rioreef

I know the stronger environment is better, but then I don't get as much debris in the water column, sand blowing a bit, and with the slower flow I can clearly see the back and forth movement caused by my SCWD's changing of the returns. The Tunze washes out much of this pattern. My clams mantles are not as extended in the turblent flow too and the fish swim about into areas of the tank they haven't really explored before. Would it hurt to have the strong flow for one or two days a week and then cut back for the rest. My Tunze is the 6060 model and is not controllable like other models. I have noticed sometimes the Tunze does not always turn back on properly (I flip the switch again to get it going) so I have been reluctant to put it on my Reefkeeper II and control it for time on/off several times a day that way. Maybe I should do that. Is the environment our aquatic friends come from always turbulent? They are not always sunny, yet we subject them to constant lighting. Just wondering for advice

I cleaned my pumps and powerheads over the weekend and now have a greater amount of flow within the tank, mainly because of the cleaning of the Tunze. Before this weekend, I notice my corals were much fuller in size and all growing healthy (in the "weaker flow". Now, the higher flows are keeping the LPS corals from expanding to what they were last week. My question is, is it better to have a lot of flow in a mixed tank or gently ocillating flow? What are your expericences?

Henry, I have a the same tank as you with a Mag 12 return that is split for flow to a fuge and through a SCWD. I just use the 1" drain and the 3/4" return is used as one of the two returns for the SWCD. With this setup I have to trim back the drain flow into the sump with a ball valve. I have an ASM skimmer with a Sedra 3500 pump, Tunze 6060, and a Maxijet 900 going...all this and no heat issues. I recently added a 25w UV with a Pan World 100PX. Now adding this did bump the temp up to levels I don't want, so I added a fan over the sump and I can control it to hover around 80 degrees. That said, I don't think you will have any heat issues that a fan over the sump couldn't handle. I you need any help I am also in Ashburn and am willing to assist if not just to see club members tank setup. Chris

I have one on my 90 and with a split off to a fuge and the return with a SCWD on it, I have to cut back on the drain to slow it down a bit for the Mag12 setup to return an equal amount.

No thanks, I will just walk there from my house.

If getting baffles made, remember this. Get the bottom corners of the baffle trimmed at a 45 degree angle, about 1/4 inch back. Then, when the baffle is place into a tank, the bottom line of silicone of the tank will not interfere with the baffle sitting on the bottom. Chris

Sterling Glass. On Cascades Pkwy, south of Route 7.

I ended up getting the tubing, fittings and a float valve from "The Filter Guys" online store. The John Guest tubing was only 10 cents per foot and in a variety of colors. Cheaper than Dr. Fosters. Thanks for the response.

That what I have encountered. I don't want to have any light penetration as to the possibility of growth on the inside of the tubing. Looks like I will order online somewhere.

Does anyone know if Lowes carries 1/4 " RO tubing? I don't want the the semi-translucent 1/4" tubing that have at HD (checked that out at the one in Ashburn) but, the totally white or other color. Chris

Thanks, I will look over your stock and may want to place an order. We will talk when I get back, see you this weekend or maybe Friday afternoon. Chris Riopelle

Sean, Forgot to ask about the true percual pair. Still available, cost, hold for me?

Sean, Is the Royal Gramma still available? I am in NYC and will not be back till this weekend, can you hold? Chris

Chip, What does flake food have to do with it???

I guess I wouldn't get much of a discount with a driver incentinve program for a 40 SECOND drive.

The ballast you listed as the numbers in the code say '239' which is two 39w bulbs. You need to get the one rated for the 54w. It would read B254PUNV-D, I have one. I have a 90g tank and run 2 bulbs on this ballast and the other four on an IceCap 660 and overdrive these. My photoperiods are: 9am -11:30am, 1pm - 5:30pm, 7pm-9:40pm = one aquablue, one blue+ (on TRIAD ballast) 11:30am - 7pm = two aquablue, two blue+ (on IC, overdriven) These give me three different light sequences at various intensity (2, 4, 6, 4, then 2 bulbs) throughout the day. I say go with and upgrade to T5 and overdrive. I can live without shimmers and lots of people ping T5s because they cannot keep mushrooms. I say, so what, just don't put these in and enjoy the benefits of the T5s. As far as bleaching as some have commented, this goes to show you the amount of light T5s put out. I use the screening method to acclimate and all is well. CR

Here is the whole sump picture. The three side by side baffles are approx 8 in in height, made from glass. The center one a little over an inch above the bottom of the sump. For any baffle that sits on the bottom, make sure the bottom corners are cut slightly back at a 45 degree angle. This is because of the silicone residing on the bottom of the glass tank where it meets the side wall. The angle of the baffles is slight, only a few degrees for the last baffle and the fuge baffle/wall.

I just got back from the Outer Banks from a week of swimming in that giant fish tank called the Atlantic Ocean. First, what does a small shark look like at it swims around your feet of you and your kids? I didn't get a second look That was no bait fish! Second, my 90 gal tank would not even fill up the moat around my kids sand castles, yet us reefers try to squeeze tons of life into our small ocean containers in our houses. Last is, the small plastic containers with lids from fast food places for ketchup make a great way to fill the desired amount of food to feed your tank that your tank sitter put in. No overfeeding, just dump it. At least this time my tank did not overflow.

I have a 29g sump on my 90g. The way I have it set up is the drain enters the chamber where the skimmer is, then a series of baffles (last at a slight angle) where water flows into the middle chamber. Here is my Mag 12 return that has a tee on the return. A very high majority of the return water goes back into the main tank. However where the tee is I have a ball valve allowing a low flow into the refugium section of the sump. Water flow is slow in the fuge and flows over the glass pane (also installed at a slight angle) back into the middle chamber. The fuge wall is much higher that the baffles too. This tee also allows me to balance my drain/return flow. As far as the 'raw' water going to the fuge, my skimmer by no means processes all the water from the drain. So, as I see it there is raw water throughout the sump. The one exception my be the overflow of the fuge. Plumbing off the Mag 12 (bottom of horizontal pipe off tee is approximate height of fuge wall Tee with valve into fuge Water returns the the main tank through a SCWD

I have had great sucess with ReefGeek and Greg. Packaging methods he uses have not resulted in one broken T5 bulb (easy thing to do with delivery services and the fragile bulbs). Many others have posted on RC about his great service.

Very good purchase. Really helps to automate/control equipment.

:( Darn...local pick up only.

Make the dosing very easy. Check out this link to dispensing bottles. Get the 32oz versions which have a dispensing chamber of 30ml. Squeeze, fills, then dose. Very easy and no spillage from working with gallon containers. I do this every morning before leaving for work. Get some of the other sizes for any other liquid additive and stop pouring into 'caps'.