dhoch

I actually shatter them and put throw away the remnents. Shatter them is easy in a bag of some kind... just be careful. That being said I'm curious if others have a another or better way of disposing of them. Dave

The Winter Meeting of The Washington Area Marine Aquarist Society (WAMAS) will be on Saturday February 16, 2008 from 12:30-5:00 p.m. Julius West Middle School, 651 Great Falls Rd, Rockville, 20850 (immediately outside Washington, DC) Our featured special guest speaker Dr. Andrew W. Bruckner. Along with a great talk, lots of frag swapping, and a great raffle, we will also be doing elections and other official business this is sure to be a meeting NOT to miss! For further information on WAMAS and the Winter Meeting, visit our web site http://www.wamas.org/ Who: W.A.M.A.S. (Washington Area Marine Aquarium Society) When: February 16, 2008 (Saturday) Time: 12:30 P.M. - 5:00 P.M. (EST) Where: Julius West Middle School 651 Great Falls Rd Rockville, 20850 Cost: Members - Free / Non-members - $5.00 [Annual Membership = $20 - Individual; $35 - Family] Agenda 12:30 - 1:30 Sign in and Socializing 1:30 - 2:30 Club News - Elections 2:30 - 2:45 Break 2:45 - 4:00 Dr. Andrew Bruckner 4:00 - 4:30 More socialization! 4:30 - 5:000 Raffle 4:30 Adjourn Special guests - Dr. Andrew Bruckner Miscellaneous - Light refreshments and snacks will be provided. - Raffle prizes: Links to location: Mapquest Google Abstract: [Coming soon] Andrew Bruckner Bio: Andrew Bruckner is a coral reef ecologist with the NOAA Fisheries Office of Habitat Conservation. Andrew received his MS in marine biology from Northeastern University, Boston MA in 1988, and his Ph.D. from the University of Puerto Rico in 1999. His Ph. D. thesis involved a study on the occurrence, impact and treatment of black-band disease. During the 1990s he devoted much of his time to Caribbean coral reef research, focusing on the effects of coral predators and coral diseases on the survival of important reef-building corals. Andrew has also been involved in the development, implementation and training in coral health monitoring protocols. Andrew currently works on the NOAA Coral Reef Conservation Program and the U.S. Coral Reef Task Force on international and domestic coral reef conservation activities. Through the Coral Disease and Health Consortium (CDHC) he has been working with partners to develop diagnostic criteria for coral diseases, implement a rapid response protocol to address coral disease outbreaks; and improve our understanding of the global distribution and abundance of coral diseases and relationships with environmental factors. He recently developed a coral disease identification CD for western Atlantic reefs and partnered with UNEPs World Conservation Monitoring Center to implement the Global Coral Disease Database. He also continues his research on coral diseases and predators in Bonaire, Cura�ao, Puerto Rico, Jamaica and the Flower Gardens. His recent efforts on the international trade in coral reef species include analyses of the volume, sources and types of coral reef species collected for marine aquaria and curiuos; an identification guides for corals in trade; assistance to developing countries in the development of sustainable management guidelines for ornamental coral reef fisheries; use of CITES Appendix II listings to prevent unsustainable trade in seahorses, humphead wrasse, corals, and other species on of CITES; the development of conservation strategies for sea cucumbers, and collection and mariculture guidelines for stony corals. In addition to his coral reef research, Andrew manages two parts of the NOAA coral grants program and helps coordinate NOAAs Coral Reef Conservation Programs coral reef research, monitoring and management efforts. Recent awards include a 2004 Presidential Early Career Award for Scientists and Engineers (PECASE), and a 2003 NOAA Administrators Award.

Looks like some variation of asterina. They are typically algae eaters and harmless. Dave

I too would be curious as too how old your bulbs are... This is a major factor (in my experience) with Red Slime Growth (which I'm assuming is what you have even though you do not specify). Good flow is another... many people have two low flow in their tanks. Extended lighting is the 3rd. Dave

TT1 is a "dummy" timer you need to setup. Dave

That won't work. TO do a sattement like this you actually need 2 timers: OSC 005/055 TOP ON If Time > 23:00 THEN TT1 ON If Time > 06:00 THEN TT1 OFF If Timer TT1 = OFF Then TOP OFF Dave

Steve, Note that the 001/059 TOP ON is MINUTES not fraction of time.... what you have above would NOT work. depending on when the osc started it might never turn on OR it would turn on for only one minute in which case rascals solutions is better. Dave

Above, all is fine, but change 80 (starting port/ending port) to some other port #... 83 is a good one You ALSO need to configure your ACIII in network setup to respond to requests from port 83 (in this example)... Once you have done this test locally (on your network) if that works, do same from work. Dave

Ditto what Brian said Dave

ATI and Geismann BRK has them that being said if it's a pain to get there you can try premium aquatics Thats a lot of light for a long time... could you instead ramp up and ramp down? Also red slime is a good indecation that your bulbs are going south changing the frequency of the light they give off. Get new bulbs and replace them. In terms of color temp of bulbs thats more personal choice. Dave

The GSP will definitly sting, kill and overgrow other corals, but it doesn't have a long range like the frogspawn. It is a fast grower though. Dave

Rick, Where in NY are you... You can definitly find a couple of clubs up there that will be more than willing to help you out. That being said I think individuals would have had you start a little differently... For future: 1) Mix salt water in 5-10 gallon buckets (get salinity correct) 2) Place the sand in tank (empty other than the sand) 3) Pump/Pour the mixed and tested water into the tank... Using a plate to pour the water on will reduce the cloud of sand 4) Continue to tank is full. From where you are now do 2 things: 1) Let things stabelize 2) Ditch the hydrometer (tend to be harder to use and understand temp differential) and get a refractometer Start thinking about what you want to keep... fish only? Corals? (what kind of each). Make the plan and then we can recommend equipment you will need. Also read a lot... ReefCentral.com is a REALLY good place to check out... And if you shout out in the newbie forums there where in NY you are someone will be sure to help. Dave

Hmmm... I've always setup ATO with the water add line ABOVE the top water line where water is being added to. Dave

Why would the ATO be higher than the tank itself? Not sure why syphon would occur? Dave

THere is air in your water it get's trapped to the plastic inside the powerhead. The air collects more air till the bubble is big enough that it can't hold on anymore and then it gets dislodged. Dave

Depends on how long and how much but I would say it's probably ok. Dave

James... I believe it's called polyp bailout... I don't recall the answers to your questions, but search over on RC for that. Dave

I would have to see up close to differentiate, but chips suggestion makes sense...and probably more sense since it's looking to find light... and the sponge really wouldn't do that. That said probably best to remove the runners. Dave

VERY COOL PIC: Looks like an Alien... seriously though I think its sponge growth.

The 9-9:21 drop seems pretty fast for that dramtic a change... could something be interefering? Dave

Did the probe get removed from the water? Dave

You know your an old fart in this hobby when you give up a hobby only to have your foot still in it another year later Dave

Don't feel bad Dan has more skill than just about everyone here... with a couple of exceptions... I am humbled by it, and I would love to have him build my next tank. Dave

Yes.... just use any container and a dosing pump... just be sure the pump draw is not down in the "slury" Two part is another way to add calcium and alkalnity that are used by corals & coraline algae as building blocks. It's called two part because you add it in 2 parts (one for calcium and one for alkalinity). You can buy the stuff in most aquarium stores, but you can also make a DIY batch with fairly common ingredients much cheaper. Two part is what most people start with as it's easy to do and requires no eqiupment to do, just a couple of measuring devices (small cups or Tsp/Tbsp measures). As corals grow and the tank ages and there is more of demand on calcium and alkanlity the amount you will add will grow, depending on the size of the tank you may decide to go to an automated solution (kalk or a calcium reactor). Dave

That's an understatement Dave