and see who among us has the same. That would be a big factor in selecting the custodian. But still interested!

In!!

I will say this- a few years back. the WAMAS board would get riled up every couple of months or so. Lots of back and forth between sponsors and their supporters. It was mostly related to one vendor sponsor at the time. In the year or so since the vendor sponsor was dropped by the club, it is been very nice and calm around here. Let's try and keep it that way. We have a group of very good and active sponsors. Hopefully everyone will keep playing nice. I don't have any hard numbers but I suspect that fighting among sponsors hurts EVERYONE, members and sponsors alike. A sponsor might get that one extra sale but they probably lose untold future sales by turning off members. It's one of those things where no one really wins in the end.

Brittany

+1, if you don't need pretty, the 30 sand 50 gallon Pepsi drums are great. They smell like sierra mist or mountain dew for a bit but otherwise fine for mixing/storing water. With the white Pepsi drums, a Sharpie serves as a great way to get those numbers on the side!

Beetlejuice Beetlejuice Beetleju...

Yup. He's got a long and storied history but unfortunately most of it has been archived/hidden now that he is no longer a sponsor.

Hey guys, just got configuration from the school that the tank can be there year round with air conditioning. They will have staff there year round to help with the upkeep so this takes out most of the burden with sustaining a tank at the school. I'll throw out again a request for anyone willing to donate a 75-120g tank. Hopefully someone will be interested in helping and getting a tax deduction. If not, we can explore the fundraising options that others have generously offered to facilitate. Thanks!

auto correct is making this thread confusing...

Hi everyone, what do we currently have (as a club and among members) in the way of tanks available for donation to a school. My wife casually mentioned how we do school tanks in front of my kids principal and he lit up like a kid at Christmas. He said he had a hard time growing up choosing between being a teacher and a marine biologist. . Anyways, it's a great school with top notch staff so I think the tank will be treated well and the students will greatly benefit. I'm thinking something between a 90-120 would be a decent size. I know we have lots of generous members who will donate equipment and livestock. But for now, I'm trying to nail down the tank part so they can decide on location and other logistics. Requests for supporting stuff will come shortly after. Thanks all!

Even easier:

That crazy driver all the way down 95 was you? I left Saturday at 10am and didn't get past Richmond until 3. Rolled into tpa at 5am this morning.... +1 on the lfs recommendations.

Looks like the rubber bumper fell off when you were cleaning it. It's designed to prevent the impeller from spinning the wrong direction.

I literally wouldn't still be in the hobby if it wasn't for this. I have the wood hammerhead one with the Easy blade scraper that glues on. What used to take an hour takes 2 minutes now. I take me less time to do the actual cleaning that to attach the blade, drop it in the tank and fish it back out when done. I'm lazy so without it would mean less frequent tank cleaning, nasty looking tank and eventually quitting the hobby. Felt spacer is a good idea- clean the outside glass while scraping the inside! I have also found that if you use some of that glass buffing compound and keep the outside glass polished, the magnet slides easier and requires less arm strength. If your magnets aren't too strong this may not be noticeable there is a difference that the wife may notice.

If you want it as a frag tank, hook it into the DT. This way you only need to dose one place and you can transfer corals back/forth between tanks easily as you figure stuff out. If you want it as a QT tank, don't hook it into the DT. You will use less chemicals IF you are only treating the frag tank. However, at this stage in the game, if you are getting coral cooties, they are probably in your DT already. Frag tank/QT tank- 2 different things. Nothing says a tank has to have a sump. If you decide later that you want to QT, you can always disconnect the return to the main sump and put a heater/powerhead in the tank itself to run for a while.

Your fish tank is just an transparent tub....