Ryan's 150g Marineland Deep Dimension!

[Der ABT]

Look at the Avast skimmer as well, the CS1 rox. I have an ASM G3 modded and it works great but i got the CS1 for the new tank and cant wait to get it working, smaller footprint, pump is under the skimmer, can be run external etc..

The other thing you could do to make a little more sump room would be to make a small table/cabinet for next to the tank, alot of people do this for chillers, and either have the sump in there or have it for dosing jugs, ato, equipment panel etc.

could be make for cheap with Home Depot wood and just paint it to match the stand...id be happy to let you use the saws and stuff i have since your close (i dont have a ton but enough to do the job) but if you wanted it to look fancy may not be the best route, i can do nice but fancy is pushing it.

 

couple minor suggestions on the list

MP40s, ecosmart is nice but not necessary, you can save 100+ bucks picking up two used mp40w..just my opinion.

 

Red Sea test kits, not a huge fan, ive found salifert to be the best but am liking the hannah digital testers.

 

300w thermometer, id suggest going 500 or getting two 300s (redundency) for what will probably end up being 160-170g..could be wrong but my 300 seems to struggle with my 90g, 30g, an sump.

 

and my last input...

for Metal Halide

20k Radiums rock for growth and color...only bulb ill use, they are expensive but i really like my results. id say find a used reflector and ballast and maybe add a few T5s or a couple stunner strips for actinic.

i think there is actually a ballast and reflector for sale in richmond (richmondreefers or RC guys name is firebird crazy though it may be a 250) you should be able to find them fairly easily...im running a galaxy ballast with my radiums.

 

 

otherwise your well on your way and cant wait to see this set up...hopefully i can be the one to drive it home for you,,should fit in my SUV just fine as long as i can get the time to help.

Refractometer, with what people been saying about ones meant for brine vs saltwater im debating buying the saltwater one though ive been fine with a brine one for years now.

 

Get a controller, i have an ACIII and love it..wanted an apex but couldnt justify the cost for how i use it...one day ill probably have one but for now the ACIII does all i ask of it.

[Ryan S]

Thanks Evan.

 

Because LED lighting doesn't fit into my current budget (but maybe as an upgrade down the road), if I start with MH for now -- would I want 1 400w; 2 400w; or 2 250w over the tank? It's 27" deep.

 

Initially I was thinking 1 400w 20k Radium, in a large lumenarc 3. This should provide enough coverage for a 36"x36" tank? Maybe put some stunners on the 4 sides for extra pop?

 

But what about 2 400w 20k Radiums, in 2 mini lumenarcs?

 

Would 2 250w's be ok in mini's?

 

How about the 2 400w's with dimmable ballasts?

 

Anyone with thoughts on this?

Edited December 31, 2011 by Ryan S

[Jim]

I'd keep it simple and go with 1 400 watt MH. If you want two points of light then I'd go with 2 250's, 2 400's would be a LOT of light. If you add stunners be prepared to not notice them at all with the main lights on, they would provide nice actinic pop once the MH shuts down though.

[trockafella]

As stated above, dont waste your money on stunners. You can buy some leds from Lowes that change colors for $50 that are better than stunners. If you want to add some LED actinic, go with the panorama modules or power brights (or DIY)..

[Ryan S]

Whatever actinic supplementation I might add, is definitely down the road. Need to focus on the essentials right now to get water in the tank.

 

Should have a nice shipment from BRS arriving today. I'll post pics when I get home. Going to pick up the tank this Saturday, so that should be exciting as well!

[Ryan S]

A couple of packages arrived yesterday...

 

First, some salt and a refractometer:

 

Second, 4 boxes from the Bulk Reef Supply Group Buy. I wonder what's inside them!

[Ryan S]

Box #1:

 

Box #2:

 

Box #3:

 

Box #4:

[Chad]

Sweet! It's Christmas time!

[Ryan S]

I am SO impressed with the BRS Pukani rock. For $3.19/#, this is better than most LR I've ever seen, which runs $6-$10/#!

 

I ordered 50# of the Pukani rock, which amounted to 2 bags full.

 

Bag #1:

 

Bag #2:

 

Closeup #1:

 

Closeup #2:

 

Closeup #3:

 

Closeup #4:

[Novi]

Nice make sure you cook it. Lots of people report crazy high Phosphates from BRS's Pukani Rock and you dont want that in your DT!!

[BowieReefer84]

There is a good article over on reefcentral about the pukani having a lot of phosphates. It seems people are curing it with the use of lanthium chloride (pool phoshphate remover sold under "seaklear" brand) with positive results. Either way you go that rock looks really awesome!!!

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1474839

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2049855

[Ryan S]

Thanks for the info. I'll have to figure out cooking it for sure. Was thinking about rinsing it in the bathtub, or at a car wash place to start. I also need to figure out how to make the rock stand vertically, the way it's supposed too. For example, the large piece to the far right in the first rock photo, is an awesome piece, but it needs to stand up with the small end down. I've never really cut rock, or done acrylic rods before, so that's going to be a brand new experience for me this time around. See 2:07 in this video.

[roni]

definitely cure that stuff. A large rubbermaid tub with good water motion works well. I cured my rock for about 8 weeks while I was waiting for the tank.

 

What I would do in terms of layout is tape off a part of your floor with the footprint of your tank and lay out everything like you want it in the tank. Since your rock isn't cured yet you could also just do this in your tank. Drilling the rock isn't hard if it's a big piece and you go slowly. I used rods primarily but you can use cable ties and epoxy to get everything together. After I made everything, I put a little bit of stress on it to make sure it wouldn't move before putting the completed structure in the tank.

[Ryan S]

Getting close to pulling the trigger on an Avast CS1 skimmer. I haven't heard a single negative thing about them! I like the idea of upgrading it with a swabbie, a davy jones locker, and a recirc mod too.

 

Question about reactors. Assuming I get the CS1 skimmer and mod it to recirc. If I T the return to go to the reactors (lets say 2 reactors for now, 1 for carbon and 1 for GFO) then run the line directly to the skimmer; is there any reason to get the Avast MR5 reactors over the BRS reactors, or the BRS dual reactor? The BRS dual reactor is half the price, and if I am not running separate pumps for different flow rates to each reactor, wouldn't the dual reactor be just as good as 2 separate reactors? Comparing the BRS to the Avast - the BRS looks like it would be much easier and faster to change the media compared to the Avast, with the reusable internal cannister and the screw off top vs the screws of the Avast and just dumping the media inside loose? Thoughts/Advice?

[Cliff Puckstable]

The only thing I don't like about the BRS dual reactor is the GFO only tumbles on one side. I feel like its not utilizing all the media in the reactor. Once in a while I'll hit it with the house so the media gets mixed better. However my phosphates are always at 0, so I guess it's doing it job.

[Ryan S]

I also need to decide between the tunze osmolatorand the avast ato with backup mechanical float switch. i've seen the tunze for $100 used a few times; and the avast ato is $96 new shipped. so price isn't a real factor here. anyone have a preference of optical eye vs pressure? both use magnets now...?

[OldReefer]

The Avast pressure sensor is very reliable. That sensor paired with the a simple float valve provides redundancy and diversity without complexity. I think that s a beautiful thing. Tunze is good, but I think the Avast approach is better.

[Ryan S]

Bulk Reef Supply 75 GPD RO/DI 5 Stage *PLUS* System installed:

 

 

We moved the tank into my apartment this weekend. Here are 3 photos of the tank in its new home:

 

 

 

[Ryan S]

Does anyone think a single 400w MH in a reflector over the center of the tank would NOT be enough light for a mixed-reef tank? (Or does anyone think 2 400w MH's in reflectors would NOT be too much light for a mixed-reef tank?)

[Alieu07]

The tank sitting there very nicely. But don't let too much direct sun light to the tank tho. How do you like the extend stand? It's give you much better viewing right?

 

Can't wait till it get wet

 

Good luck with the tank build.

[wvreef]

looking great so far....just keep the natural light out of the tank as much as possible....

 

also who u spying on in your complex.....

[trockafella]

Why does everyone keep saying natural light is bad.? In a freshwater system I believe that is true, but it has no negative effect on a reef tank, it probably is more beneficial than it is bad.

 

Also, I highly recommend you buld your aquascape dry, then cure it. It makes using epoxy etc much easier and I think you will get a better result. I have done "live frames" both ways (wet and dry), and I had better results and much easier when using dry rocks.

[Ryan S]

The rock is still dry from BRS, sitting in a box. So I could definitely make that happen. And I don't mind waiting for it to cure in the tank. I'm in no rush to get fish or coral in there. Slow and steady wins the race!

 

(I still have no clue what kind of aquascape to create for a 3x3 cube tank that's viewable from 3 sides. I don't really want to do an island in the middle. Maybe a C shape (with the curve open to the front of the tank?))

 

As for the natural light - I was definitely worried about that with this location for the tank. I was even considering covering the sides and back of the tank, making it so the tank was only viewable from the front. But I thought I'd wait and see what happened down the road first. I could always cover up the sides later if the sun messes the tank up or anything.

 

In order to get water in the tank I need a sump and a light! Several folks have sumps they are willing to sell, but none are the sump I am looking for - that is - as big as possible, and with room for a skimmer and fuge. Once I find that, I'll be ready to plumb the tank.

 

And as for a light - I was ready to commit to a single 400w MH over the center - but since the water level is 9.5" from the canopy; that really limits the reflector I can get, even with a glass cover... I mean, if I get a 6" or a 7" reflector, that's only 2-3" above the water line... That might be a little too close for comfort...

Edited January 9, 2012 by Ryan S

[smallreef]

Curtains... they make curtains for windows and you can get blackout curtains if you are worried (that what I did on my sliding glass door that gets ALOT of light)

[Der ABT]

wow that fits really good right there,

 

i would think you would be ok with a lumenarc mini or something along those lines. also look at sunlight supply if you want one with glass they have some nice reflectors not all of them for aquariums but, i like single ended for bulb choices (mainly the radium).

 

or you could always just get a piece of glass cut and make a hanger out of some angle aluminum from home depot, would think it would be pretty darn cheap and easy to do that.

 

hope you find the sump soon and cant wait to see it in person