craby

Having a generator is a big game changer. When I pull it out of the shed, I use a couple extension cords. One for the fridge, one for the aquarium heater/chiller & return pump. If the generator has too much load, you can alternate the extension cords, only running the fridge for about an hour a couple times a day. Don't forget when the power comes back on to turn the stop cock fuel valve off & run it till it runs out of gas so it starts next time & isn't all gummed up. If yours doesn't have a stop cock fuel valve you'll need to drain the fuel out the tank, then run it till it kills.

I believe I have CIP, not DIP as all of the above ground riser pipe was cracked up due to joist water damage/settlement & had to be replaced w/ PVC and it was CIP. Not sure if they would change to DIP below the slab. House built in 1948. Probably would be fine thinking that the pipe has some scum built up that protects it. I also thought of just using a garden hose to drain to my back yard, but don't because I think the salt would kill the landscaping.

Does anyone know if water changes dumped down the drain will make my cast iron sanitary pipes rust away? I've been carrying it to the curb for years & now that my set up is in the basement it's getting old carrying all those buckets up the stairs.

Very sweet and enginuitive! I predict a blank off panel above the black acrylic to fill in the demising wall opening. I wish I had such a set up for a wet room and display adjacent. Will you need to exhaust the wet room on a humidistat?

You can use a sea squirt to direct feed them. Then they will take off like a California wild fire.

I think you want it to percolate a bit, but not so fast that it looks like a BINGO ball tumbler. Any "dust" should dissipate. Have you thought of using Rowaphos? If you do, use it sparingly at first so you don't go to zero phosphates all of a sudden and shock the tank.

A recommendation to reduce the chance a table saw will kick back on acrylic, PVC, Plexiglass, etc. is to set the saw blade height at 1/2 thickness or less & pass 2 or more times. Each pass creates a deeper path for the blade to follow, reduces chipping/splintering, is safer, takes very little time to raise blade, reduces/eliminates melting. What's a few more seconds for a better finished product ?

130 gal display. 10 gal in sump. 600 GPH return.

I know the feeling Howy.

It's good to know that at least one LFS truely supports the reef society & our club by employing a member. I find that when I talk to most LFS employees I talk way over their head & they end up smiling & nodding the whole time. John, you have a valuable asset in Byron. I find he is one of the more knowledgeable members we have. Now where is that stepping stool? I think he was looking for a raise.

If I understand your situation the noise is coming from the water splashing down into the chamber with the drain line bulkhead that drains water to the sump. So it sounds like you have (2) chambers on the external part of the overflow box. W/ this type the "U" siphon tube sits in the 1st chamber & the baffle divider insures that the "U" tube remains submerged & does not break siphon. The water then overflows (splashing sound) from this 1st chamber into the 2nd chamber where you're drain line bulkhead is located. If this is your situation, try leaning a piece of plexiglass against the baffle at an angle. The falling water would then no longer be splashing & should quite down. Also, putting a plexiglass cover on top of the external overflow will help dampen any noise.

I tried it. I stuck it in the neighborhood creek to cure & it disapeared. I guess one of the neigborly trail walkers liked my work & decided it would make nice lawn decoration :2thumbsup: . Oh well, serves me right for not having a creek that runs through my property in DC, but on the other hand that kind of land is not within my budget. Maybe someday I can afford it if I keep being fruggle & making LR.

FYI - If you go to the Tunze forum @ Reef Central the first post is in regards to this issue.

Does anybody have any input on if the noise created by Power Heads bother the fish/inverts? I'm wandering <_< because I am using (2) Tunze 6000 streams and when I put my ear up to the tank glass it sounds like I'm swimming underwater :thinking2: w/ a boat idoling overhead :stars: . I think this scares fish away when your fishing, but does this put unhealthy stress on them?

The lighting should not be a problem. In nature, corals don't receive full light 365 days a year, and simulating some stormy weather may do some good. Also, you need to make sure that the new power supply is GFCI protected.

What type ballast? Ballasts electrical plug types can vary depending on manufacturer. Another option, though not ideal - I think Howard has a MH lamp cord direct wired to his ballast ilo using disconnect plugs.

I have Wally's to thank for getting me into the SW hobby. I bought my 1st tank (6 gallon Eclipse) from there 3 years ago & if it weren't for them, I might not have ever taken the leap. Thank you Wally's & glad to hear of the improvements. Keep it up!

I am using (2) 24" VHO's on my 36" long FW tank setup (3'lx2'dx3't). I prefer having the reduced light on the vertical glass as it causes less algea to grow on the glass.

I find the Tunze Ozmolator is my favorite. It has safety features & design that make it real user friendly & fool proof. - It shuts off after running for 10 minutes & sounds alarm. - It uses optical sensor (more accurate than float switch) as the main switch w/ float switch as back up. W/ the optical sensor there is also no issue w/ calcium build up as w/ float switch. - Roger at Tunze advised that "It has a 2 year warranty against defects, getting the osmolator wet or covered in salt creep is not covered. In general the optic sensor should be cleaned annually. I would place the failure rate over 2 years at about 1 in a 100." All in all I'd say the ozmolator is very reliable. They run around $100, but most of the cost is in the controller & optical sensor.

Does anyone have a good link to the proper tubing routing diagram?

I give up. Count me over & out.

"The cold cathode mounts easily via velcro squares attached to the end of the tubes. Specifications Length: 12.25 inches" I think that most tanks will not need a special hood, unless your using it over a nano 2.5 gal tank that is < 12.25".

I make $40 an hour if you'd like to hire me as a consultant, or you can read the 16 pages & related links. :whip: Just kiddin'. I'm not for hire. There may be somebody w/ extra time willing to help, but I'm not your huckleberry. This DIY was time intensive & a struggle to coordinate as I'm sure Chip would agree.

Nice job! It looks much bigger than a 30 gal tank. How do you like the air stone? I believe Hydor has a new line of air pump that is completely submerged called ARIO. They also are comming out w/ Colored ARIOs soon.

I too see my fish swimming around w/ the LED's as tough the regular lights are on. I have my regular lights on from 6pm-10pm & LED's on from 10pm-8am. Tunze sells a moon light setup that has a 28 day moon cycle simulator, which replicates nature more than a constant LED intensity. I don't have to worry about corals, but so that my fish get some sleep, I think I will have the LED's on from 10pm-12pm. The only purpose here would be so I can see the tank w/ an irridecent blue shimmer. Looks really cool.