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Carl

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Everything posted by Carl

  1. Carl

    DIY ATO

    I'm in on a group build! I can supply tools, garage, and workbench to do the work...but not the knowledge to order the parts, or guarantee it would work. -Carl
  2. That would be GREAT!! I'm looking to add some baffles into my sump for my 75 display. And I'm going to the Nov meeting!! -Carl
  3. I went to the Piedmont Plastics web site...and there were like 20+ differenty types of acrylic. What is the specific type of acrylic I should look for when building baffles for a sump? (btw, I went to Home Depot, and they had only the 1/16" very thin plastic that I would never use for anything)
  4. Question about your UV... approx how many gallons are running through your UV? And do you have it plumbed so the water enters the UV at the bottom, and exists out the top, or vice versa? -Carl
  5. Thanks John... And thanks to Byron for helping me out over the weekend...I've got the 75 set up in the garage, with the sump in the stand...will try to figure out how to mount the UV...then come back up your way to purchase all the plumbing in the next week or two! -Carl
  6. Exactly...that's why I'm turning to everyone at WAMAS to let me know what mistakes they've made...before I make the same mistake. What I think I'll do now, is figure out if I can mount the UV so the water DOESN'T empty in case of pump failure...or even better, have the pump and UV light on the same switch/outlet. Thanks! -Carl
  7. How did you mount yours to prevent it from running dry?
  8. Does a UV have to be plumbed so it is always filled with water? Let's say my pump stopped flowing, or I wanted to turn of the pumps while feeding, and the water drained out of the UV filter. What would happen to a Gamma 40W UV filter if left on, with no water in it?
  9. So, is the Sequence Dart (3600gph) going to the 8 outlets positioned at the bottom of the tank? So, round numbers, you're looking at 30x -40x of water turnover inside your main tank. Or, do you have the Sequence dialed down? Do you run your equipment off of this same pump? skimmer? UV? Reason I"m asking, is that I'm trying to determine what pump(s) I need for my 75 gallon, with a 45 sump.
  10. It would seem to make sense to plump the UV after the skimmer - but that's just a guess. Does it really matter? Can I push the water through the UV and then into the Skimmer? -Carl
  11. It was late one night...I found the WAMAS site...I wanted to post...I needed a name quick...I was not very creative at the time. Carl = Carl
  12. Use them as "rollers" to get that REALLY big tank from the flatbed around to the back of the house into the basement. Stack them together for a 3-story fish tank...perhaps surrounded by a circular staircase going from the basement to the main living area, and continuing up to the 2nd floor. A decompression chamber for the summer house...for the recreational diver that surfaced too quickly. A $10,000 refugium for my 75 gallon mixed reef tank. With one-inch thick walls, it would be strong enough to put on top of the family Suburban, so the kids don't have to leave home without Nemo. Just add a few A/C condensing units..and voila...10 cryogenic chambers...one for every family member. And the number one thing you can do with these tubes...Seal up both ends...put a "Please Help I'm Stranded on a Dessert Island" letter inside with your cell phone number...set it out in the Atlantic...and see what happens.
  13. I agree...and I'm thinking about the following: The closed loop: I know some people love drilling the bottom or low in their tank for a hidden closed loop. and others swear that it's flirting with danger. So I may meet somewhere in the middle, and drill the back of the tank, about 1/2 or 2/3 of the way up, for input/output of a closed loop. What do you think if I were to use a mag 9 or 12? Then I would like to drill two additional holes near the top of the tank (back) to skim the top of the water, and return it down to the refuge/sump and skimmer. Returning back into the display tank from the sump, I'd like to have it go directly to 2-3 returns near the surface of the display tank so you only see an inch or so of the pipes sticking down. And a 4th return that would branch through the UV before returning to the main display. I'm not sure what pump to use here? perhaps another mag 9 or 12? -Carl
  14. Thanks Brian and Dan, So...refugium seems to be the obvious must-have (with dsb and 40w light). Followed closely by filter sock and enough water turnover in the tank (75 gal x 15 = 1125 gal/hr??) or more? And a runner up being the ATO, with integrated kalk wasser (kalk stirrer correct?). A test kit can be purchased anytime...not critical in planning. Carbon filter can be added later...or at least have a means to hang a bag of carbon in the sump. Phosphate remover can be added afterwards...but I'll need to plan to build an extra 2+ T's off of my return pump to add carbon and/or phosphate canisters in the future. and forget about the ozone, wavemaker and automated controller for a while. And I will add towards the top of my list...an easy way to do water changes...I'd like to have some sort of automated way to do water changes...similar to what NAGA did on his personal tank, and the tank he's currently building for his client. Brian and Dan...I appreciate your help with this!!!
  15. Yes...the 9 foot tank...the 5-year project. It has come down to timing and budget. I've got the tank, stand, skimmer, some lights, sump(maybe), and a Barracuda pump. I still need to waterproof the fish room walls and floor, put in a floor drain, cut a hole in the wall for the tank, run another electrical circuit...and of course the plumbing and purchase more equipment. The next part of the project is to get the fish room in order...put floor drain(s) in the concrete floor, epoxy paint the floor, paint the walls, put in an air vent. I hope to get to these tasks this fall. So, in the meantime, I've taken on a smaller project...upgrading to this 75 gallon...and keeping my eyes out for good deals through WAMAS on dead LR, lighting and other misc stuff. -Carl
  16. My goal is a healthy mixed reef (with plenty of fish), and I have so far: 75 tank, 30 sump 1 GSA Shorty (yes everyone, I am the proud owner of the first GSA Shorty!!!) 1 40w UV RO/DI 4 96w PC's As I plan for future upgrades over the coming months/years, what equipment would you add first? and in what order? Wish list?? refugium Phosphate remover Kalkwasser Stirrer Calcium Reactor CO2 ATO Automated controller filter sock ozone wavemaker something else? I realize this is somewhat subjective, but I want your thoughts on what you would do. and in what order would you add things/upgrade? -Carl
  17. I've had False Perc's for a while. For a few years, they were calm, docile, and never came near my hand when I had it in the water. Once the pair started laying eggs, everything changed, and the female has become very aggressive, even trying to jump out of the water to nip at me. Good news is, looks like your Perc's will be supplying a nice diet of sushi eggs for the other tankmates every few weeks!!
  18. You could always set up a 125 gallon backup tank...so if/when your 45g every gets a crack, you can easily transfer the livestock to the 125g until you repair the 45g... :wink:
  19. Steve...looking good! What is the pump you are using? How many GPH does it pump? Will you supplement with another pump or powerheads? How many GPH will that be? -Carl
  20. Last night I dumped two gallons of fresh RO water into the tank...followed by a cup of IO salt directly into the skimmer. I use a BakPak skimmer on my 60 gallon reef - some folks would say that's breaking the rules... I used tap water (with PRIME additive) for the first 4 years of my tank...I don't see much difference now that I use RO water. I've never quaranteened anything...but that is now changing, since I developed a bad case of aiptasia a few months ago...learned the hard way on that one.
  21. I've had a 61.8 gallon mixed reef tank many years. What I like about my current system: simple design no sump What I don't like about my current system: no sump black/clear acryllic modern designed stand and hood mediocre BakPak skimmer 3 visible power heads in tank 1 visible heater in tank 1 visible BakPak preskimmer in tank difficult water changes - pails, water spilling acryllic scratches easily I am now upgrading to a 75 gallon glass tank. I will post pictures of what I have so far, and am looking for suggestions on Best Practices of tank setup and design for a tank this size. Initially, I'm looking for help with plumbing and electrical design, and as things progress, help with sand and rock design and finally the inhabitants. -Carl
  22. I'm interested in the cord grips! Let me know if/when you're around. -Carl
  23. How's this project progressing? Where did you mount the DC8's? On the power center box? -Carl
  24. Houses can be mixed...i.e. in my house there is a dedicated 15amp for the disposal and washing machine, and a dedicated 20amp for my microwave and my wire-closet. There is little to no chance (if the wiring was done properly) that your current 15 amp breaker has 12AWG wire (rated for 20 amps) attached to it. You could put a new outlet in your wall very close to your electrical panel...and use that for the vacuum with an extension cord. -Carl
  25. You cannot just swap out a 15amp breaker for a 20 amp breaker...it is likely the wires (probably 14/3)currently on that circuit can only support 15 amps. It would be best to run a new wire from the panel to where you need it. And while you're running a new wire, you may as well run two, if you have to open the wall anyway. That way you'll be set if you expand your tanks in the future and need more electricity. It will also give you redundant circuits - split your heater(s), pump(s), light(s) between the two new circuits in case one ever flips...like when you're on vacation or something...
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