Still_human
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Everything posted by Still_human
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What’s an appendate bone? I don’t see anything like an apparent appendate bone in the plesiosaur appendage. What is it/where is it?
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I was just wondering about the chart. I still find it pretty confusing, but I think I have a VERY general handle on it, but one thing that’s come up by me and a friend I was showing the chart to, is that filimentous/filament wrasse, as far as we’re familiar with, are pretty passive, and not aggressive at all, but I THINK the chart is saying that they are among the most aggressive of flashers . IS that what the chart is saying? Does that seem off to anyone else? I have very limited flasher/fairy wrasse experience, probably only dealing with half a dozen+ types or so, of what I believe many are the most common ones(lubbocks, filament, mccoskers, carpenters, blue/cyaneus, angular(?), solar, and yellow fin), but only of any significance with that first half, and I’ve never noticed any aggression, even towards others, through glass. I think there’s a good chance I’m misunderstanding the chart, though.
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Yeah, I’ve got the ol’ standard all-glass aquariums. I’m not the handiest person around. I actually can do quite a bit, but it always looks like someone rushed and improvised, and made changes in the middle of making it..........because I DID! Lol
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Thanks very much! Looks promising! And SO much better than me trying to put one together!!!
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Oh awesome, thank you SO much!!!!!!!!!!!
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Does anyone actually sell reef tank covers? Screen type, not glass. I’m assuming id have to make something, cause there’s too many variables with things around the rim, so would anyone happen to have any good and simple solutions. Something to clip on the sides that sticks up like a wall, would work too. Overall that sounds easier to do, except for the clip part.
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I can’t find it anywhere, so maybe it got deleted, or too old? I don’t know, but it’s not showing up in my activity, but i know I had a thread before asking about mixing fairy and flasher wrasse. Someone posted an awesome diagram specifically about that, with boxes of species that go together, versus what doesn’t. Does anyone happen to have that chart?
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Lol true, if u can get to the rock!
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I’m familiar with goniopora having been one of those corals that’s best avoided by most people, but ive been under the impression that, among lots of “best avoided” fish and inverts of the past, that gonios were much more sturdy and hardy these days. Are they actually better than before, or are they still one of those things that’s at best, on borrowed time in a tank, and might be good for 4, 5, 6months, and then start to waste away? If so, is it known what the specific and unmet differences that have caused them to die off when everything else is doing fantastic? Do they absolutely have to be fed in order to survive long-term?
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Not that I remember. However, if it was spooked, it would get itself between rocks and extend it dorsal spine to jam itself in. A defensive maneuver, I suppose. No harm, though. Yeah, I could see that becoming an issue in unusual circumstances, and taking apart part of the rock work in a reef would be quite an annoyance, as opposed to a FOWLR. I’d just have to make sure I get one soon, before I have to strip tanks down to move them, that way if it’s not working out I’ll ALREADY be taking down the rock work, and won’t have to do it separately just to get it out! Lol
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Awesome, thats good to hear! Did it ever move rocks around?
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I’ve always heard sargassum triggers are generally reef safe. I don’t know if that includes shrimp and stuff, or what...or even how accurate that is. Does anyone know?
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Does anyone have any experience with flashlight fish care? I’m especially interested in treatments. Bioluminescent things like flashlights and pinecone fish can’t take many normal meds, so I’d like to find out any info that could help in those circumstance. These are also both delicate fish, so that also makes the med situation more difficult. I’m not aware of ANY meds that pinecones can safely take. Of course nothing antibacterial. I’ve heard it’s a good idea to treat all new flashlight fish with prazipro, so I guess flashlights can handle that, but that’s the extent of my knowledge on the subject.
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You’re really selling me on these reefLEDS!!!
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On illuminas? I started watching a couple videos back before I got it, but it didn’t take long for them to lose me lol. I’ll take a look again tho. It’ll take a miracle for me to stick with it, though. GOSKN5 is really getting me hyped up on those reefLEDs! Lol
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Thanks so much!!! I just joined there and posted on the thread
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Awesome, that’s what I like to hear:) I’m guessing you have the 90s, for your 180gallon right? I’m thinking the 90s would be too much for my 55, or 75 when I switch over, and that I should go with the 50s, if I do go with these reefLEDS, right?
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Does anyone know anything about the fixtures I mentioned? If anyone has had first hand experience, are they actually good fixtures, or is my experience the norm. They both work the same way as far as what i don’t like about them, so I’d imagine that’s not just a crazy coincidental problem that both just happen to have.
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Do you use the power supply it came with? If so, have you ever had any issues at all? I’ve heard that it’s the Chinese power supplies that orphek, reefbrite, and similar strips come with, that can be the problematic aspect at times, and apparently even potentially dangerous.
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Actually, I should probably ask if anyone else has any experience with either of those 2 fixtures(Solaris i-5, and vertex illumina), and knows anything about them?
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Thank you so much for the input, it’s been extremely helpful!
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I think I’ll steer clear of the black boxes. I wasn’t even familiar with that term until about 2days before your message mentioning them. From what I was told, they’re not what I would want to bother getting for my needs. I mentioned the 2 fixtures I have in the previous post, and if anyone is familiar with those, I THINK I don’t have any difficulty understanding, and using those, although there’s always a chance I just don’t understand them at ALL, and they somehow ARE better than I think lol. From pictures I see, I almost feel like I MUST be just unable to work them properly, but everything seems perfectly self explanatory, and nothing is confusing at all, so I don’t see how I could possibly be just misunderstanding them, or overlooking something, so I feel like the pics and videos must be misleading, or maybe both fixtures just happened to be damaged in the exact same way, so that the LEDS have just lost some of their potential, or something.
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It’s funny you mention arctic T-247, cause that’s what I was about to buy from someone, but at the last minute, right when I was about to send them the money, they said they dropped and broke them while getting them out of a box, or moving them, or something, so then I had to keep looking.
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I’d have a hard time going much over 400. i guess I could work at going a little higher if absolutely necessary. Ive wasted $hundreds and $hundreds on 2 different fixtures I bought from people(*no offense if this is seen by them, they do WORK perfectly, I just don’t find their lighting capabilities attractive). One of them is a vertex illumina, and the other is a Solaris I-5(I believe the American version, not the messed up Chinese version) (pics 1&2 are the illumina, and 3&4 are the Solaris)
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See, that’s too much for me lol. That’s why I sort of hate LEDs...you need a degree just to set them up and work with them! I don’t want to worry about adjusting the rainbow, just white and blue...aren’t all those colors included in the blue and white LEDs, anyway? I really don’t want to deal with, especially be forced to deal with adjusting additional stuff in order to have a light work well/look good. Want to just turn it on, and at most have to adjust the brightness and the blue/white levels. Anything more is just confusion to me, and ways I can screw it up! lol I really didn’t like even worrying about balancing all the different possible wavelengths in Is g. T5 bulbs. That’s why for the longest time I just used that very generic brand of bulbs with one kind of blue/purple called “actinic”, and one 50/50 called “50/50”! With the right ratio it looked absolutely beautiful, and was as good for corals as anything else I’ve dealt with, or seen first-hand. Not as beautiful as some tanks I’ve seen pictures of, but after halides, I’ve never expected to have the best looking, top of the line, lighting systems.
