dhoch

Dan... lletellier was telling me about the wiring you did for your power center (I guess you did on your old one)... Care to show some pics and explain? Thanks, Dave

I did, and have done a lot of research into this. How long have the peps fry been alive? Typically there is a critical phase around (as I recall) 20 days and then again at 40 days. Dave

In the first pic... can you put an arrow to show what you are talking about? Really hard to tell from pictures... my guess would be some kind of worm in a calcerous shell, but can not confirm without seeing closer. Dave

Now I don't use a chiller so that part is lost on me, but I do use heaters and I have redundant temp gauges (one in main tank and one in the sump). If the temp gets too high in the sump that can shut of the heaters (Also the heaters are set some where so they don't get to high as well)... Did I say I was into redundancy. Dave

Not a big deal... Before I was dosing kalk that's what would happen to mine. Dave

No... Something completely different.... well not quite...ALMOST the same principal. I'm not sure how you have it wired. Those 8 Channel Devices would be wired as follows: Multiple Devices (up to 8 Lights, Pumps) -> 1 8 Channel Device -> 1 Socket (That one socket COULD be a DC8 socket but not necessarily). There is no way to have a single or multiple devices there controlled by a single switch AND be controlled by the aquacontroller Jr. independent of other devices. I.E. if something is plugged into that 8 channel device it's NOT controllable by the aquacontroller, and I'm guessing vice versa. The switch box I have built allows the device to be simultaneous used. Dave That is unless dan spliced wires some how.

The probes are NOT designed to be 100% submerged. That may work, but they are not designed that way. Dave

I have mine set for like 76 and 82.... but I don't like big temp swings... that's overly cautious on my part. Dave

This is why an alarm state is good... Setting the alarm state to turn a bunch of stuff off or let you know (via Text Message) is a great way to go. Dave

I knew there was no way the pH was dropping that much. Dave

Well it gives you a couple of things: 1) If you want to swtich something on or off manually you can do it via the menu but that takes time, plus you would have to do each device individually. The switch can be programmed so that with the flick of the switch multiple devices can be turned off For example my skimmer has 2 pumps: Feed, and circulation. I can turn both off with a flick of the switch. 2) You can wire in external devices like float swtiches, so that the state of your floatswtich can be seen by the aquacontroller, and in programming you can have it turn on/off something (like a ATO). Dave

I take no credit for this, or anything else that I have "come up with". I just read a lot and steal from others. In fact I've said a number of times (especially when you come to see my tank) that all the good ideas for my tank came from someone else. Dave

Verified if you have a PX1000 you can have up to 6 of those little switches.... Hmmmm maybe time to add some more switches... Who can do some soldering in a professional way? Dave

I have the PRO That being said, I THINK if you get one the expansion boxes you can do up to 6....Hmmmm research Dave

Well I did this morning... but not as often as the picture would have you think Dave

Ok... I posted a thread over in the DIY section... here is the link: http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=18978# Feel free to ask questions Dave

There was a question in the other forum in a thread about the aquacontrollers about making a switch box so I thought I would post some pics of mine here for posterity. All parts came from Radio Shack except for the float switch (not sure where I got that from), and the mini-din cable... I believe I got that at a mac store. (Note that one I got at one of the big box computer stores was NOT wired straight thru) Parts needed: Hobby Box (1) Switches (I used 4) TS Sockets (I used 4) TS Jacks (I have 4, but only ever used 2) Wire Straight thru Mini-Din cable I drilled 8 holes in the top of box and mounted the swtiches and the Sockets. I stripped one end of the minidin cable down to the wires Tested the cable to figure out that blue was ground, and which ones triggered switch 1 2 3 and 4 (you do this by setting up commands like this on your aquacontroller: If Swtich1 is Closed THEN ACT OFF and then touching cables together to turn of the actinic then your two cables are the switch1 cable, and the ground. Set up a similar statement for Switch2, again touch and reason out which is ground and which is switch 2 cable, etc. Soldered the thing together See picture 2 below(excuse my poor soldering)... anyone who wants to come do this for me and has better soldering skills (and tools) I would gladly take them up on this. Assuming you have it setup correctly test it...and then you are good to go My pics below show the box, the box with the minidin cable, the wiring (dont' trust my colored wires, test for yourself!!!) and then a couple of pics of how I wired a float swtich that I can stick on and/or remove. Questions? Dave

I wouldn't say he's done for, I mean he's still alive right now correct? I'm guessing though, like smoking, you took some time off his life. Dave

Looks like some time of fromia sp... but I don't know much about their care. Dave