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About tom39

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    Biking, camping, hiking, woodworking, auto repair & reefing.

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  1. IME, for the most part you can, its only when you are trying to piggyback an RO membrane that the GPD value must match. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  2. You will not be able to use the BRS 150gpd Water Saver kit as it would require that you have 2 - 75gpd membranes. You could however convert your system to a 180gpd system by adding an additional 90gpd membrane. However, the 90gpd membranes are expensive and not easily sourced and if it was me, I would convert the system to 2 - 100gpd membranes for the same price as 1 - 90gpd membrane. But since you just installed a new 90gpd membrane there would not be of any benefit in cost to convert to anything else. The only items you will need to convert to 180gpd are: (Please note that the links are for representation and reference only) IMO, an insanely over-priced membrane - https://www.amazon.com/Spectrapure-90-GPD-Percent-Rejection-Membrane/dp/B016MN05IU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=filmtec+ro+membrane+90+gpd&qid=1550106772&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0 A membrane housing - https://www.amazon.com/FS-TFC-Membrane-Quick-Connect-Fittings-Menbrane/dp/B071DY62J1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=filmtec+ro+membrane+housing&qid=1550106848&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 A set of housing clips - https://www.amazon.com/Reverse-Osmosis-membrane-diameter-membranes/dp/B0185DRO66/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ro+membrane+housing+clips&qid=1550106894&s=gateway&sr=8-4 A bit of 1/4" RO hose - https://www.amazon.com/PureSec-4TU-WHI-Certified-70°F-120PSI-150°F-60PSI/dp/B01MT559ZE/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=1%2F4"+ro+hose&qid=1550106990&s=gateway&sr=8-12 Hooking the 2 membranes together is simple but IMO you will have to have at least 55-60psi water entering the first membrane if you want the membranes to be efficient - The waste water from the 1st membrane is fed into the inlet of the 2nd membrane. The waste water from the 2nd membrane exits the housing and is directed to through the flow restrictor (NOTE**Only one restrictor is needed**) and is discarded. If you want to use your flush (Highly recommended), only 1 flush valve is needed and should be plumbed so that the flow restrictor is by-passed when the flush valve is opened. The product water from both membranes is collected and is fed through the DI. Hope is helps, Tom
  3. Well having just read this thread, I am now curious of how the repair turned out.
  4. Additionally, the link to be emailed when the item is available is broken and will not allow an email address to be submitted. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  5. In one of my previous tanks I was able to control the numbers of mushrooms by injecting the unwanted through the center and into the base with muriatic acid using a syringe I purchased from a pharmacy. In my case, for much of the purge, I pulled the rock, injected the base of the unwanted, then did a quick rinse of the rock before placing the rock back in the tank. Once I got the numbers under control, I simply injected the unwanted while they were still in the tank. Just be very careful with the use of the acid (see warning labels on bottle) and also be mindful that its use may have an affect on your tanks alkalinity and PH. Additionally, the toxins in some mushrooms are very powerful and can cause negative effects to a person if not handled properly. I found this out the hard way and since my mishap, I always wear gloves and eye protection when working with any corals. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  6. Website shows that ROX carbon promotion is on backorder. Any idea of when it will be available? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks, I am very happy with the results. Not worrying about an overflow problem is certainly a plus. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  8. Yes, just a little bit above the surface. With it being above the surface, it allows me to hear that there is an issue with the flow through the valve. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  9. tom39

    PVC Sheets

    How would you glue or bond the seams together? I have used this sheet material for many projects for my tank (Mostly catch pans and stands) but have only screwed and stapled it together as I have not found an adhesive, glue or cement that would bond the material to itself. If you do know of a particular glue, adhesive or cement that will bond the material, please share. Tom
  10. My setup utilizes an external skimmer that is housed in a closet to the right of my DT. To feed the skimmer, water is pumped from the sump, which is located under the DT, through 2 walls and to the skimmer. The return takes a similar route and is returned to the sump. The fall in plumbing from the output of the skimmer to the water surface in the sump is about 16" and travels about 36". During the return to the sump, the water picks up a bit of speed and prior to building my defuser caused quite a bit of noise, salt creep, micro-bubbles and splashing. In an effort to reduce all 4 of these negative effects I put together about 5 renditions before settling on this one, which by the way works flawlessly. How it works: The valve at the end of the pipe is the main point of exit. This valve is used to throttle the exit of water to allow only 99% of water pass. This causes the water to climb in height inside the defuser until it reaches the 90* elbows (bypass line) where the remaining 1% of water is allowed to trickle to the water surface of the sump. Because there is so little water going down the bypass line it tends to run down the walls and create only the smallest of streams entering the sump. This effect creates no nose, salt creep, micro-bubbles or splashing. Anyway, I thought that I would share what I have come up with in case anyone who uses an external skimmer has a similar situation and is looking for a solution. Thanks for looking, Tom G It was really hard to get a pick while it was installed but I hope they help with the understanding of how it works.
  11. Were you able to hang the light as you intended? If not, did you happen to find the size and pitch of the mounting hole in the light? I have an idea of how to make it work but knowing the size and pitch is a major part.
  12. Is there water in the tank? Or is this a new build?
  13. What is wrong with the pump? If the pump is not performing well, have you considered just replacing the impeller? If I remember correctly, the last impeller I bought from CoralVue was only $85. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  14. When I purchase a coral, most times knowing where it origionally came from and what pests it may contain is an uncertainty. Because of this, I cut it free of the plug, dip it and re-mount on a known pest free plug. The used plug, I then process for corals at a later date. So I wouldn't classify cleaning a used frag plug or resurfacing the face as paranoia. I feel that it's good husbandry practices to insure, as much as possible, that you don't introduce unwanted pests into your system. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  15. With a bit more tweeking, I finally finished my automatic water change programming. So now to do a water change the hardest part of the whole thing is carrying the water into the house but soon I will automate the refill end of it and then I will be able to sit on the couch and not have to hardly lift a finger. Anyway, here is the final programming for all of my outlets - MAINT_WC (1st Virtual Switch) Fallback OFF Set OFF MAINT_WC2 (2nd Virtual switch) Fallback OFF Set OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then ON Defer 005:00 Then ON Water change pump Fallback OFF Set OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then ON If Output MAINT_WC2 = ON Then OFF Defer 001:00 Then ON Defer 000:10 then OFF Return Pump Fallback ON Set ON If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Defer 000:05 Then OFF Defer 000:05 Then ON PS Feed Fallback ON Set ON If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Defer 000:15 Then OFF Defer 000:45 Then ON ATS Feed Fallback ON Set ON If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Defer 000:10 Then OFF Defer 000:30 Then ON Main Heater Fallback OFF Set OFF If D_Tmp < 79.0 Then ON If D_Tmp > 80.0 Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF Defer 001:00 Then ON Secondary Heater Fallback OFF Set OFF If D_Tmp < 77.0 Then ON If D_Tmp > 78.0 Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF Defer 001:00 then ON ATO Fallback OFF Set OFF If ATO_5_ CLOSED Then ON If ATO_5_ OPEN Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF Defer 002:00 Then ON Min Time 010:00 Then OFF
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