NAGA

It definitely has taken some time. Multiple factors are making it that way including the fact that I am doing 3 large setups in a very short time and with a gigantic one on the horizon.

He is using multiple Giesemann twin 400watt halide pendents

here is some progress made on this 1000gallon beast

Maybe that will make for some good scrap for me. tanks like that cost so much to move and to have a space big enough for a tank like that is hard to come by even in large houses. I often get tanks like this and cut them up and move them in pieces and build another tank out of it. It will be interesting to see what it goes for; on ebay I would guess between 6,000 to 8,000

Khanh, that is a magnificent piece!!!

Sounds very nice. Seems to be the trend nowadays to go rimless.....................cuz euro-bracing doesn't cut it anymore. A number of the last series of tanks I have built have been acrylic rimless tanks

Jason, since you live in Laurel you are very close to where you can buy it. Piedmont Plastics in Laurel/Beltsville carries it in all sizes starting at pints. I don't remember what the retail price was but, perhaps the area of $16. I think there number is 301-881-7900 or 7800 hth's btw; am I the Maytag man you were speaking of???? LOL!!!

forgive my vagueness on the gap thing. You are correct in that the idea is to stick something in betwween the two surfaces to be bonded and then capilate the weldon into the joint. Razor blades work well for this job. You are correct in that there won't be a lot of pressure on the baffle joint but, I would operate with the same idea of just trying to create a very small space for you to get the glue in between the two surfaces. No dremel or wire brush but, do try to get the edges as clean as possible to ensure your best possible glue joint. These types of repairs are not always the easiest with all of the variables involved but, you should be ok.

The silcone isn't going to give you anything unless you just have a pin hole. Structurally it offers nothing. As far as your loose baffle the #4 will be ok as long as you can inject it between the wall and the baffle edge. If you have somehting to gap it with it will help even more. If the outside edges are coming loose that is another problem. You could glue a strip on the inside to hold it together but, you have to ask whether the rest of those edges are barely hanging on. Might not be a bad idea to put strips all around..............not very pretty but, cheap insurance. Make sure you get it very clean before you do that and it you can gap things with some razor blades in order to get the solvent glue inside.........the better the strength. Just pull the razor blades after about a minute or so.

I'll take the Yoshi gobies for $50.00

Be careful on 95..............driving on that road is a competitive sport. I had a rock come through my windshield from a dump truck (baseball size) when I was coming from Richmond. Very scary stuff and I was glad I was in a truck. Kept the rock as a momento I also found out what happens when a semi's tires blow......................wow! a loud cannon sounding blast with smoke and 4ft. sections of rubber flying through the air...............this happening 3 min. after the rock coming through...............a friday the 13th type of day although it was Thursday the 12th for me. I gotta mark that date for the future.......LOL!! Let me know what you guys think of the new tanks Marv has at the new store

I was down at Atlantis today.......................got a peek at the new store.......................very impressive set up. Lots of big tanks going up and more to come next week.

thanks, I have someone already should the deal go through

I spoke to the guy two days ago. I am trying to make a deal on it just off of the value of the material and I have someone I quoted a price on a 6'x6'x3' tank............................heck..........I could make two with that tank

Chip, do you still have mine?

The stand has styrofoam underneath a sheet of plywood. I typically like to see steel stands but, this was a case where the client wanted to save some $ and his brother's assurances that this would be a solid base given his engineering background. Some pics of the setup will be posted as progress continues. We just wanted to get it up on the stand and out of the way for the moment. Believe it or not but, the 4 of us got it up on the 39" tall stand. The old lever & Fulcrum method..............simple and effective. The water changes will be in the neighborhood of 150 gallons. A separate acrylic tank was constructed for that alone. It will have a dedicated mixing pump, temperture controller, and heater. There is a large room off to the side (pictured) where all of the equipment and plumbing will go to. The drain will be either a 2.5" or 3" out the side (left). Sump is about 200 gallons. We are starting off with 1600 watts of Giesemann lighting. A very large Bubble King skimmer along with Deltec and Tunze equipment will run this monster. There will be a 120 watt UV sterilizer on here as well. The rock will be epoxy'd into place for the most part. I had some WAMAS members help me build this tank. PCO1988 was a big help and actually shot some of the glue seams. The tank will be on idle for a week while some other pieces are brought in for assembly. I'll let the gentleman who's tank this is comment further should he get his registration in order to post.

This is a clients tank that was just put up today. He I believe is registering today on this forum board and will be joining the club in the next month> I told him I would get a thread started and let him chime in. Tank is 8'x4'x4'. It will be a reef tank as well. The gentleman on the very left is the owner (last picture)

Those look great Khanh!!!

My box is empty and I am taking orders with the above specials

PM box has been emptied.............sorry folks my box only holds 200 messages and I have to go through and figure out what I can delete. PM me with any inquiries and I will likely get back within 24hours.

In about 4 days I should be caught up to where I can take on some small stuff with some of the leftovers I have from some larger projects. There will be some specials where the small tanks, sumps, frag tanks, and such will be made to order at a discount to what they would normally be done for. What I am going to do is take an inventory of all of the 1/2"x3/4" & 1" material I have and based off of that come up with a quantity of sumps, nano's, frag tanks. and top-off tanks someone may want and pretty much have a cost that will be far less than what it normally would be. On the small tanks and frag tanks I will be making braceless tanks as the thicknesses that I will be using will make it so that top bracing will not be needed. i will post when these requests will be taken on this thread in about two weeks. So, if your thinking about a frag tank or other project that may fit into this category I'd start thinking of it now so that when I post a ready date you will be ready and not lose the spot. This will be a limited quantity figuring about 10 to 12 projects. The last time I did this the spots were taken in less than 12 hours. frag tank dimension limitations: 30" long 17" wide and 13" tall and any dimensions below those lengths Top off tank dimension limitations: Up to a 17" by 17" and 22" tall and all dimensions under. These will great for those who are using tanks/tubs/containers that don't allow you to see into them. These will be made with clear acrylic to have great visibility and to have them custom fit right into the tight spacing we all have under our tanks. Nano's: same dimension limitations as frag tank specs All of these will not be polished edges however for additional $ it can be. To offer everything at it's lowest price though I am building these not polished. Frag and Nano tanks will be a flat charge of $65 Top off tanks will be a flat charge of $50 Any dimensions that exceed the posted limits will be charged at least an additional $35 I am not taking orders as of today but, in about 4 days I will post when I can accept orders. There will be a limit of 14 orders taken. In order to guarantee your request to be within that 14 have your dimensions ready. Any holes will be charged an additional $5. Overflow boxes will be an additional $25. All of the tanks will be made with thicker than normally prescribed acrylic as I am using cut-offs from larger projects. All tanks will be made without any bracing due to the thicker acrylic. Those of you who have seen my work know that I tend to overbuild things anyway. Again, if you have everything thought out ahead of time it will get you a place within the 14. In order to keep the costs down I am outlining things in this manner to keep things very simple. If you are not able to get in this group I will do this again in about 2-3 months.

In about a week I should be caught up to where I can take on some small stuff with some of the leftovers I have from some larger projects. There will be some specials where the small tanks, sumps, frag tanks, and such will be made to order at a discount to what they would normally be done for. What I am going to do is take an inventory of all of the 1/2"x3/4" & 1" material I have and based off of that come up with a quantity of sumps, nano's, frag tanks. and top-off tanks someone may want and pretty much have a cost that will be far less than what it normally would be. On the small tanks and frag tanks I will be making braceless tanks as the thicknesses that I will be using will make it so that top bracing will not be needed. So, if your thinking about a frag tank or other project that may fit into this category I'd start thinking of it now so that when I post a ready date you will be ready and not lose the spot. This will be a limited quantity figuring 14 projects. The last time I did this the spots were taken in less than 12 hours. frag tank dimension limitations: 30" long 17" wide and 13" tall and any dimensions below those lengths Top off tank dimension limitations: Up to a 17" by 17" and 22" tall and all dimensions under. These will great for those who are using tanks/tubs/containers that don't allow you to see into them. These will be made with clear acrylic to have great visibility and to have them custom fit right into the tight spacing we all have under our tanks. Nano's: same dimension limitations as frag tank specs All of these will not be polished edges however for additional $ it can be. To offer everything at it's lowest price though I am building these not polished. Frag and Nano tanks will be a flat charge of $65 Top off tanks will be a flat charge of $50 Any dimensions that exceed the posted limits will be charged at least an additional $35 I am not taking orders as of today but, in about a week I will post when I can accept orders. There will be a limit of 14 orders taken. In order to guarantee your request to be within that 14 have your dimensions ready. Any holes will be charged an additional $5. Overflow boxes will be an additional $25. All of the tanks will be made with thicker than normally prescribed acrylic as I am using cut-offs from larger projects. All tanks will be made without any bracing due to the thicker acrylic. Those of you who have seen my work know that I tend to overbuild things anyway. Again, if you have everything thought out ahead of time it will get you a place within the 14. In order to keep the costs down I am outlining things in this manner to keep things very simple. If you are not able to get in this group I will do this again in about 2-3 months.

Oh, don't do those kits.........not worth their money...........I missed your call as I have had my hands full today.

The welding gun will indeed speed thing up for you. When welded that seam is super strong and yes tack welding it first is a great thing also. I have very limited experience with the welding gun as I used a very simple one. Per that link I posted for you they have some that are really impressive but, are big bucks. If you notice the H&S skimmers along with the Bubble King skimmers use that PVC weld for most of their joints. For what your doing long term it will save you a lot of time. It does take some doing to get the right touch if your using one of the less fancy guns but, it's not too hard to get it right. My Kalk reactor is made this way although it's pretty ugly by way of the welds but, it's rock solid. Let us know which gun you get.

Well it's the over time factor that plays into it. With a quick demonstration it can be shown and be quite suprising. You are correct about there being little pressure but, over time the joint does not hold up as well. I can only say this with my experiences going back 12+years and seeing what happens. You can ask Doug at Deltec for instance as a note worthy individual that I know wishes he had listened to a warning I gave 7 month's before his tank broke. I have built all of this stuff in the past and did it for years and can tell you I have tried it all. Most of that playing around was with Chip (flowerseller). I don't do any of it now but, it's how I started in plastic fab before I got professional training.