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I haven't heard anything recently, but I know he had a major crash a couple of years back. I looked a bit but wasn't able to find anything recently.

 

I don't think you would need to eliminate the view from the two sides or stack against the wall, although I note that would be the easiest way to do it.

 

I think you could do it in a 3x3 tank, but it will be tough. You have rock now, right? Play with it!

 

I will have to take some photos tonight. The GF and I cut up some cardboard to lay on the floor that is the same dimensions as the DT. We have the rock all over the place, trying to find what we like on the floor, before transfering to the DT. If we had a "goal tank" to mimic that would be ideal. Otherwise we can keep moving the rocks around until we see something we like.

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Because of the location of your tank IMO it would be such a waist to only make it viewable from the front.. Not to mention trying to replicate that with a tank a 1/4 of the size would be nearly impossible (no offense).. The reason that tanks look so incredible is because its that size. I think you could try to aquascape to that theme, but be honest with yourself and what you're working with. I to love the channel look, and im sure you could get a similar look with your dimensions. As Chad said, play with the rocks. I like to get a piece of cardboard cut to the exact size of the tank, overflow area and all (bottom only, not actually build the tank in cardboard, though you could do that too).. I find this a good way to play around with the aquascape. You truly know what kind of space you have to work with.

Because of the location of your tank IMO it would be such a waist to only make it viewable from the front.. Not to mention trying to replicate that with a tank a 1/4 of the size would be nearly impossible (no offense).. The reason that tanks look so incredible is because its that size. I think you could try to aquascape to that theme, but be honest with yourself and what you're working with. I to love the channel look, and im sure you could get a similar look with your dimensions. As Chad said, play with the rocks. I like to get a piece of cardboard cut to the exact size of the tank, overflow area and all (bottom only, not actually build the tank in cardboard, though you could do that too).. I find this a good way to play around with the aquascape. You truly know what kind of space you have to work with.

 

I think you're probably right. I don't think I could convince the GF to not let the tank be viewable from the 3 sides anyway, that was a big selling point for her. I am contemplating creating a channel down the middle like Chris's tank below, or maybe one that is diagonal from the front left to the back right somehow.

 

DSC_0281.jpg

I actually like the diaganal channel idea with the back "wall" a bit higher than the front "wall"... It makes for very different views from each side of the tank. I also wouldn't stack rock any higher than ~1/2 the height of the tank.

 

But aquascaping is all about playing and making a vision (unique or borrowed) become a reality. Have fun with it, and make it look good to you.

I am getting a little bit discouraged setting the tank up. I've never had to build a sump from scratch, hook up plumbing from scratch, mount all this electrical stuff so it looks nice and not a cluttered mess, etc. My last tank came all pre-built by someone else. Last night I glued baffle #1 into the sump and I cut it 1/8" short, but can't help but wonder what will happen if it expands too much. Could it crack the glass in the 20g long? And then the plumbing is a pain. I've made 5 trips to Home Depot so far and still don't have the right pieces I need. Last night I glued the CS1 skimmer bottom flange to the cone incorrectly. It was supposed to be perfectly flush, which I thought it was because it was sitting flat on my table, but after I flipped it over and looked at it, it's not flush. Hopefully that doesn't ruin the skimmer. I'm tempted to offer cash to someone with experience setting up tanks to just come up and get it hooked up for me. I have all the equipment and parts...

My advice is.. Take a step back and simplify your set up. Ive been following your build and you have recieved lots of good advice, the problem is to much advice from to many people can and will confuse you. Flip flopping between decisions and designs, and trying to work on so many things at once can consume you. All along I have felt you were trying to do to much to start. After you get the basics done you can tweak and add on, but just get what is needed done. Reactors, controllers etc can wait.. Your cycling time is good for that. I also think all the "crazy" plumbing isnt helping. Pipes to feed this and that, t'd off here, unioned here etc is a little much. Especially for someone who is not a seasoned veteran of crazy plumbing. I think if you want all the crazy extra bells and whistles find someone VERY experienced to help. I to am awful at plumbing, I asked Rob (Zygote) to come do it for me. He plumbed my system, which is pretty simple in no time, and did it right the first time. You have to be honest with yourself on what you can really do.. Good luck, and remember this is a hobby, it should be fun and enjoyable (though its not always)..

^^^Very well said Travis!!!

 

I see that you live in Arlington, VA. I am no expert on plumbing but I built my own CS1 and my own SUMP using a 10gal and I siliconed the baffles and all. (This can be found with pics on my tank thread).

 

I am more than happy to drop by sometime and help out... Shoot me a PM.

Well, if I had room for a separate tank/container to hold the fresh RO/DI water, I think I'd go with a unit like the JBJ ATO, or Avast ATO, with a pump. However, I don't have any space to put such a container, so I think I need to run the RO/DI unit directly to my sump.

 

If I use the solenoid on a timer; coupled with the float valve in the sump -- that's basically a fail-proof ATO setup, right?

 

When we move from the apartment to a house and I can have a fish room, I'll switch over to a container (like a 20g brute trash can or something), and a pump, coupled with the Avast ATO probably.

 

Now it's a matter of finding someone who can drill a small hole for the float valve and a maybe a 1" hole for an external pump as well. Do any of our LFS drill tanks?

 

I have heard that running rodi in short "bursts" drastically reduces the life of the membrane. I dont remember the cause, but it had something to do with the membrane getting more TDI in the first minute of running it that the subsequent 20 min. You may want to look into an ATO unit.

I have heard that running rodi in short "bursts" drastically reduces the life of the membrane. I dont remember the cause, but it had something to do with the membrane getting more TDI in the first minute of running it that the subsequent 20 min. You may want to look into an ATO unit.

 

Dholmblad, thank you for the input. To be honest, I think this might be an urban legend. I've looked online and can't found any evidence that the membrane's lifespan will be drastically reduced. Maybe my DI Resin will need to be changed more frequently, but the output TDS should still always be 0 tds from the unit.

That looks nice, except for the plethora of ugly powerheads (no offense).

That looks nice, except for the plethora of ugly powerheads (no offense).

 

haha. agreed. I won't be running an army of maxi jets in mine. Just 1 MP40 for now.

I vote with Travis, that is awesome!

 

 

(edited)

Yeah that tank is awesome. But I am the least DIY person alive. By the time I got done trying to drill holes in my rock I'd be left with a pile of rubble lol.

 

But out of curiousity - Where can I get acrlyic rods locally? Home Depot/Lowe's, etc?

Edited by Ryan S

Yeah that tank is awesome. But I am the least DIY person alive. By the time I got done trying to drill holes in my rock I'd be left with a pile of rubble lol.

 

But out of curiousity - Where can I get acrlyic rods locally? Home Depot/Lowe's, etc?

 

You can use pieces of plastic coat hangers or small CPVC. I didn't have luck finding acrylic rod locally.

You can use pieces of plastic coat hangers or small CPVC. I didn't have luck finding acrylic rod locally.

 

How small of CPVC can you find in stores? And is CPVC reef safe, (don't know what the C stands for vs PVC?) I think the smallest PVC piping I saw at Home Depot was 1/2" maybe? If I am using them to connect 2 pieces of rock, do i need to plug them with anything before use?

You can go to Peidment plastics in Beltsville MD, you can also order them online. I have also used the really small PVC. I have a drill and masonary bits that your welcome to borrow. I would offer to help, but I have a overly busy weekend already. Making rock structures with rods is actually very easy, and even easier if you use dry rock.

You can go to Peidment plastics in Beltsville MD, you can also order them online. I have also used the really small PVC. I have a drill and masonary bits that your welcome to borrow. I would offer to help, but I have a overly busy weekend already. Making rock structures with rods is actually very easy, and even easier if you use dry rock.

 

Do you just drill holes into each rock you want to connect, use some sort of epoxy or glue, then shove the pvc pipe in, put the rocks together and let them dry? What kind of glue/epoxy should I use? I have a drill, I'd just need a masonary bit, let's say a 1/2" one, can I grab that at Home Depot too?

I accidentally deleted my step by step photos of building them a while ago. But yes, you can drill through stacking them, zip ties can also be a great tool to use as well. Reef epoxy is great, sometimes (esp with dry rocks) I use the epoxy from Lowes).. On my aquascape I made one "tower" stacking them through the rod, then I bullt a "stairway" of sorts, epoxying those pieces together one by one, letting them dry between adding more(i did it in the summer, it dries quick in 90 degree temps).. Then I connected my stairway to my tower. Trust me, you can do it. You can get masonary bits at lowes/HD. Something I have done in the past, and it doesnt have to be done is putting a square paver base stone at the bottom of the rod, epoxying the rod into the stone (drill a hole in the stone. I did this originally to have a nice flat base to support the other rocks, my most resent tank I did not do that, and its been just fine. Just make sure you have good bottom rocks that are going to be stable. I would drill a bunch of rocks, and then start playing around. You can always shorten the rods to your likings, and trim them down at the end before your finally epoxying.

 

 

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