rioreef

A quick statement about T5s: Any comment about watts/gal goes out the window, its all about the PAR. Check out the par testing being done in the club and the T5 setups. Read the RC threads or contact a very knowledgeable person on RC regarding this - TheGrimReefer. He has tested many different setup/bulbs for both T5 and MH.

Whether you have a storage tank or not does not affect your house pressure. The tanks sits at the end of the process. What can matter is the back pressure. From the Spectrapure web site on a pump that sits between the storage tank and the membrane to isolate this pressure, this is not for open storage systems, only pressurized: "A Permeate Pump increases net pressure across the RO membrane by isolating the membrane pressure from the pressure in the product water tank, thereby reducing the permeate back pressure to less than 3 psi. Using a permeate pump with an automatic shut-off valve greatly increases water purity stored in the tank, eliminating TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) creep. "

Here is the one I got off ebay - AquaSafe

I got the 6x54w retro setup for my canopy. Individual reflectors, individual end caps with standoffs, all wirinig and upgraded two of the three ballasts to a single IceCap 660 ballast. Reefgeek My setup is like that in this link but not with the IC 430 ballast, I kept the Sunlight ballast, this link is a new version of the retro kit. I just added two pieces of wood to my Oceanic canopy. Works great and totally customizable to endcap placement and wiring. I don't have a pic online, but could added it when I get home this afternoon if anyone wants it? cr

Try asking this question to Dr. Randy Holmes-Farley on ReefCentral.com in the Chemical Forum, seems to be the resident authority to the reef hobbiest. If anybody can give a credible answer, it is Randy.

I turn off the main pump which allows about 5 more gallons to drain back into the sump. I then use a rio 2100 to pump water out of the skimmer section and the main return area ( I have to switch the pump from one section to another during the process of taking about 10g out. The fuge is seperated by a 17" baffle on an 18" high tank, so I never end up taking any of the fuge water out. cr

I try to do 10g on my 90g with a 29g sump, total actual water volume just above 100g, so in all 10% every three weeks. I then take some of the main display water I took out and do a water change in the 10g hospital tank with 2 chromis as permenant residents. CR

This unit has a width of 8.5 inches, with 8 bulbs, this means there are no individual reflectors. An 8 bulb config with individual reflectors would be more around 19-20 inches wide. The individual reflectors with correct design has a huge impact on the amount of light these things put into the tank. The T5s will still put out the high light, but I am guessing not as much as the same number of bulbs on individual reflectors. Also, if there is no lens cover on the unit the end caps may not be moisture proof, another thing to look for.

Has the PAR meter testing spreadsheet been updated with the results from Doug's visits in the Leesburg/Ashburn/Sterling/Herndon areas? I know at 18in my PAR with the T5s is almost (in some case more than) double that of 250 MH at the same depth and this is with my lights not in the normal position due to access for the meter testing. My readings were in line with others I have seen on RC.

I am speaking from using an IceCap ballast and if you change the endcaps you can mix the bulbs.

I have a T5 High Output (HO) setup. Pros -From recent PAR testing, T5s are performing outstanding compared to MH -Lower operating cost -Bulbs last longer 12-18 months -Bulb combo options -Ability to overdrive with proper ballast -My maxima and crocea love it on the sandbed of my 90g (24 in tank depth) -Mushrooms do well in shaded or corner areas. -Ability to keep any coral from tank inhabitants and discussions on RC. People cry about mushrooms cant take it, I say shade them or put them in the corner. Do not trash the T5s because of the shroom effects. -Low cap on tank. No tall structure on top to house MH. -Not a heat issue, no chiller needed. Two small fans and good to go. -Using IceCap ballast to overdrive, you can mix T5 and VHO (for actinic). Cons -In April, I set up with dry base coral rock seed with 30lbs of live rock. Since then, purple coraline is growing everywhere except on the top surfaces of the original base rocks. The vertical and shaded area have plenty of it. -No direct shimmers. Indirect in certain areas (high angle from light source.) -No good actinic bulb Check out threads on RC a good and long one is here. Lots of pros and cons with various opinions. Take a weekend and read it. CR

John, No problem. When I sent the original message I was just trying to get general information on a variety of fish with no indication of desiring an order to be placed. Once I gathered information (message sent to various retailers in the area, BTW) I would have made a decision on what I could do. In the meantime, you ordered some of the fish anyways. I did look at that beautiful specimen, but my wife and I could not go with that one at this time. I was definitely in the market for a Kole, which you did have and I got. Sorry for any confusion and hope this doesn't affect any future business that we do (especially if that variety is my future at some point). Chris

Lee, Sure...let me give you my address ***** ***** *** *******, ** ***** :whip:

I have some orange zoos from Dr Macs I got during MACNA and are doing the same thing. Seem to be doing better like this than before when they were shorter. This pic was taken about a month ago and they are a bit longer.

Johnny, Size and pricing on Watanabei and Kole? CR

Difference from a 75 to a 90 is 4" in height, same footprint. This a 20% increase in volume. That can account for displacement of rock and sand. Thus, winding up with maybe 75g of actual water volume instead of around 60g. Goes a long way water stability = quality +volume. Chris

First, what is the difference in the above statement? Secondly, from my responses on RC, members say the TLF reactor is actually 3.25 inches and compared to the 'lowes' version there is a lot less media. From the lowes version I wonder if the diffusion method some commercial versions use and the phosphate reactors could be incorporated into the filter chamber, ie, a round piece of acrylic with holes drilled with foam on top. The acrylic plate could be held in place by sizing the diameter to the filter housing (tapered) so it can't go below a point. Drill some holes in the center PVC input pipe so the water exits below this acrylic plate. Do the same for top plate and foam if added. A neater design and possibly better diffusion (companies think so by their designs). Do this instead of the many methods employeed on the DIY $200 calcium reactor thread. The rest of the DIY, fittings, CO2 input, pumps, Probe holders, etc are the same. The cost of the single filter housing from lowes would make up the cost of two phosphate reactors discussed here. In the end no difference? Chris

When transfering to my 90g I took each piece or rock and inspected carefully, took a small flat screwdriver and pryed each one off (dig into the coral rock). Unlike aptasia, these thing stay together. After finishing a piece, place in a seperate container and come back tommorrow, I did this for three days until I was sure none were there. After having pieces infested with these, none made it over to the new tank. From experience, I started with one years ago in a 50g (did not know what I had), by early this year I suspect several hundered and they will take over everything even growing on soft coral tissue. Chris

How reef safe are these dwarf angels to SPS, LPS, Clams, Zoos Shrimp and Snails? 1. Flame Angel 2. Coral Beauty Chris

I have a 90g Oceanic with the Megaflow, mag 12 return with a SCWD, just what you guys are talking about. See pictures for my setup. I do split the return for a small amount to go to a refugium which oveflows back into the sump area where the mag is. I also have true union ball valves on the drain and return for access when needed, but more importantly the valves can control the flow for either side to match. Because I have the split off the Mag (valve fully opened) and the SCWD I have to limit the drain flow. Plumbing coming up off Mag 12, split to right to refugium. SCWD Drain with true union on left. Drilled return on right with swing type check valve. Right return out of SCWD to second return up the back side of the tank. Second return up and over (two 1/8" holes - 90 degree from each other drilled in modular pipe for siphon break, these holes should be below water surface) Chris

I saw the link, but with addressing it is not pinpoint and the possible choices out there are less but with longer stretches of road. It is done with the software knowing the address range between intersections and calculating against the desired address, determines a percentage along that segment. If is at the end, it may offset along the segment a define distance. So, West on 234 at the 659 intersection.

I would come from Ashburn via Rt 659 which Ts into 234. Would I turn left with BRK between Rts 659 and 29? Also, is there a sign to been seen? Chris

Size and price of Purple firefish? Where are you located in relation to the intersection of Routes 659 and 234? Chris

Count me in. Chris