jamesbuf

We need pictures!!!!!!!

I say you just sell me the Solana, so I can use it in my bedroom That's by far the simplest solution to your problem

I would just go with a single MH over the tank, and run it for longer hours. Get a DE fixture and run a 14K bulb, so you won't need supplementation. Go with the Phoenix 14K since they put out great color, and are a relatively inexpensive bulb as far as MH bulbs go. Simplify this setup as much as possible, so it doesn't add more "chore" time in your maintenance.

I did have a Coral Banded that would stalk my peppermints and cleaner shrimps. The cleaners were never caught, but I definitely noticed a decrease in my peppermint population. I won't ever put one in my tank again. I'd much rather have the cleaning aspect of the cleaner shrimp and the aptasia-busting power of the peppermints. If your tank is big enough, I'm sure if you have a large enough tank, you could be successful though.

Get a rabbitfish. It'll knock out any macros in the tank in no time.

If the vinegar doesn't doe the trick, talk to ybenormal and let him soak it in some muramic acid. He put a small piece of LR into some of that acid and a minute later there was nothing left. If there are some calcium deposits inside the SQWD, that stuff will surely get rid of it. I know you're supposed to dilute it, but not really sure of the mixture. I'd find out from ctenophore or ybenormal.

premiumaquatics.com all the way. They bend over backwards to make you happy. Nothing against marinedepot, they are a few dollars more on most things. When PA doesn't have something in stock, then I turn to marinedepot. I stopped ordering from Dr. F&S because their prices seem to always be higher than both MD and PA.

I was going to start that system, but was turned off by all the daily dosing. I'm currently trying Prodibio since the dosing is at most weekly, if not every other week. I'm seeing pretty good preliminary results, but its only been 2.5-3 weeks thus far. If I don't see the results I'm hoping for, then I'm going back to the sulfur denitrator and will run GFO for phosphates. I'll still run my fuge too. It was dumb of me to stop running it last time.

When I click on that link it shows two different Ocean Runner impellers for sale, for both 2700 and 3700 pumps. Which Ocean Runner do you have?

To me, your phospate levels are much more important as far as growth goes. I'm sure having higher nitrates contributes to decreased growth somewhat though. I've noticed a great change in color when I have lower nitrates. After my sulfur denitrator was fully "commissioned" and breaking down nitrates, I took my refugium offline. Like an idiot, I didn't think about the impact this would have on my phosphate levels. For weeks corals looked the best they had ever looked, but the growth hadn't been very good. I then checked the phosphate levels and they were in the high range. Not saying this is a set in stone rule, and I'm sure there's plenty of people who will argue with me, but this had been my experience. Low nitrates = increased polyp extension and color. Low phosphates = increased growth. Still trying to work on having both at the same time

http://www.dtpetsupplies.com/catalog/Prote...mmer-Impellers/ I would also try balancing out your impeller by removing the opposite pieces on the impeller, then try doing a meshmod on the impeller. What do you have to lose?

should've snagged one of those myself before I handed the rock off to you.

20ppm is fine by my standards. I've seen many many successful tanks with those level of nitrates. Because of my fish addiction, my I struggle to keep my nitrates around 40-50ppm, even with a large amount of cheato, a sump filled with extra liverock, and large water changes. I simply have too many fish and waste for my system, which is why the sulfur reactor works great for me. I'm actually experimenting with Prodibio right now, so see if I can keep my nitrates down to acceptable levels with that alone. Seems to be working, as my nitrates have been steadily declining over the last 3 weeks. Most of my corals are responding in a positive way as well.

Actually nothing like a phosphate or media reactor. The flow through a sulfur reactor is measured in drops per second, waaaay slower than a media reactor. Plus a media reactor is using a chemical/mechanical reaction to absorb a desired substance out of the waterl. A sulfur reactor is relying on natural biological processes to reduce nitrates.

Never used that specific kind, but the theory is the same. Keep an oxygen deprived environment, and the anearobic bacteria (similar to that found deep inside your liverock and lower levels of your DSB) will break down nitrate into nitrogen and oxygen gas. Be prepared to test the outflow everyday to get the reactor "commissioned". You have to slow the flow through the reactor to allow for the buildup of the right bacteria, and then you can slowly increase the flow through the reactor as the bacteria population grows. You HAVE to test at least every other day, AND check the outflow several times per day to make sure the water flow is constant. If the flow clogs and stops, the inside of the reactor become too anaerobic and starts to produce hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell!!!), which is BAD!!! I stopped running my reactor in the middle of the last summer, because I thought it was messing up my pH. Turns out the low pH was caused by CO2 depression. I recently installed tubing so my skimmer pulls air directly from the outside, which has compeletly resolved my pH problem. I now plan on re-installing my sulfur reactor, but this time I plan on using an ORP probe to control the flow through the reactor. The ORP probe will read inside the reactor chamber, and if the O2 levels get too high, then my ACIII will shut down the flow of water into the reactor until the oxygen levels get low again. Very similar to how a pH probe can control the CO2 tank on a Calcium Reactor. For help in setting up the reactor, you can use the instructions here: http://www.midwestaquatic.com/MANUALS/SULF...ON%20MANUAL.pdf Hope this helps.

I've looked for a titrating style of Nitrate test kit, but haven't been able to find one yet. I agree with the colors coding, they all pretty much suck.

I'll split it with ya.

Oh man, where did you get that mini red carpet?? Very NICE!!!!

I looked locally a while ago and couldn't find anything. I never went to TSC to inquire if they could order one though. If you are successfull, please let me know. I might be down to get one too.

Here you go: http://www.aqua-mags.com/ I bought a 10pack a while ago when CMAS did a GB. I love them. A little more expensive now that they've caught on. They now have a larger faux rock with two magnets installed. Johnny over at BRK has one on the bottom left of his front coral tank. Its larger than you would think. Not too shabby. Kinda expensive at $30, but they're offering free shipping right now at least. Plenty of room to add 3-4 sps additional pieces if you've run out of space on your LR. I use the regular frag mags for my caps, so the caps can grow as big as they want out far against the walls where they won't overgrown or block light from other corals. *edit: awww screw it. I just ordered one of the "rock-mags" . I'll let you know how I like it when it gets here. I'm a sucker for free shipping

I know Convict tangs will eat turf algae, but a 40gal is way too small for that fish. I agree with Mithrax crab. A few Sally Lightfoot crabs would also go to town, plus they're fun to watch.

Gotta look into getting some of that stuff. I've definitely had some zoas look like that before. I've just let them go and the leftovers usually repopulate the area. How do you use the furan stuff??

Looking good man. Get some shrooms and other easy to care for softies in there. I've got all kinds of softies in my Mom's original FOWLR tank. GSP is growing like crazy, and zenia has exploded.

Where did you order from?

I thought the success rate of green goni's are in the gutter, but reds are somewhat successful. Is this true?