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pH help


TrueTricia

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I could not have said it better myself.......OK who am I trying to kid, I had to read it a couple times to try and absorb all the different info. 

 

So:

 

-pH should be 7.7 or higher, drops in the night, rises in the day, keep it above that but it will vary.

-Light your refugium at night to raise pH.

-Recalibrate your probe to make sure it is accurate, don't chase numbers......got it!

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.....

Make sure the probe is not fully submerged. Unlike the temperature probe, the pH probe cannot be fully submerged.

 

....

 

I didn't know that the PH probe cannot be fully submerged.  I just started using my brand new one last night.  Seems to be reading fine (8.22).   Should I submerge it half way or just the tip in the water ?   Hope I did not damage the probe by fully submerging it.

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From Apex PM1 Manual -

 

 

pH probes connected to probe modules will be identified as “pHx3”, “pHx4” and so on. The number in the probe name corresponds to the AquaBus address assigned to the probe module.

If not already done, connect the pH probe (must be purchased separately, available from your Neptune retailer) to the port labeled pH/ORP on the PM1. Push the BNC female connector on to the male connector and turn 1⁄4 turn clockwise to lock the connector in place.

 

 

Remove the cap from the pH probe and discard the solution in the cap. All new probes should be rinsed in clean tap water before placing in the aquarium. Place the pH probe in an area with high flow that is continuously wet (not an overflow that may drain dry, for example). Maintain a drip loop in the wire back to the Probe Module.

 

 

WARNING: We do not recommend fully submerging the pH probe as this will cause the probe to fail prematurely.

 

 

 

NOTE: Do not let the tip of the pH probe dry out as damage to the probe will result. If you are not using your pH probe for an extended period of time, make sure the tip is submerged in Probe Storage solution at all times. If storage solution is not available, tap water can be used (RO/DI water should not be used). 

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pH Probe Maintenance, from the Apex PM1 Manual

 

 

PH PROBE MAINTENANCE

pH probes should be periodically cleaned and recalibrated for best performance. It is not recommended to clean the probes unless calibration is to be performed. The period between cleanings is up to the user but typically every 1-3 months is normal. To clean the probe, gently brush the sides and tip of the probe with a soft brush to remove any debris. Rinse the probe in tap water. Soaking the probe in acid (vinegar) or alkali (borax) solution to remove mineral deposits is not typically needed but can be used to try and bring back an old probe that cannot be calibrated. Typical lifespan for a pH probe in aquarium use is 12-24 months. 

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From Apex PM1 Manual -

Why read the Manual ? I have WAMAS :clap:

 

Thanks, I am glad I found this out now, here's hoping 24hrs of it being fully submerged won't do too much damage.

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Why read the Manual ? I have WAMAS :clap:

 

Thanks, I am glad I found this out now, here's hoping 24hrs of it being fully submerged won't do too much damage.

What supposedly happens when you fully submerge the probe is the water will leach into the cable and follow it to the Apex brain and the water will damage that. I would be less concerned about the probe itself.

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pH Probe Maintenance, from the Apex PM1 Manual

 

It was used, but Alan had kept it submerged in the 4.0 solution/bottle.  So it did not dry out. 

 

I think the fresh air is helping, even if I don't pretend to understand that.  Yesterday at 11am it was 7.68.  Today at 11 it's 7.79.  So maybe that really was the problem. 

 

My lights don't come on until the late afternoon.  I want them to be on in the evening when I'm home and not while I'm at work. 

 

It's not fully submerged either, although the electrical interference may be true.  I didn't have a mount to keep them (pH and temperature) from being submerged (I did read the manual), so I made something temporary, but it means that they're right next to each other.  Tonight I'll bring home some more zipties and figure something else out until I get a probe mount. 

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The PH and Temp Probes are both low voltage. I wouldn't really worry about them next to each other, but you don't want a power line for the skimmer for example running next to the ph probe.

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A few things can affect the ph probe. Stray voltage in the tank can. You can test this by putting some of your tank water in a cup and measure it to see what the probe reads. If it's a CO2 issue (windows helping...), you can test this by aerating the cup inside for a little while with an air stone and then measure. Then do the same with the cup outside the house and measure again. Regardless of that, I would say to test the water with a tradtional ph test because many times probes are just wrong. Also something to note is that probes do NOT last long. I would estimate from 6-9 months, sometimes up to a year, but they DO go bad. And finally as others have said, the important thing with probes and ph monitoring is to watch the trend. However usually when the trend changes is when it's time to change the probe :)

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I could not have said it better myself.......OK who am I trying to kid, I had to read it a couple times to try and absorb all the different info. 

 

So:

 

-pH should be 7.7 or higher, drops in the night, rises in the day, keep it above that but it will vary.

-Light your refugium at night to raise pH.

-Recalibrate your probe to make sure it is accurate, don't chase numbers......got it!

 

I don't have a fuge right now, so I know that's not an issue.  At least one thing I know it's NOT

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+1. I don't think I have run a ph test in 5 years. Unless I'm using a ph controller for a calcium reactor.

I do monitory my pH but don't get too spun up about the reading. The trend on my pH graph tells me if my alkalinity is staying stable or if I need to supplement. I don't worry so much about the absolute reading, but look more at the trend. I used to be able to tell, for example, when my kalkwasser reactor needed refreshing because the pH would trend downward over several days as the last of the kalk was used up. So, pH readings have value - but maybe not for the obvious reasons that most people would think. In similar fashion, the reading can also flag other unusual circumstances meriting your attention. So, I would not totally discount the value of a pH meter for this reason alone. However, I would similarly advise caution on relying singularly upon the reading when considering changes. 

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If you are able to open the window every morning and every night for 30 min or so ( if it is nice out)  you will get rid of that some of that stale apartment/condo air that is running through everyone's unit

 

 

Open your windows between 7:45p -8:00p tonight and you should get a GOOD breeze! Just make sure you are there to close them for the storm. :blink:

Edited by DuffyGeos
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I am also monitoring my PH for Kalk and Alk. If my PH is lower than normal for 2-3 straight days that tell me it is time to add more kalk to my kalk reactor.

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I think pH is important but not important enough to continuously monitor it. When initially starting maintenance, I will test it and record it only as a baseline measurement for future use. If all is going well in the tank- fish/coral/algae growing, then I won't test for it. If problems are occurring, then I'll test for it. My pH kit of preference is a bottle of pHenol Red.

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throw the pH meter away and go about your business. I stopped worrying about pH and I haven't had any more problems.

+1 on this. I have never tested the PH on my tank ever. The only things I test for are ALK and CAL.

 

Occasionally I check my MAG. I have done it this way for 15 years and have never had an issue.

 

The main thing is to clean the skimmer every week and a water change once or twice a month and not to over feed.

 

New gadgets are cool, but chasing the "numbers" can drive you insane.

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If you are able to open the window every morning and every night for 30 min or so ( if it is nice out) you will get rid of that some of that stale apartment/condo air that is running through everyone's unit

 

 

Open your windows between 7:45p -8:00p tonight and you should get a GOOD breeze! Just make sure you are there to close them for the storm. :blink:

I'll be in North Carolina in about 10 minutes so I won't be opening/closing anything. But I do find it fascinating that it worked.
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+1 on this. I have never tested the PH on my tank ever. The only things I test for are ALK and CAL.

 

Occasionally I check my MAG. I have done it this way for 15 years and have never had an issue.

 

The main thing is to clean the skimmer every week and a water change once or twice a month and not to over feed.

 

New gadgets are cool, but chasing the "numbers" can drive you insane.

I'm enjoying the learning that I'm able to do by seeing these measurements. My ph has been on the low end whenever I've tested it. I just didn't realize how low. And while I'm not going to do anything drastic, if I can create a more ideal setting for growth I definitely want to!
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Forget the fish, all this talk about outside air making such a difference in PH re enforces my paranoia about having fresh air in the house !

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Ti the outside? I don't think that will work in an apartment lol

 

My plan is to take a little piece of 2x2, put some weather stripping on the top and bottom, shut the window on it to sandwich it in there, drill a hole through it, stick some tubing in it and caulk it in and run the tubing to my skimmer air intake.

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My plan is to take a little piece of 2x2, put some weather stripping on the top and bottom, shut the window on it to sandwich it in there, drill a hole through it, stick some tubing in it and caulk it in and run the tubing to my skimmer air intake.

That's a great plan actually and would work in an apartment even. I'm not sure I want tubing running that far in my place though. What about temperature? Air in the winter time is going to be freezing and at some point would freeze that line?
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