linkfalcon January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 What level of nitrate in a reef tank is to high? And what are the best ways to lower it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 That depends on what you are trying to keep. LPS? SPS? Zoas? SPS are the most sensitize and most sps keepers aim for nitrates as close to zero as possible, or just a little higher if you are trying to keep within the redfield ratio. Personally, my zoas and other softies / LPS can tolerate between 5 - 10 without a problem, but the sps are not happy. Mine are currently at 2 after being at 15-20 for months. Two best ways to lower nitrates are macro algae and water changes. I have boosted the lights on my fugue and that seems to have helped a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Ward January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 Nitrates feed algae growth and are the result of bacteria converting ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate. Nitrite is really bad and must always be 0. Ammonia should also always be 0. Nitrates, as Sharky mentioned, can fluctuate but most inverts can only handle so much of it. SPS need it to be around 0 while others can tolerate more. Macro algae will help to consume nitrates and adding a fuge with macro algae will likely help. However, it will not necessarily solve the root of the issue and prevent other algae blooms. Algae blooms (especially HA) is usually the result of nitrates getting out of control. You must remove the detritus from the tank to minimize the amount of ammonia available to be converted to Nitrite and then to Nitrate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmerek2 January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 SPS in tank or LPS? I know SPS undetectable is best there is also a minimum cut off but most people have enough fish that it's not a problem. I had nitrate problem when I first bought tank. I can def tell a difference in growth and corals look more plump now. My tank went from 80ppm to undetectable very quickly. I added large CHEATo growing refugium with strong 3watt LEDs, upped skimmer size, stopped over feeding, added more lighting to increase photosynthetic nitrate eating bacteria, and upped water change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Rhoads January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 I agree with everything posted above, and would only add one thing. Deep sand beds are another way to reduce nitrates. If you google them you will find a wealth of information as well as debate (sometimes heated) as to their implementation and efficacy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkfalcon January 2, 2014 Author Share January 2, 2014 It's a mixed reef Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sen5241b January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 There has always been a big emphasis on nitrates and not enough on phosphates. I've seen tanks with nitrates of at least several parts per million and the corals seemed to be fine. If phosphates reach 0.25 ppm your corals will get sick fast. Most problems with Cyano are due more to phosphates than nitrates. This is why you would not even consider having acropora or some other stonies unless you have good phosphate control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sen5241b January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 I agree with everything posted above, and would only add one thing. Deep sand beds are another way to reduce nitrates. If you google them you will find a wealth of information as well as debate (sometimes heated) as to their implementation and efficacy. Deep sand beds are fine until you accidentally stir them up and wipe out your entire tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 linkfalcon, what are your nitrates at now? Phosphates? I also agree with sen5241b. Corals are much more tolerant of high nitrate than high phosphate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul b January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 Mine runs about 35, no problems yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaguy January 2, 2014 Share January 2, 2014 Mine stays between 10 and 30 with a ton of water changes. I have a ton of sps doing good so far. It's a mixed reef but a lot of sps. I do plan to incorporate a fuge somehow if the recently added bio pellets don't do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkfalcon January 3, 2014 Author Share January 3, 2014 All others are zero Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mling January 3, 2014 Share January 3, 2014 Is there a Nitrate level that is too high for fishes ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 January 3, 2014 Share January 3, 2014 I think fish can withstand up to 30 or 40… but I'll wait for the FOWLR people to weigh in… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkfalcon January 4, 2014 Author Share January 4, 2014 What the easiest to lower it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallreef January 4, 2014 Share January 4, 2014 I think fish can withstand up to 30 or 40… but I'll wait for the FOWLR people to weigh in… depending on the fish, im my previous tank with triggers...usually around 75-100 what can you do to lower it? there are many options... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 January 4, 2014 Share January 4, 2014 What the easiest to lower it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 - DECREASE your bioload (remove some fish) 2 - Get a BIG skimmer 3 - Water changes Those are the top 3. If you want to take it to another level you can carbon dose, but you asked the easiest ways to lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkey18 January 5, 2014 Share January 5, 2014 I would add that one of the easiest ways it to grow macro algae. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lnevo January 5, 2014 Share January 5, 2014 (edited) Another EASY option is to not feed as much. Some more easy ones to do, but some of the oft neglected maintenance, like cleaning bubble traps, return pump pre-filters, vacuum out detritus from your sump, siphon sand bed (little at a time), blow detritus off rocks with turkey baster. Basically clean up your tank from stuff that's been collecting for probably a while... Edited January 5, 2014 by lnevo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 January 5, 2014 Share January 5, 2014 I would add that one of the easiest ways it to grow macro algae. While I don't disagree I was at a CMAS meeting where Mike Paletta was the speaker. He said that Chaeto grows too slow to do anything, but Caulerpa was a much better option (lit 24/7). No first hand experience with Caulerpa, but just relaying his pov. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkfalcon January 5, 2014 Author Share January 5, 2014 Going to do a 25 gallon water change and add bio pellets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lnevo January 5, 2014 Share January 5, 2014 My chaeto grows faster than my caluerpa. I've heard many different opinions on rate of growth for chaeto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now