Drilling a tank.

[achansek]

I've confirmed that my tank glass isn't tempered. I want to take the next step to drill it but am scared that I will crack it.

Am looking either for tips to do it right (planning to get drill bit from jehmco). Would also appreciate if someone would like to help me with the process.

PS. It is for a freshwater discus tank.

[treesprite]

Use some kind of template  when you drill, to help you stay on the correct spot and to prevent the drill bit from wandering off the initial groove. Drilling isn't difficult, but your hand and arm might get tired.

[AlanM]

If you want to wait, maybe someone can help you drill it at the October meeting.  I’ve never cracked one, but there is always a small risk.

 

what size hole or holes do you need?

[ImGoingCoastal]

Might want to put where you're located in case you're near someone willing to help.

Also, go slow and keep the spot wet. Not sure if those are requirements but it's worked for me.

[YHSublime]

Go slow, keep it wet. Put a towel on the opposite end of the tank on the inside so the glass you drill out doesn’t fall into, and crack your tank. Get a template. Drilling is easy, you just gotta do it!


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[achansek]

@ImGoingCoastal I am located at College Park, MD. 

@AlanM The details of October meeting are on the website? I am looking to have them all uniformly at 1". It might be overkill but it ensures that all PVC fittings are readily available.

@YHSublime & @treesprite Thank you. I will look into templates. 

Edited September 30, 2019 by achansek

[ImGoingCoastal]

My glass-holes kit came with a template cut out of wood. Was quite helpful in keeping the bit from wandering.

[achansek]

@ImGoingCoastal can I know where (online/store) you bought it from?

[ImGoingCoastal]

A company that has since gone out of business but you should just be able to get plywood and use a drill bit for it.

[AlanM]

Yes, meeting details are posted.

 

1” doesn’t seem like overkill for drains depending on what you have planned.  It’s biggish for a return pipe in general, but maybe not for your tank size.

 

You will need to make sure to match the outer diameter of your bulkhead threads with the bit size.  Different bulkheads differ a bit on the size because the quoted size is for the interior pipe hole, not the threads.  Also, make sure the rubber washer goes on the flange side, not the nut. 8)

 

The good news on sizes is that there is a bit of slop in the size because of the rubber seal.  

 

BRS sells bulkheads and the bits that match them which is convenient.

[AlanM]

For what it’s worth, I don’t use a template.  I like to grind a groove in there using the bit with the drill held at an angle, then I slowly rotate the drill up perpendicular.  A good variable speed drill is essential.  Do it slow.  

 

I also make a little dam around the area out of plumbers putty and fill it with water.

[ReefAddict]

I follow AlanM’s method starting at an angle and transitioning to perpendicular.  Also, let  the drill do the work, don’t get impatient and apply too much pressure you’ll end  up with chips or a crack.

[treesprite]

5 hours ago, ReefAddict said:

I follow AlanM’s method starting at an angle and transitioning to perpendicular.  Also, let  the drill do the work, don’t get impatient and apply too much pressure you’ll end  up with chips or a crack.

 

Usually the same for me, but when I drilled holes recently for an external overflow box, the bit kept wandering which led me to use a template when I did the holes in the tank. I was going to help someone else practice drilling, but  I didn't because I am inclined to believe the wandering had something to do with the bits themselves.  I never experienced bad wandering like that, and I've done a lot of drilling over the years.  The bits I used were part of a new but cheap set off off eBay. I wonder if the particle sizes in the diamond coating are different/more or less consistent in size depending on quality of the bit (would inconsistency in particle size cause the bit to move irregularly at times).

 

Something I do when the shape/size of the tank will allow it, is to drill from the inside of the tank. I put a wood board down under the glass, covered by a towel and then paper towels. There are less vibrations, I can drill while sitting on the floor, and any water that escapes the putty dam either stays inside the tank (if a rimmed tank) or gets soaked by the towels. I do have to be careful about drilling into the towels, and so far have never had a problem. The sound of the drilling changes as the cutting gets deeper, so you should really pay attention to the sound.

 

 

Edited October 1, 2019 by treesprite

[realypk]

Definitely get a good bit, and a good drill. I used an 18v Ridgid drill with diamond coated glass bit I got from BRS. I never drilled glass before and drilled my 75gallon with 3 holes successfully.

 

Definitely use highest speed setting, use plenty of water (it will make a sloppy mess) and once you start going do not apply pressure let the weight of the drill do all the work. 1 Hole used about 75% of my 4amp hour  battery. It will make a squealing noise like no other and that's normal, earplugs are not a bad idea. 

 

Also I built a wall fort out of playdough to contain the water so it would never get dry. Dry = heat and heat = bad. I also used a drill guide to keep it in place that i got on BRS (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/glass-drill-bit-guide-thk.html). It worked quite well. I built the playdough fort around it, play dough is cheap and easy, 2 standard tubs is what you'll need.  Keep that drill steady and level at least that's how I did it, if the drill pushes water away from hole stop for a moment to let water come back or fill in more water. DONT EVER LET IT GET DRY. a little chipping arround the edges is ok thats what the gasket is for. I put a level block on the back of the drill to ensure I was going level. It took a long time to make that hole and the glass thickness is impressive.

 

Note on tightening the overflow connector/bulkheads. Dont overdo it, get it nice and tight but don't fully tighten get it hand tight then use your wrench to go 1/4 a turn. If you see some water seepage thats ok, do a tenth of a turn. Dry it a few times and if it continues do another tenth turn. Keep doing till seeping stops, dry multiple times and wait a bit because you may just be seeing old residual seepage. A super slow trickle is not the end of the world... the salt will in many cases dry and form a seal.... had this happen in a 10gallon i drilled and I could not stop the super slow drip.... eventually it stopped on its own.

 

Tightening bulkheads is the most dangerous part of this whole process.

Edited October 4, 2019 by realypk

[achansek]

Thanks a lot @realypk for the detailed description. It really helps.

[Jon Lazar]

I always recommend folks use the heavy duty gray schedule 80 bulkheads.  The ABS bulkheads are cheaper, but it's not uncommon IME for them to crack with routine use.

 

I point this out now because the heavy duty bulkheads require a slightly wider hole.

[realypk]

@achansek Happy to share my experience! If you have questions just ask! Let us know how it goes. Also I agree using schedule 80, just know those suckers are stronger than the glass so go easy and slow on tightening as you'll break the glass way before you ever break the bulkhead!

Edited October 15, 2019 by realypk

[achansek]

I ended up getting a used 120g drilled tank instead. In hindsight, it's a lot more work that I thought even if it is a drilled tank :/. Replumbing, resealing, the whole works.

[YHSublime]

It's always a lot of work, new or used. 

[achansek]

Very true! Now am researching articles on resealing the tank.

[treesprite]

I have a used 120 in the junk room. I was cleaning and stripping old silicone simultaneously, when the cleaning made me aware of scratches I had no clue were there when I purchased the tank. I had to ask myself if the tank was worth the re-sealing effort. Stopped doing the work, stuck the tank in the junk room and it has been sitting there for a couple years. I already had bought a few things of black silicone, so I've just been using it for other stuff like plumbing, making my external overflow box, and repairing air beds. 

 

If you are going to put new silicone, you have to get every tiny trace of the old surface stuff off without cutting into or damaging the stuff holding the panes together. You need a few very fresh sharp razor blades and rubbing alcohol. If you are just worried about aesthetics, you might want to just trim loose stuff so algae doesn't grow under it and then let coralline grow over the stuff (I happen to like a lot of the pink, but have always had so many asterinas that they kept the tanks free of it).

Edited December 5, 2019 by treesprite

[Jon Lazar]

On 12/3/2019 at 2:47 PM, achansek said:

Very true! Now am researching articles on resealing the tank.

 

I used a heavy duty silicone adhesive to fix portions of my tank.  After lots of research, I selected Momentive RTV 108.

 

It's much stronger than the GE silicone you buy at Home Depot.  Not so important if you're just touching up the cosmetic parts, but I'd use the RTV 108 if you reseal a panel.

 

 

[treesprite]

The silicone I've been using is made by Aquarium Sealants, Inc. It is specifically for aquariums and the tube says it has been "tested to withstand constant stress on aquariums up to 750 gallons". Bought it off of eBay, both black and clear.