Algae problems...

[mari.harutunian]

-Running GFO in a Filter sock in a nano tumbler so phosphate is unreadable

-mg more than 1600

-ca 480

-alk 5.6 dKh

-Nitrate less than 5 more than 0 (best its ever been)

-tank is 4 months old since cycling

-use a cheap rodi system and fluval declorinator

I have small spots of hair algae on the back wall and on a mariculture zoa rock and, ironically, my magnetic algae scraper. There is red cyano everywhere and green, film-like algae too.

 

 

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[mari.harutunian]

Things I should account for:

-idk tds in rodi water

-how much phyto I should dose for feather dusters, coral, and the porcelain crab, rather than approximating

-too little live rock? 25 lbs of pukani(started dry) for a 36 gallon tank that is 27 gallon display and 9 gallon back panel, only have a pair of clowns and small sixline

-I don't feed fish often but not really on a schedule

-tunze 9001 skimmer works amazingly

-i have a hard time separating detritus from the sand(get rid of it?its aragonite) but regularly remove algae

 

 

 

 

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[molcott]

may want to try a shorter photoperiod

[dpassar12]

Are you doing small regular water changes? Your DKH is a low, 7-8 would be closer to normal levels without SPS. Your Mag is a bit high 1200-1300 is considered normal. Are you dosing? Your Calc/Mag/Alk levels are an odd combination of low high and normal. With a 36 gal tank I would think that small consistent water changes weekly or every 2 weeks should cover all of your Calc/Alk/Mag levels. 

What is your flow like? Define "cheap" RODI system? Without checking your TDS how do you know to add the dechlorinator? A good RODI system, IMO is the most important piece of equipment. I use a BRS system and have never had an issue with water. I do test my TDS before and after my resin. You should be able to use the cheapest BRS system and then rule out any water issues. I am sure their are other RODI systems that work. I have only used BRS.  
 

If it were my tank this is what I would do right now.

 

#1 Get a good RODI system assuming your current one is bad. You should not need to use a dechlorinator. 

 

#2 Stop feeding your feather dusters, no need. I have several feather dusters 4+years and have never fed them. Stop feeding your corals until you get this under control. Unless you have non-photosynthetic corals I would not feed them period. If you have Non-Photo corals lightly spot feed them 1x a week only after you get this under control. Basically your algae issues will kill your corals before they starve anyway. 

#3 Reduce your photo period. Again the algae will kill your coral before lack of light,. It's not sunny everyday in nature. Your corals will be fine.  What lights are you using and what setting?

#4 Using a turkey baster manually remove as much cyano and algae until you get your tank under control. 

 

#5 What are you feeding your fish and # times per day? Try a small amount 1x day until you get this under control. 

List anything you are adding into your tank, ie additives, dosing, also what food are you using etc... Something is adding nutrients your system. 

[zygote2k]

If rO/DI system has prefilter, carbon, DI, membrane, then it's fine. A TDS meter is required too. cheap or expensive should have same parts on it.

stop feeding phyto, manually remove all algae, stop using dechlorinator.

[hlem]

I would test the new saltwater that you are using for your WC.

 

I had algae issue before and everything seems normal... but I realize my rodi water filters hasn't been changed in a long time... tested the new water and there was ammonia... changed all the stages and everything cleared up in 2-3 weeks of water changes

 

Also reducing light period helped a lot too. Especially if you don't have high demanding corals.

Edited February 2, 2017 by hlem

[WheresTheReef]

I have a handheld HM Digital TDS meter you can have. Going to the WAMAS meeting?

[AlanM]

You may have no measurable phosphate because your algae crop is using it all up.

[Origami]

If rO/DI system has prefilter, carbon, DI, membrane, then it's fine. A TDS meter is required too. cheap or expensive should have same parts on it.

stop feeding phyto, manually remove all algae, stop using dechlorinator.

+1. Especially the phyto. Likely you don't need it and you're just pouring nutrients into the water.

 

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[mari.harutunian]

If rO/DI system has prefilter, carbon, DI, membrane, then it's fine. A TDS meter is required too. cheap or expensive should have same parts on it.

stop feeding phyto, manually remove all algae, stop using dechlorinator.

 

I stopped phyto and declorinator. I thought declorinator was normal. Came with the tank and was told to use it. The rodi system has all the filters. Tank is only 4 months old but could the filters be done? TDS Meyer is next on the shopping list and I just removed MASSIVE amounts of algae in a pretty clever way. Took my fish net and turkey baster, sucked up all the algae on the rocks and in the water then squirted it into the fish net. Worked like a charm. I'm also on a once per day feeding schedule now.

 

 

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[johnnybv]

What kind of lights?  How old??

[mari.harutunian]

What kind of lights? How old??

2 AI hydras from 2013- they have Four groups of LEDs each. It is four months old since cycling now.

 

 

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[mari.harutunian]

Are you doing small regular water changes? Your DKH is a low, 7-8 would be closer to normal levels without SPS. Your Mag is a bit high 1200-1300 is considered normal. Are you dosing? Your Calc/Mag/Alk levels are an odd combination of low high and normal. With a 36 gal tank I would think that small consistent water changes weekly or every 2 weeks should cover all of your Calc/Alk/Mag levels.

 

What is your flow like? Define "cheap" RODI system? Without checking your TDS how do you know to add the dechlorinator? A good RODI system, IMO is the most important piece of equipment. I use a BRS system and have never had an issue with water. I do test my TDS before and after my resin. You should be able to use the cheapest BRS system and then rule out any water issues. I am sure their are other RODI systems that work. I have only used BRS.

 

If it were my tank this is what I would do right now.

 

#1 Get a good RODI system assuming your current one is bad. You should not need to use a dechlorinator.

 

#2 Stop feeding your feather dusters, no need. I have several feather dusters 4+years and have never fed them. Stop feeding your corals until you get this under control. Unless you have non-photosynthetic corals I would not feed them period. If you have Non-Photo corals lightly spot feed them 1x a week only after you get this under control. Basically your algae issues will kill your corals before they starve anyway.

 

#3 Reduce your photo period. Again the algae will kill your coral before lack of light,. It's not sunny everyday in nature. Your corals will be fine. What lights are you using and what setting?

 

#4 Using a turkey baster manually remove as much cyano and algae until you get your tank under control.

 

#5 What are you feeding your fish and # times per day? Try a small amount 1x day until you get this under control.

 

List anything you are adding into your tank, ie additives, dosing, also what food are you using etc... Something is adding nutrients your system.

1. Stopped the dechlorinator and I love BRS but those systems aren't cheap... guess that's next on the list. Just bought an ATO.

 

2.stopped the phyto and won't coral feed

 

3.photo period is now at 8hrs per day(sound about right?)the lights are 2 AI hydras from 2013 4 groups of LEDs each. The lights run at 60% max.

 

4. Did this and it worked great

 

5. I did a large amount of omega flake food every 2 days now at 1x per day small pinch

 

I have added Kent supplemental nutrients once every month, but only in the last 2 months. I have fed mysis, reef roids, Krill, and brine shrimp before, but not often. Nothing likes the reef roids so I don't anymore. Phyto was probably the main addition of nutrients. Like 1 tbs every 4 days.

 

 

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[mari.harutunian]

You may have no measurable phosphate because your algae crop is using it all up.

Just removed tons of the algae. I'll test the water again.

 

 

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[mari.harutunian]

Just removed tons of the algae. I'll test the water again.

 

 

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Still not detectable

 

 

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[WheresTheReef]

I stopped phyto and declorinator. I thought declorinator was normal. Came with the tank and was told to use it. The rodi system has all the filters. Tank is only 4 months old but could the filters be done? TDS Meyer is next on the shopping list and I just removed MASSIVE amounts of algae in a pretty clever way. Took my fish net and turkey baster, sucked up all the algae on the rocks and in the water then squirted it into the fish net. Worked like a charm. I'm also on a once per day feeding schedule now.

 

 

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If your RODI system is working correctly, then there is no need for a declorinator. Declorinator is for ammonia and metals etc. that are dissolved in the water. This should up with a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter in the output of the RODI system. BTW, there is no need to spend money on another RODI system if this one is working.

 

I change out my sediment and carbon filters once a year. My RO membrane about every 3 years. I currently exhaust my DI about every 6 months. Without testing there is no way of telling if your filters are working as expected. Thought this might be useful 

[mari.harutunian]

If your RODI system is working correctly, then there is no need for a declorinator. Declorinator is for ammonia and metals etc. that are dissolved in the water. This should up with a TDS (total dissolved solids) meter in the output of the RODI system. BTW, there is no need to spend money on another RODI system if this one is working.

 

I change out my sediment and carbon filters once a year. My RO membrane about every 3 years. I currently exhaust my DI about every 6 months. Without testing there is no way of telling if your filters are working as expected. Thought this might be useful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=himXj1MKTLc

Thanks! I'll order a tds meter. There's probably a lot of sediment in this water... there's like a lot of calcium build up in the pipes.

 

 

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[Origami]

Algae will very quickly take up phosphate. That's most likely why your tank measures low. It's the reason algae turf scrubbers are used to clean water naturally.

 

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[Jon Lazar]

I think you've put all the right steps into motion.  Less nutrients and fewer photons into the tank, and manual removal of algae will make the biggest difference.  But it will probably take some time. 

 

I think you're sumpless, right, so no refugium under your tank.  But you could add a refugium above your tank with chaetomorpha to compete with the algae in the display tank.  Chaeto grows quick and it's a clean macroalgae.  Some people make their fuge into a second kind of display tank.  When I say "above", that can be as simple as putting the fuge next to your DT but on a stand that's several inches higher.  Pump water from the DT into the fuge, and let it gravity-drain back into the DT.

 

Good luck!

Edited February 6, 2017 by Jon Lazar

[mari.harutunian]

I think you've put all the right steps into motion. Less nutrients and fewer photons into the tank, and manual removal of algae will make the biggest difference. But it will probably take some time.

 

I think you're sumpless, right, so no refugium under your tank. But you could add a refugium above your tank with chaetomorpha to compete with the algae in the display tank. Chaeto grows quick and it's a clean macroalgae. Some people make their fuge into a second kind of display tank. When I say "above", that can be as simple as putting the fuge next to your DT but on a stand that's several inches higher. Pump water from the DT into the fuge, and let it gravity-drain back into the DT.

 

Good luck!

I actually have dragons breath macro in the display tank. It's quadrupled in size in 4 months... gotta get rid of it at some point.

 

 

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