tom39

I think that Hanna checkers are great and use them to monitor Alk, CA and P04. But everyone is different as you will see. As for your question about the alk tester, I choose to monitor it using the dkh scale but it all depends on how you want to see your reading displayed.

My concern would be the affects of weight over time and that the stand would not hold up long term. Looking at the stand, it appears that each level is about 48”x24”. A frag tank, that size 6” deep would be 30gal each (90g total). The sump at only 8” deep would be 40g, making your total water volume 130g. A gallon of sea water is 8.6# making the total weight of the water 1,118#. It may not sound like that much weight but I wouldn’t try it even if you reinforced it. Plus the cost to reinforce that stand wouldn’t be much less than buying the steel and welding up a rack specifically made for that application. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have had great success with Sicce pumps, have you considered a Syncra HF 10.0 or 12.0? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What type of lighting are you using? Do your lights provide a spectrum of UV light? Certainly not an authority in this subject but could this be a result of UV degradation of plastic? https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/UV_degradation Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No, not a triangle but something like this. It will keep some of the flow restriction down by using the 45* elbows instead of creating sharp turns. Additionally, if you use a sweep 90* elbow the angle is more gradual and not as abrupt. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Have you considered the use of two 45* elbows to get the alignment right?

I realize that this post is over 3 weeks old but I thought I would still share. My go-to source for most all of my PVC fittings is: https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/ The pricing is great and the shipping is reasonable and quick.

My suggestion would be to Google search Herbie full siphon overflow. IMO, trying to run a full siphon without a backup is a bit risky unless the water volume that is contained within your return section is less than what would overflow your main display. Try this link: http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/ HIH, Tom G Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Every time I try and mount an Ecotech pump driver, I always find that the 8' length of cord that goes between the dry-side and the driver, never seems to be enough length to insure that the driver will be far enough away to not be in danger of being splashed or subjected to saltwater degradation in some fashion. So I in an effort to find a solution I made it my goal to find a way to extend my Ecotech MP40QD cable. At first I attempted to contact Ecotech and see if they could help me. The response that I got was that they could lengthen the cable for me but that I would have to send the dry-side into them for service. I am very confident that what they were proposing would certainly work but the issue that I had with their plan was that, what they were providing was not an extension cable but that they would cut the cable of my new QD pump and splice in a length of cord. In other words, what they were doing was only good for 1 pump and if I had a pump failure, I would have pay for them to do it again. I didn't like that Idea at all. For one the cost for them to lengthen 1 cord was $50. By the time I had them lengthen 3 pumps (2 for immediate use and 1 for a backup) and pay to ship them both directions, I would have about $200 into it. Back to the drawling board I go..... My next idea was to scrounge through my box of junk and use the cords from old dry-side pumps and and make my own extension cable. The problem was that I apparently discarded or gave away my old MP40 dry-sides and could not find anyone that was willing part with any worn out or broken dry-sides that they had. Back to the drawling board I go..... My new modified my plan was to purchase some 10 conductor - 22 gauge shielded cable, 2 pair of Molex 10-pin connectors and a crimp tool and make my own cables. It took me a few tries to become proficient at getting the wire stripped back at the right length and making sure that the end was properly inserted in the tool. But once I did it a few times everything went well and I finished the cables without a problem. My final product works perfect and I could not be happier. The cable that I made provides me an additional 5' of length which will allow me to house my driver in my equipment closet away from the possibility of any degradation caused by saltwater. Thanks for looking, Tom G

As others have indicated prior, use your magnetic glass cleaner instead of putting your hand and arm in the water. Just cut a small piece of the eraser a little larger than your magnetic glass cleaner and place it under your cleaner sandwiching it between the cleaner and the glass. Because of its small size It should not displace enough water to disturb you overflow.

I contracted Dinos in a 20L coral only tank a while back; best I can tell is that I picked them up from a frag I introduced to the tank. During my initial attack on the Dinos I tried everything from limited feeding, lights out, water changes and even removal of the sandbed and nothing worked. One of my my last ditch efforts to rid the tank of Dinos, was to do weekly 100% water changes, which included scrubbing the rocks and rinsing them in fresh SW and then scrubbing the tank in my laundry sink and then rinsing and soaking it and all of the equipment with a 20% bleach solution for 30min (that really knocks it back) and then putting everything back together after a RODI rinse and soak.But even that did not solve the problem. I did however finally find a solution and since then I have rid my tank of Dinos. So the 3 recommendations I would provide, besides tossing all living things in the tank and then nuking everything you want to keep with bleach and acid and starting over would be to: 1. Add an Algae Turf Scrubber (ATS) to you tank if you have the room. I have one on my main tank and I have nothing but good results and I swear by them. It works under the same principals as a refugium where you purposefully grow algae in a containment area. The algae sucks up the excess nutrients and when the crop is ready, you harvest the algae, which removes the excess nutrients which are trapped in the algae. This method is not initially cheap but it does work and in my opinion, the overall and long-term health of the tank will improve. 2. My other suggestion, which I used on my small 20L coral only tank, (where adding an ATS was just not an option) was to try Vibrant Marine. My decision to give this stuff a try came after I read a thread on RC ( http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2307000) which at the time was only 4129 posts long and spanned almost 4yrs. For my situation it worked and I no longer have a Dino problem. However, as it usually tends to happen, when you remove 1 problem another will be there to take its place and that is how I now have a slight case of hair algae. But that is welcomed in comparison to Dinos. One note with the use of Vibrant is that my corals did not like it and the one coral that I had that was not healthy did not end up making it through the treatment. 3. My final suggestion and in my opinion something you should do no matter what path you choose, would be to read the thread on RC to gain a bit of an understanding of what you are trying to accomplish in your attack against Dino's - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2307000. Be prepared though, it is long and when you get to posts 2507 to 2519 you will wish that you had paid more attention in Biology class ( http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2307000&page=101 ). But it is definitely in my opinion worth the read. Lastly and unfortunately, as most in the hobby will attest to, all tanks are different and from what I have read and researched, there are many different strains of Dinos, so what works for one tank may not work for another. So, good luck with you endeavors. HIH, Tom G

A better pic would definitely help with identification. Are you able to remove it from the tank and get a better picture? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I am not an expert by any means but I find that the Fluke multi-meter basics site is a very helpful tool. You may have already seen it but I thought that I would share since it has a good detailed explanation for testing capacitors. Anyway, here is the link to the Fluke site - http://en-us.fluke.com/training/training-library/test-tools/digital-multimeters/digital-multimeter-fundamentals.html

That looks really nice! Very clean looking. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Were you able to repair this?

When you say "I personally like the color of the algae", what kind of algae are you speaking of? There are many types that have beautiful vibrant colors of algae that you definitely don't want in your tank. Not being able to see the algae, it would be my suggestion to remove the sand from the tank and wash it out with a garden hose as others have indicated to you prior. That may not sound right but it is a proven method to clean sand.

Pull the pipe, pull the seal out, clean and deburr the hole and then press a new seal into place. The uniseal is to be removed and put in the vessel from the outside. When inserting the pipe, I use a bit of spit for lubricant to help it slide in place without putting undue stress on uniseal. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I haven't started a build thread but I thought that I would share my progress and my thoughts on the overflow. I removed the corner overflow, drilled the tank and my granite top, then mock set the tank. Thus far, I am really happy with my decision to go with this overflow and I am loving it's low-profile presence in the tank. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

This is definitely a "Gotta Have"

Do you have a pic of an example of what you are looking for?

How big is this cube? I would love to see a pic.

Well I finally pulled the trigger and bought the overflow. I am super excited about this decision and can't wait to see how it works out. Thank you everyone for the advice and helping me what I hope to be a excellent addition to my upcoming build. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Thanks everyone for the advice and comments. Since I am not seeing a downside with its use, I think that I am going to go for it. My upcomming build is a Marineland 150DD and it has the factory corner overflow which I think is ugly and detracts from the tank and I am going to remove it. The plus with this system is the full siphon drain. I have been running a bean animal full siphon on my current tank and also like the idea of doing the same on this one. Again thanks for the advice and comments, Tom G

Big Country and Jon, are the drains standard PVC sized and glue joints or do you have to go with flexable lines and clamp it?

Has anyone seen this in person? The pricing is great but I am skeptical about the molded drains verses the former design where they used bulkhead fittings. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/16-shadow-overflow-synergy-reef.html