Jim July 27, 2012 Share July 27, 2012 Ryan, I'd buy a frag or the colony of the red candy cap if you decide to do anything with it. Nbgen, pm me, I have one large frag and one small frag of orange cap you can have if you're interested. Let me know. Sorry for the OT post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishie July 27, 2012 Share July 27, 2012 wait no qt for the la stuff ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 27, 2012 Author Share July 27, 2012 wait no qt for the la stuff ? not for inverts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishie July 27, 2012 Share July 27, 2012 gotcha that was the byo cleanup crew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 28, 2012 Author Share July 28, 2012 Ok. tonight the uv bit the dust. i hooked it up to the mag 7 for a bit to try it out... not a good idea. far too powerful. it started to leak then trip my apex controller. i think a fuse part inside got wet and blew. so it needs a MJ feed, nothing else. so much for trying to combine the reactors and UV with the more powerful pump to save outlets (I have 2 full EB8s) and to save on pump space in my small sump... so basically, if i want to properly control the flow to my carbon mr5 reactor, i need a dedicated MJ. same for the gfo mr5 reactor. (each with a ball valve for precise control). the uv needs a MJ. and the fuge box will have a dedicated mj1200. i dont have room for 4 maxi jets in the sump, nor do i have 4 free electrical outlets, i'd need a third eb8! i am tempted to remove the carbon reactor, remove the gfo reactor, remove the vinegar dosing pump, remove the uv... and just dose alk and cal and do weekly water changes... and have the chaeto box w/ a light on 12 hours every night... good idea/bad idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallreef July 28, 2012 Share July 28, 2012 hhrrmmm Im not one for over complicating things so... im probably NOT the person to answer this question, lol BUT have you noticed GREAT things since starting all these things?? and I would be worried about stopping them all simultaneously instead of one at a time over a period of time.... AND what do your corals and fish really NEED.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epleeds July 28, 2012 Share July 28, 2012 so basically, if i want to properly control the flow to my carbon mr5 reactor, i need a dedicated MJ. same for the gfo mr5 reactor. (each with a ball valve for precise control). the uv needs a MJ. and the fuge box will have a dedicated mj1200. i dont have room for 4 maxi jets in the sump, nor do i have 4 free electrical outlets, This is way to complicated. Why not put on mag 5/7 on a simple manifold. Each reactor having its own ball valve to give proper flow and if u need to have any extra return back into the sump. That way, u have one pump on one plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 28, 2012 Author Share July 28, 2012 This is way to complicated. Why not put on mag 5/7 on a simple manifold. Each reactor having its own ball valve to give proper flow and if u need to have any extra return back into the sump. That way, u have one pump on one plug. I tried the Mag 7 to MR5 1 to MR5 2 to tank. But the GFO would tumble too much and the carbon not enough. I had a ball valve before each MR5. And I tried gfo then carbon and carbon the gfo, it didn't work either way. That's why I think I need dedicated pumps for each. Or a Y barb fitting from the pump instead of going to one MR5 then the other. Is that what you mean by a manifold? Let's say I want to connect a MJ1200 to my 2 MR5 reactors. I got a 1/2"x1/2" murloc push fitting from BRS that connects directly to the MJ1200, and you can push connect a 1/2" OD hose in the other side. However, the intake barbs on the MR5s are bigger, they fit a 1/2" ID hose. The part I would need to make this work is a Y "splitter" barb fitting, that goes from 1/2" OD hose to 2 1/2" ID hose in size. Does anyone know if Home Depot or Lowe's would have this? And if not, who would? If I could find this correctly sized barbed Y splitter... I could use 2 MJ1200s instead of 4... One would feed both reactors, and the other would split to feed the fuge and UV... that might work? (in theory though, the 2 MJ1200s would be 590gph in flow, split 4 ways. if i used the single mag 7, that would be 700gph split 4 ways, that would work better, right? can i split that thing 4 ways, w/ 4 separate ball valves?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k July 28, 2012 Share July 28, 2012 How come your fuge isn't being fed by the drain from the tank? It seems like you have drastically over-complicated things and by the looks of the inside of the cabinet, you have problems fitting it all in. Try to use gravity to power as much equipment before you start using pumps. Do like Leeds says and make a manifold with one pump feeding multiple things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim July 28, 2012 Share July 28, 2012 Ryan, this is the manifold that feeds everything from my Eheim 1262 return on my 120. I can explain more if you have any questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami July 28, 2012 Share July 28, 2012 Ryan, it's kind of a rats nest of flexible tubing you have there. I share the opinion that you ought to pause for a moment and rethink the organization of your cabinet. Get your plumbing tightened up and out of the way, and it'll cause you far fewer headaches. There's really no reason that I see that you can't run this setup off of one decent return pump using a manifold. Also, as Rob says, where possible, let gravity work for you. Also, remember that the overflow from the tank may have particulates in it (like food and pods) that could benefit from a first stop in a fuge. That's why a lot of overflows (not all) make their first stop in a fuge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 28, 2012 Author Share July 28, 2012 Ryan, this is the manifold that feeds everything from my Eheim 1262 return on my 120. I can explain more if you have any questions. Jim that looks super clean and efficient. I'll have to think about how I could take advantage of gravity feeding under my stand. I think it might be a lot of work to change our the whole system at this point, but maybe it would be worth it. I am trying to talking Rob into coming over and taking a look as well. I want the tank to be as flood proof, and fire proof, as possible. That's priority number 1! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 28, 2012 Author Share July 28, 2012 In my defense... I am working with a stand with a capacity of only 30"x30"x25"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 31, 2012 Author Share July 31, 2012 I don't have any coralline algae (or very very little if any). Is there a reason why it won't take hold in my tank? Vinegar? Alk or Cal not right? The high MAG from the bryopsis treatment? Other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surf&turf July 31, 2012 Share July 31, 2012 Maybe you need to add some to your system, since your started with clean rock, there isn't any in your system. See if you can get Evan to scrape you some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 31, 2012 Author Share July 31, 2012 Maybe you need to add some to your system, since your started with clean rock, there isn't any in your system. See if you can get Evan to scrape you some. Some coralline came on various frag plugs and inverts I've added. Maybe not enough though? I saw a few spots here and there on my dry rock, but it's gone away or not spread any since I noticed it a couple of months ago. I have a bottle of purple up, should I try that? Perhaps add some more coralline algae and use that stuff together to get it going? I was wondering if I had something eating it or a parameter too high or low that was causing the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surf&turf July 31, 2012 Share July 31, 2012 Asteria stars will eat it as well as urchins. As long as your CAL, ALK and Mag are ok it should grow, maybe the LEDS are to bright. It likes lower light areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 31, 2012 Author Share July 31, 2012 maybe the LEDS are to bright. that's possible. the radions have bleached a few sps pieces as well. maybe they are too awesome powerful. I've been thinking about trying all T5s (12-16 bulbs). I am sure they would dominate, but the annual bulb cost of $240-$320 is crazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 July 31, 2012 Share July 31, 2012 16 bulbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 31, 2012 Author Share July 31, 2012 16 bulbs My thinking... Keeping in mine the tank dimensions are 36" x 36" x 27". The biggest 36" ATI fixture is 10 bulbs, which I don't think would work. The dimensions of that fixture are: 34.5" x 21.5" x 2.3". Since the canopy I have is pretty shallow, the light would only be about 6" from the water. There would be spotlighting and not enough coverage, I would expect, to the front and back of the tank (about 7" of the front and 7" from the back). Chris Tran's totm had 2 6 bulb ati fixtures over it (12 bulbs total). With 2 units, 6 or 8 bulb, you could spread them out a little bit in the center, to gain full coverage for the entire tank, I would think? Chris recommended to me, if I switched out the radions for T5s, 2 ATI fixtures, 1 6 bulb and 1 8 bulb (14 bulbs total). I figured, what the heck, if I make the switch, I might as well get 2 of the 8 bulb fixtures for the 16 total. They are dimmable. The 8 bulb dimensions are 35.0" x 17.5" x 2.1" and so they'd really give complete coverage on the tank... Anyway, still not giving up on the radions. Just always keeping my options open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Der ABT July 31, 2012 Share July 31, 2012 HOLY Crap thats alot of bulbs....personally think its too many but....if your worried about light just add 2-4 t5s to your radions and be done with it... Coraline is nice, till you have to clean your glass all the time....while i like it i wish i didnt have any....some places i cant scrape b/c the coral is too close....your welcome to some shavings whenever haha.. Redoing the sump area would be an annoying but rewarding project... making a manifold is SIMPLE just need to parts and most are at home depot.....(thought i sent you a drawing of this EARLY on in your build..) if you were setting up the MR5s in a chain then there is no way it would work ...kinda like the brs dual reactor being a waste if you ask me.....and with a mag 7 you will have plenty of power to feed a uv etc and even the fuge for that matter with the excess (unless its your return pump as well) Key is to have ball valves to limit the flow to the speed you want before each reactor.....remeber to do some unions so you can do maintenance/cleaning on each off shoot like in the pic. As for not QTing the clean up crew...ARE YOU NUTS....there is water in their shells etc and they can carry disease just as easily....well i hope you at least rinsed them off in tank water taht you threw away... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 July 31, 2012 Share July 31, 2012 I would do a single 400w halide in a big reflector (cut top of canopy) WAYYYYY before I would do 16 T5 bulbs. Not that it wouldn't be nice, but that is just a LOT of bulbs to replace... I dunno. Just keep the radions, and clean up that sump area. Bette watch out, my tank is moving in with me next week ( ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S July 31, 2012 Author Share July 31, 2012 Chris Tran is running 2 radions and a 4 bulb ati fixture nowadays. I'd probably buy a 3rd radion before adding the T5s, b/c someday I will be upgrading to a 300g DD, and I'll likely mimic AcroporAddict's tank w/ 6 radions, so 3 now would just get me closer to the 6 I'll need eventually. Let's see what the new TIR lenses are like first. I acclimated the inverts and rinsed them off in the old water. If LA poisons my tank anyway, that would suck, for sure. Evan, the next time I come over I'll grab a baggie of coralline algae from your tank if that's okay with you. Another question: You've seen both frag racks on the side of the tank. I'd say each rack has about 12 sps frags on it. Any guess why half of them are white and half are brown? I thought white meant bleached, which meant too much light; and brown meant not enough light? So shouldn't they ALL be brown or ALL be white, if kept at the same height? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 July 31, 2012 Share July 31, 2012 bleached white or skeleton white? Were they healed frags from members or fresh cut wild? There are a lot of variables beyond your lights, and even beyond your tank in general here. My experience with LED's = RED/PURPLE sps do not like them. GREEN and ORANGE sps love them. Never had any blue sps, so can't say on that front. Get a piece of sunset montipora and make an island out of it. It will be a showpiece in short order. The variant that epleeds has grew crazy fast in my led tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S August 2, 2012 Author Share August 2, 2012 Added some new fish today. Everyone is happy and healthy. Taking it slowly this time instead of adding them all at once of course! Current Fish List: 1 Spotted Cardinalfish 2 Firefish 2 Tank Bred Blue Neon Cleaner Gobies 2 Tank Bred Ocellaris Clownfish Future Residents: 1 Spotted Cardinalfish 2 Tank Bred Banggai Cardinalfish 1 Royal Gramma 6 Lyretail Anthias (1 male / 5 females) 2 Japanese Swallowtail Angelfish (male / female) 2 Yellow Tangs I hope this fish population will make for a diverse group that gets along, has lots of personality, and adds lots of color and movement to the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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