albatross666

Hi Tom, the WAMAS president, will arrange to get stuff and the proceeds to WAMAS. I couldn't figure out how to archive this thread. Thanks Singh

Hi I have quite a bit of stuff to give away. Perhaps moving soon. 4-5 boxes of stuff, new t5 bulbs, CF, new retrofit kit, sand, rocks, décor, odds and ends, old pumps/powerheads, plumbing parts for overflows, test kits etc. At one time, had 300 gallons of water, now only 47, and will probably not go big again. plumbing parts for overflows. I will keep a few items. All free. If possible, someone from WAMAS can take it all and then at one of the events auction/sell pieces and the proceeds goto WAMAS? Anyways, if no-one on WAMAS wants it all, I will post on CL. Singh Please email me: albatross_singh@hotmail.com and inc a phone number.

So we drained the tank, and the level was not quite straignt, but almost level. Put a piece of plywood and filled it, tilted again, almost the same as before. I have been reading up on floors and weight distribution too, and we will have to rethink where the tank sits. Its in the garage till we figure this out. Thanks for suggestions

This is a standard 125 gallon setup. the stand is not flat, but has an edge all around the stand base. I cannot cut the carpet, but never thought about removing the padding. I have a piece of plywood that i cut ready to put under the stand, if that does not work, I might try the padding. Manpower arrives after breakfast. Lets see if it works. I also don;t have a decent level, i am about to go and get one. I have the phone app level will be interesting to compare results.

The stand is about 2.5 inches form teh wall. first thing i checked too!, I was albe to feel the nails under the carpet, so it clear off the nail strip. I also described it wrong. the tank is tilting forward, so that the water in the FRONT is touching the trim, and the back is where the water line is about 3/4 inches below the trim. The tank is somewhat in the center of the house, and there is one metal pole in the basement, but its pretty far from the tank. I just bought a sheet of plywood 4 feet by 8 feet and 3/4 inch. I will cut it tonight and try it tomorrow. Has anyone done this, and can tile be used and the tank sat on the tiled wood?

Greetings A slight issue. My tank and stand weight about 200-300 lbs. Its a 6 foot by 1.5 foot footprint. It has under 150 lbs of sand it it. It sits on carpet. The wall behind it continues below in the basement, so its probably a load bearing wall, But I have no way to tell. With water it tilts forward - > water level is full to the trim in the back, and about 3/4 th inch less in the front. Will a piece of plywood help level it out? If i put tiles on the plywood, will the tiles crack? Can use furniture moving pads/discs to level the stand? I thought that letting it sit for a day would compress the carpet and level out, but didn't happen. Tank and stand are brand new, so the stand is surely level. I have been googling around, but is there any standard way to level tanks? shims - may not look pretty, then there is the foam sheets method between tank and stand. There is nothing in the tank, but water and sand. I also have a quarter pallet of slate that are the decor for inside too, all heavy stone. Any ideas appreciated. I have to solve this by tomorrow. If you have done this before, please advise.

The Xenon one does not mention the spectrum. The dead light was 2700K

Hi Is it OK to use Xenon Under cabinet lights with a UV glass in front of the bulb for the refuge. My CF light for my refuge died, and the round CF bulb takes about 4-5 days to get here. The CF light I was using was a FEIT Electric under cabinet light with 40 watt output. The Xenon cabinet lights are only 20 watt and are Xenon. This is for my new 29 gallon BioCube. I scraped off the paint in the back filteration chamber, added lots of rock and cheato and added a light on the outside using velcro. Thanks for any pointers.

Aquapod 24 - initially used a fission nano, then a tzune 9002, and now its poly filters. The most difficult thing is that skimmers need more vertical room if you are using the stock hood. I used to leave the "feeding port" open during the weekend and let the skimmer run through there for the weekend.

Black powder and marine snow.

I took them off, since I am going to buy white leds for daytime shimmer. I am trying to sell them to recoup some cash so that I can try the white ones. I have tried 3 different metal halide lights, and love the effect, but its just too much heat for an acrylic top, so going to try this method. I have them removed and here is a picture removed: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/for/847192620.html

Hi I was trying to adjust the skimmer and I had to stick my hand into the rear chamber. There is a divider that separates the false wall and the rear tank wall. This divider makes the rear compartment into two chambers. Here is a picture: Now, the divider has unglued from the rear tank wall around the top portion (about 1-2 inches). I know that I can simply silicone it back, but is there any product that I can use and keep the tank running at the same time? Silicone has to cure for a day or so. Thanks

Hi Just put them in the mail. I was tinkering my my hood yesterday, so took them off. Having a had time figuring out how to do halides with acrylic! PS the resister ohmage is such that you need to run 5 v dc through the leds.

I do. two leds were extra, so i just soldered them to point up into the canopy instead of down in to the tank. If you want them, I can unsolder them this weekend - i am hoping to have some time this weekend to clean up my messy work. PM me your address and I can put them in the mail. A fun thing, while I was doing it, i burned up a string of leds because I was working on the kitchen counter and the sink is steel ... as soon as i pluged in, poof, burned most of them!