DIY KALK reactor folks

[krish]

I found the pH drop to 10.4. There was a ton of residue left in the

reactor. I emptied it out , cleaned it and added new kalk. The ph is

good now. The tank is also stable. This is something i should have done

sooner and not after letting the hair algae make a comeback. When the

pH was high enough, the hair algae were all turning white and

disappearing. I think the reactor is precipitating phosphate quite well.

 

So i plan on doing the clean up and reloading once every month or 45

days depending on the effluent pH.

 

-krish

[salmon alley]

Just finished going through this post.  I'm doing some research into building a kalk reactor and checking out different designs.  

My biggest concern with most of the designs is calcium precipitation inside the mixing pump.  I would think that precip would occur fairly quickly and require constant regular maintenance.  Is this something that you are seeing?

 

It would seem the only way to avoid such issues would be to have an indirect mixing system (magnetic stir bar or externally driven mixer).  

 

Any comment on this?

Thanks

[flowerseller]

Several of us had some noisey pump issues early on. I replaced mine because I had one ready to go and it's been fine since.

I am stiring mine 3X daily for 5 mins now and am very happy with the results. Stays fluffy on the bottom and slightly cludy in the column

I still do not need to add more kalk since the first fill of 1-1 1/2 cups. I still have somones here if you want to see one that's not in use before you decide

which design to make. A magnetic stir bar is probably the best set up in IMO but these work very fine and at a fraction of the cost minus the couple of hours of fun making it.

Chip

[Tri Bui]

salmon alley,

 

I am interesting in making DIY the Kalk reactor since I miss it last time, If you ever think of making one with the new design count me in thanks.

[Reef7855]

I just finished my Nilsen Reactor.  I used a 8" diameter 1/4"wall x 40" tall acrylic tube.  I used 1/2" gray pvc flanges and for a pump I used a Eheim.  So far seems to be working great.  I have it hooked up to a Tunze Osmolator w/ a turbelle feed pump.  If the pump gets to built up with precipitate to quickly I will remove it and just let the feed pump mix it as it sends water into the column.  The feed pump seems to do plenty of mixing as it is without the Eheim being turned on.  Time will tell I guess.

[flowerseller]

I'm preparing to get my new DIY calcium reactor online right after Valentine's day so I just cleaned out my DIY kalkreactor we all made and added new kalkwasser. I was surprised to see how much kalkwasser was still left in the reactor and how fluffy like it still was. I did see some evidence of very small amounts of calcium carbonate which is a by product when air and kalkwasser are mixed together. (looks like small shards of glass which is what tears up the impellers and is the reason we made them to be able to mix in an air free chamber)

I assume this is the result of small amounts of air that get in the top off pump because I take it out and wheel the reservior over to the sink when I fill up my reservoir. To prevent this in the future, I redid my outlet fitting to stop flush at the top of the reactor by not screwing it all the way in. This allows all air pockets to be pushed right out on the first pumping. Again I added some of both kalk products I have to total about 1 cup.

I first filled mine and put it online with a little more than a cup in the first week of November. I bet there was 1/4 to as much as 1/3 a cup left. This is a far cry better mixture and delivery system than I used for my 1st 10-12 years of kalkwasser use and my aquarium inhabitants are clearly appreciating the effort.

Now might be a good time to have a peek at yours if you haven't yet. If you see calcium carbonate, pay close attention to how far your outlet fitting sits below the top of the lid. I simply used an extra wind or two of telflon tape when I reseated the JG fitting to prevent a leak.

[GaryL]

ok sense i lack some vision can you guys explain to me how to hook up you kalk reactors to the top off units? i noticed chip has his with bigger tubing running through his. how did you accomplish this? what size tubing and what size pump? i was thinking a maxi jet to run it

[craby]

I have mine set up like Krish, w/ a pressurized tank hooked up to the pressure regulator on my RO/DI unit under my kitchen sink. I have a solenoid valve & float switch to control top off. When the water level drops in the sump, the switch turns the normally closed solenoid valve open & the pressurized tank forces water throught the kalk reactor into the sump until the water level shuts the float switch off.

[GaryL]

I have mine set up like Krish, w/ a pressurized tank hooked up to the pressure regulator on my RO/DI unit under my kitchen sink. I have a solenoid valve & float switch to control top off. When the water level drops in the sump, the switch turns the normally closed solenoid valve open & the pressurized tank forces water throught the kalk reactor into the sump until the water level shuts the float switch off.

27207[/snapback]

 

Luke, what actual hose do you use, i have the same foat switches you all do but im trying to figure out how to plumb the delivery device. thanks

[flowerseller]

I use a float valve and 30g reservoir (controlled amount stored in a plastic trash can from Hechingers cleaned out really good)

I'm personally leary of an unlimited amount of water running through an RO/DI directly into the tank or sump. Hooking directly up to a water line smells like a recipe for disaster to me.

My belief is these set ups are best suited to take the worry out of filling up a reservoir and should not be used directly inline with a top off unit.

What if the float or solenoid sticks...... most likely as you lock the door to go on vacation. With a controlled amount, at best you'll hypo salinate and even cloud your tank, but won't have a new fresh water tank.

 

I did not use the JG fittings because my goal was to simply add this unit into my existing setup. I now use a backflow valve and the 1/4 tube is too small. I got the largest sized vinyl tube fitting that would screw into the thread we cut and hooked it inline. I also used rigid gray sink tubing with the compression part cut off on the inflow inside the reactor.

 

Come have a peek so you understand it better.

You still have hair so info may sink in slower than it does for us baldy guys. Look how much Howard knows....

plus I'll clip you a couple frags.

[Guest clownfish4]

Will you clip frags for the rest of us? :D

[HowardofNOVA]

I had a leak around the electrical line and seal. Hopefully with a new batch of Silicone, this will be gone. I'm hoping to put back online tonight, but need to get the Topoff hooked up soon as well!

Need to look into getting a backflow valve soon also, anyone interested or suggest a good one for this unit?

Howard

[Guest clownfish4]

I also have a small leak in my electrical fitting and will fix it with silicone when I return from Tahoe on Saturday. Other than that I am very happy with the results.

[flowerseller]

Here's the link to the 1/2" npt plastic swing check valve I used.

[HowardofNOVA]

Chip,

Your recommending these over the Check/Backflow Valves 1/4":

http://webcat.ryanherco.com/products/070/1...7/070110187.cfm

They list for $10.28 but our cost will be $5.65 each?

Howard

[flowerseller]

That has a stainless steel spring. Even thought it's only fresh water running to the kalkreactor, with marine tanks, not all stainless steel is created equal and can corrode.

If you order from MC, I want a 1" swing valve and a few other things.

[flowerseller]

I have added an extender to the pump shaft rasing the white water line up into the top 3rd of the reactor.

 

I also got a new PH monitor and checked the effluent from the Kalk reactor.

In the 45 days since I last cleaned it out and added 1.5 cups of new kalk, it reads 12.38.

The marine system PH runs 8.1-8.3 and it evaporates about 2-3gpd.

My kalk reactor is stired 4 x pd for 5mins and I also use a DIY CA reactor with an effluent value of 6.98.

[flowerseller]

I'd been having seepage from the cord again and decided that was enough.

I found this Liquid-Tight Cord Grip. Suits our needs perfectly.

I wrapped the threaded part generously with teflon tape and it screws right in place eliminating the seepage and it looks way cool.

 

Got it at McMaster-Carr

Part # 69915K46 or 69915K47 fits a slightly larger cord.

 

I'm planning to order some more stuff for some other projects I tinkering with so if you want one, let me know soon. $2.00 + shiping.

 

Personally, my reactor has been working really well with the exception of the cord leak.

I have noticed better preformance by adding a couple tsp of kalk every month to freshen up the existing.

[Gadgets]

Hey chip. Will there ever be another build part for Kalk reators? TIA

[Guest alex wlazlak]

when you guys build these, how much does the totsl caust end up to be? id like to get one for my 120 when i set it up, but there expensive like heck for somthing that looks simple to build....IF you have a table saw, which i dont. i might try to build one in shop class if theyre easy enough to build.

[Grav]

I've never had any leaking around the cord. The only issue I've ever had was that the base got a crack along the round grove where the clear tube sits. I was moving around the fish room one day and gave the unit a pretty good bump. So, I cut another peice the same size as the base and slapped it on the bottom. It is holding togeather, but I have a tiny itsey bitsy kalk creap at the base. I've since found the reactor a safer location, and I'm not too worried about it.

 

Thanks again Chip!!!

[ReeferMan]

anyone that attended this Kalk making party want to get togther and show others how to make them? I'm sure we could have enough people interested in making them if someone who made them in the past could give some guidance

[craby]

I make $40 an hour if you'd like to hire me as a consultant, or you can read the 16 pages & related links. :whip:

 

Just kiddin'. I'm not for hire. There may be somebody w/ extra time willing to help, but I'm not your huckleberry. This DIY was time intensive & a struggle to coordinate as I'm sure Chip would agree.

[ReeferMan]

i looked at the directions to make this kalk reactor but i def dont have all the tools needed. Let me know if anyone would be willing to help.

[flowerseller]

I'm looking at Jan 2006 at the earliest for me.

I've got other projects I'm working on prior to then and now till Xmas is my busiest time of the year.

 

While I had a blast leading / teaching this project, If this happened again, it would be a smaller group for sure.

 

Don't take it the wrong way or wait for me if you get a bite earlier than I can.