dhoch

Your temp is 71.9 that's whats setting the alarm off. How about a plot of temp (I thought you said it wasn't jumping around). Dave

Can you post the content of the emails (so we can see the params and status of the devices?) Dave

20Ks... interesting... I'm more with the params causing it than anything else (you mentioned low calc & alk way back when). This one just seems more susceptable maybe. What I can say is that I have had corals go from my 180 to my 40 breeder and exhibit this same behavior. Whats the difference... well more par (even though less bulbs and smaller wattage) on the 40 for one, PLUS lack of stable params... I've been able to stabilized the params and the bulbs are now a year old and milli & montis have now colored back up. Dave

The UNK is whenever there is not a defined status. Like if you have a gap between heaters on and off that might happen... typically AFTER YOU CHANGE YOUR PROGRAM and apply the program. What happens is that the state can NOT be determined FROM the DC units, only the AC brain knows the state. So let's say your temp is 78.5 and the heaters come on at 78 and off at 79. If the brain is reset (a program is updated) is the heater on or off... the brain doesn't know. The DC unit (8 or 4) will maintain the same state it was in (on or off) untill it gets a command to change its status... if it's off temp will decrease if it's on temp will increase until the new command from the brain. Before the brain sends that command status is UNK, once sent the status is know. Does that make sense? Dave

I calibrate like once every 3 months... more than that is overkill. Dave

First off give your alm a default status: If Time > 00:00 Then ALM OFF Definitly no power failures? Or hicups in the ph when something is turning on/off Dave

Assign the Alarm to like B1 or A16 (something that is not a true outlet). You do sacrifice a timer for the alarm. Dave

Almost all ph probes (at least the ones I've seen in the hobby) are all the same. The korallin (which is the calcium reactor I have) fits those standard probes. That being said I don't use it... For just the reason you said. INstead I have one of those hang on the side breeding cups and run my effulant into that. I have a couple of holes drilled in the breeding cup about 1.5" above the bottom so that the effluent will drip down into my sump. I put a probe in the cup and use that to measure my effluent.... Simple and I don't have to worry about removing it for calibration. Dave

My most expensive single fish was my lineatus wrasse... male... I paid $179 for him... Expensive I know, but I knew I wanted him. pictured here:

My vote is too much light... move down in the tank... especially a monti... let it acclimate... CA & Alk (in values like you have can also cause bleaching). Dave

Are you sure it's all aquarium stuff that caused the increase and not overall rate increases? Dave

Glad I could help

TS1 and TP1 are assigned timers in my program above, but PF1 is not. TS1 is where i have the Tunze Stream plugged in on my DC8 (Not required). TP1 is assigned to the first controller output of the Tunze Stream (E1 in my case I think)... THis is required. PF1 is just an identifier for what program is running. Dave

Can you give us a screen shot of all the "Status of timers" Dave

What Dave said will work if its a long spine urchin I've found I can get mine (8" or so) to move by prodding (Not with your hands ) and into say a piece of tupperware. Dave

THe first time I saw this coral look like this was a JohnC's place... Lot's of actinic... I knew I wanted to achieve that and so here it is: Dave

Ok here's one from me: Submitters: David Hochheiser, dhoch Location: in my 180 Camera Used: Nikon D70 w/ Tamro Macro Subject: Urchin butt

I would much rather see things ballanced dkh ~8-10 and calcium ~400. Add some baking powder to get the dkh up. Once ballanced then deal with the questions chip is asking. Realize with that volume of water you probably have some serious Coralline growth which is also eating up calcium Dave

Multiple of just about anything is a good thing in my book: Multiple temp probes Multiple heaters Multiple return pumps All on seperate circuts (in case 1 circult fails) Also keeping the cell phone close (priceless Dave

Typically Temp is not the biggest issue in power outages (although depending on the temp outside it might be). It's O2...It gets consumed pretty quickly in a heavily stocked tank AND without power heads and surface turbulence it is not replaced quickly. Dave

The problem with this is two fold: 1) Many of our thermometers don't measure down to 32 degrees. 2) Those that do... it's like calibrating your ph at like 6... not something we would typically do. Dave

Agreed... but 82-72 is pretty drastic range I would want a 3rd opinion to find out which one is more accurate. Dave

I have a handful (digital, and glass)... Use a bunch and take readings and look at the average/median. That being said you can look for a NIST calibrated one, but that's going to be expensive. Dave

Let's see this sounds like a good idea for the environment... let's make bulbs that save money (i.e. less electricity = better for the environment), but let's make them hazardous and NOT provide for a way to dispose of/recycle them. Dave

Well basically I have to drive to baltimore to recycle the bulbs? (Ikea in baltimore... local county doesn't accept them for recyclable) Hmmm and these are the same bulbs they are pushing for us to replace our standard household bulbs with... That doesn't make sense.