Almon

My Red Coris Wrasse eats bristle worms. That one in the cup is cute. They get a lot bigger....

It's in the basement of the Commerce building, next the to White House.

This was the tank four (4) years ago. the Heliopora is in the lower right corner, in the shadow.

Hi AlanM, Welcome. It's probably been a year and a half since I've been there. I've donated two corals to the WAMAS sponsored tank. A large Hydnophora and this Heliopora. I'm not sure if either coral is still there...

Dave, what T5 bulbs have you used? And what differences have you noticed? Which do you prefer?

The red coris wrasse hides and sleeps in the sand.

Yep. I went for five years without understanding why I could not keep any small fish. I add a small fish, see once or twice, and never again. Stomatopods generate a disinctive clicking sound (when they are eating your hermits and snails).

A blow torch in your tank? There's probably a better way....You probably should not pour boiling water over it either. You might try simply drying out the rock in the sun for few days...

Don't feed the tank or it's inhabitants.

I would bet that it's always been like that and you have only recently noticed it. I would bet there is no problem. I think this is more concerning. The water level should not rise unless it's been raining inside the house. It sounds like the water flow through the overflow is restricted. Do I hear water splashing on the floor?

I think most problems with zoas outside are related to light and flow. Pests, parasites, and the pox also cause problems. But maybe they are just resting....

How did you train yours? Reverse psychology? Positive reinforcement?

Light and nutrients

I think various Tangs will eat it. It doesn't grow in my main tank but was out of control in smaller clown tanks. My main tank has a large Blue Hippo and a large Tennenti (Lieutenant) tang, some clowns, a large coris wrasse, a large hermit crab, and some snails. I think it's the tangs that graze on the bubble algae.

Is that that tank and stand?

We all participated in unsafe coral fragging when we were newbies. Then we got red bugs or flatworms and learned....the hard way.

Irritants will cause poor extension such as fish and parasites, and don't forget the small yellow crustacean with a red patch on his head; affectionately known as redbug.

It's likely due to an insufficient flow of water from the Sump to the Display Tank. Increased flow into the tank will increase flow out of the tank and through the U-tube which will prevent a build-up of bubbles. If you can't replace the return pump with a stronger one, then try Bruce's most excellent suggestion.

Yes, a banded coral shrimp is a tastey treat for lots of fish. It's not aggressive towards any. I have a Coris Wrasse that loves to eat bristle worms.

zoom, it's important to keep the water in your larval tanks as clean as possible, so don't dump the rotifer culture into it. 1 - Your rotifer culture appears to be alive because there are no dead dots on the bottom 2 - A rotifer culture takes several weeks (when starting new) for the density needed to feed the lavae while maintaining your culture 3 - Buy a rotifer screen for harvesting the rotifers from the rotifer culture 4 - Your rotifer culture is green because it is a new culture and does not have the rotifer density to eat the phytoplankton quickly I strongly suggest you get some rotifers from someone else if you want to try to raise this batch. Fazio might be able to help. Otherwise, just wait until the density of the rotifer culture is sufficient to feed the larvae while continuing to keep the culture going.

That's probably all you will see without a microscope.

I think the many reasons they split are typically stress related.

Increased alkalinity will stabilize pH. Do you measure alkalinity?

Both bulbs are wired to the same ballast, so if one bulb malfunctions, they both stop working. The good bulb will light up for a brief moment when turned on, before the ballast shuts it down. But it's difficult to see. Replace the bulbs.

Flatworm Exit works well. I recommend two doses, one week apart. Most inverts will die if not removed.