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Everything posted by tom39

  1. I have always found someone to tank sit for me. Usually a neighbors kid or a college student that is looking for a little spending money. I don't however leave anything to chance or to their discretion. i do this by leaving simple but detailed instruction, have a controller installed on my tank and I also put the following in place to insure there is not a mishap. 1. My ATO has a 10g tank that gets auto filled 2x a week via a storage tank in my garage. This way, no more than 10g of fresh water can be introduced into the tank at any time 2. The lights are automatic but can be controlled remotely if the need arises. 3. The skimmer has collection vessel that also has a float that will shut the skimmer down if it overflows.If this occurs, I get an alert from my controller informing me of a potential issue. 4. I replace the filter socks prior to leaving and make sure the feeding is light while I am gone so the chances of them clogging is low. 5. I pre-package frozen food in 4oz specimen cups and keep them in the freezer. The instructions are that the fish get fed 1x a day while the lights are on and all they have to do is pour some water in the cup, wait for the food to melt and then pour the food in the tank. 6. I leave Nori and Veggie chips near the tank and the rule is that they can attach either one to one or both of the chip clips in the tank anytime they want. I currently feed this treat 2-3x a day so I am not afraid that there would be an issue with feeding too much. Plus, I don't leave an unlimited supply. 7. I pay them well. I find that if I do this, they feel accountable and will take the job seriously. 8. Place a wifi or web cam focused on your tank to monitor your tank and room (tell them that you have done this or you will send a message that you don't trust them or are just a weirdo creeper). Some of the new cameras available are super easy to set up and I even got one that I set mine up so that it senses motion and I get an alert to notify me that there is movement in the room. I can then watch that they have fed the fish or have a visual if they have an issue that I might be able to solve by having the visual. That's about it. I make it easy and I have never had an issue.
  2. ^^^ This is the best advice. Additionally, some things to remember is that drywall is not structural and a raw edge of drywall will degrade very quickly when an object rubs against it or water is introduced to it. When I ran my plumbing through the wall, I reinforced the opening by using a piece of plywood and/or sheet pvc affixed to the wall where the pipe entered or exited. (The pic is where I reinforced the conduit exiting the wall with a piece of pvc sheet material. It has definitely helped insure that my drywall is protected. Also, in an effort to make sure the piece held in place and the screws did not pull out, I inserted drywall anchors into the drywall prior to adding screws.) As for making holes, dpassar12 suggested as I had done and used a hole saw to drill the holes in the drywall. Just remember that drilling through the drywall is not a race and the slower you go the better the chance that you will get a clean hole without any blowout when you punch through the other side.
  3. That is a really big skimmer and without a doubt a beast! But I am not sure that your system would even come close to having enough bio-load for the skimmer to be effective with what you stated you have planned. A quick search has indicated that the XP-8000ext is rated for a 800 gallon heavy bio-load system up to 1200 gallon if the bio-load is light. That's almost 3X the total water volume you have indicated for your planned (both tanks combined) system. I hate to say it but my suggestion would be to consider other options and forgo the use of the skimmer.
  4. IME, for the most part you can, its only when you are trying to piggyback an RO membrane that the GPD value must match. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  5. You will not be able to use the BRS 150gpd Water Saver kit as it would require that you have 2 - 75gpd membranes. You could however convert your system to a 180gpd system by adding an additional 90gpd membrane. However, the 90gpd membranes are expensive and not easily sourced and if it was me, I would convert the system to 2 - 100gpd membranes for the same price as 1 - 90gpd membrane. But since you just installed a new 90gpd membrane there would not be of any benefit in cost to convert to anything else. The only items you will need to convert to 180gpd are: (Please note that the links are for representation and reference only) IMO, an insanely over-priced membrane - https://www.amazon.com/Spectrapure-90-GPD-Percent-Rejection-Membrane/dp/B016MN05IU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=filmtec+ro+membrane+90+gpd&qid=1550106772&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0 A membrane housing - https://www.amazon.com/FS-TFC-Membrane-Quick-Connect-Fittings-Menbrane/dp/B071DY62J1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=filmtec+ro+membrane+housing&qid=1550106848&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 A set of housing clips - https://www.amazon.com/Reverse-Osmosis-membrane-diameter-membranes/dp/B0185DRO66/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ro+membrane+housing+clips&qid=1550106894&s=gateway&sr=8-4 A bit of 1/4" RO hose - https://www.amazon.com/PureSec-4TU-WHI-Certified-70°F-120PSI-150°F-60PSI/dp/B01MT559ZE/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=1%2F4"+ro+hose&qid=1550106990&s=gateway&sr=8-12 Hooking the 2 membranes together is simple but IMO you will have to have at least 55-60psi water entering the first membrane if you want the membranes to be efficient - The waste water from the 1st membrane is fed into the inlet of the 2nd membrane. The waste water from the 2nd membrane exits the housing and is directed to through the flow restrictor (NOTE**Only one restrictor is needed**) and is discarded. If you want to use your flush (Highly recommended), only 1 flush valve is needed and should be plumbed so that the flow restrictor is by-passed when the flush valve is opened. The product water from both membranes is collected and is fed through the DI. Hope is helps, Tom
  6. Well having just read this thread, I am now curious of how the repair turned out.
  7. Additionally, the link to be emailed when the item is available is broken and will not allow an email address to be submitted. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  8. In one of my previous tanks I was able to control the numbers of mushrooms by injecting the unwanted through the center and into the base with muriatic acid using a syringe I purchased from a pharmacy. In my case, for much of the purge, I pulled the rock, injected the base of the unwanted, then did a quick rinse of the rock before placing the rock back in the tank. Once I got the numbers under control, I simply injected the unwanted while they were still in the tank. Just be very careful with the use of the acid (see warning labels on bottle) and also be mindful that its use may have an affect on your tanks alkalinity and PH. Additionally, the toxins in some mushrooms are very powerful and can cause negative effects to a person if not handled properly. I found this out the hard way and since my mishap, I always wear gloves and eye protection when working with any corals. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  9. Website shows that ROX carbon promotion is on backorder. Any idea of when it will be available? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks, I am very happy with the results. Not worrying about an overflow problem is certainly a plus. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  11. Yes, just a little bit above the surface. With it being above the surface, it allows me to hear that there is an issue with the flow through the valve. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  12. tom39

    PVC Sheets

    How would you glue or bond the seams together? I have used this sheet material for many projects for my tank (Mostly catch pans and stands) but have only screwed and stapled it together as I have not found an adhesive, glue or cement that would bond the material to itself. If you do know of a particular glue, adhesive or cement that will bond the material, please share. Tom
  13. My setup utilizes an external skimmer that is housed in a closet to the right of my DT. To feed the skimmer, water is pumped from the sump, which is located under the DT, through 2 walls and to the skimmer. The return takes a similar route and is returned to the sump. The fall in plumbing from the output of the skimmer to the water surface in the sump is about 16" and travels about 36". During the return to the sump, the water picks up a bit of speed and prior to building my defuser caused quite a bit of noise, salt creep, micro-bubbles and splashing. In an effort to reduce all 4 of these negative effects I put together about 5 renditions before settling on this one, which by the way works flawlessly. How it works: The valve at the end of the pipe is the main point of exit. This valve is used to throttle the exit of water to allow only 99% of water pass. This causes the water to climb in height inside the defuser until it reaches the 90* elbows (bypass line) where the remaining 1% of water is allowed to trickle to the water surface of the sump. Because there is so little water going down the bypass line it tends to run down the walls and create only the smallest of streams entering the sump. This effect creates no nose, salt creep, micro-bubbles or splashing. Anyway, I thought that I would share what I have come up with in case anyone who uses an external skimmer has a similar situation and is looking for a solution. Thanks for looking, Tom G It was really hard to get a pick while it was installed but I hope they help with the understanding of how it works.
  14. Were you able to hang the light as you intended? If not, did you happen to find the size and pitch of the mounting hole in the light? I have an idea of how to make it work but knowing the size and pitch is a major part.
  15. Is there water in the tank? Or is this a new build?
  16. What is wrong with the pump? If the pump is not performing well, have you considered just replacing the impeller? If I remember correctly, the last impeller I bought from CoralVue was only $85. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  17. When I purchase a coral, most times knowing where it origionally came from and what pests it may contain is an uncertainty. Because of this, I cut it free of the plug, dip it and re-mount on a known pest free plug. The used plug, I then process for corals at a later date. So I wouldn't classify cleaning a used frag plug or resurfacing the face as paranoia. I feel that it's good husbandry practices to insure, as much as possible, that you don't introduce unwanted pests into your system. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  18. With a bit more tweeking, I finally finished my automatic water change programming. So now to do a water change the hardest part of the whole thing is carrying the water into the house but soon I will automate the refill end of it and then I will be able to sit on the couch and not have to hardly lift a finger. Anyway, here is the final programming for all of my outlets - MAINT_WC (1st Virtual Switch) Fallback OFF Set OFF MAINT_WC2 (2nd Virtual switch) Fallback OFF Set OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then ON Defer 005:00 Then ON Water change pump Fallback OFF Set OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then ON If Output MAINT_WC2 = ON Then OFF Defer 001:00 Then ON Defer 000:10 then OFF Return Pump Fallback ON Set ON If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Defer 000:05 Then OFF Defer 000:05 Then ON PS Feed Fallback ON Set ON If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Defer 000:15 Then OFF Defer 000:45 Then ON ATS Feed Fallback ON Set ON If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = OFF Then ON Defer 000:10 Then OFF Defer 000:30 Then ON Main Heater Fallback OFF Set OFF If D_Tmp < 79.0 Then ON If D_Tmp > 80.0 Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF Defer 001:00 Then ON Secondary Heater Fallback OFF Set OFF If D_Tmp < 77.0 Then ON If D_Tmp > 78.0 Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF Defer 001:00 then ON ATO Fallback OFF Set OFF If ATO_5_ CLOSED Then ON If ATO_5_ OPEN Then OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then OFF Defer 002:00 Then ON Min Time 010:00 Then OFF
  19. Tou are correct, it doesn't work. I realized that my thought process using a defer statement was flawed. Once i figured that out I started over. I worked on the programming for a few hours last night and I have made a few adjustments to this and other program statements and also added in a second virtual switch with statements that are mainly used as a timer for other switches. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  20. The pump is pulling water from my sump and sending it down the drain. I have an ADL and a sump pan but atm I am manually refilling. So at this point there is no chance for a flood. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  21. I cut and scrape off as much of the coral and glue as possible. Scrub and remove any debris from the plug. Use a belt sander to flatten the mounting surface. Soak in a bleach solution, rinse and air dry. Then re-use Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  22. If you would, please critique the below program that I am looking to use to program a pump. 1. The output is to remain off until triggered by the action of a virtual switch (MAINT_WC). 2. Once triggered, the output is to remain off or defer for 60 sec 3. After the 60 sec defer period, the output would turn on for 4 min, then remain off. Here is the programming - Fallback OFF Set OFF If Output MAINT_WC = ON Then ON Defer 001:00 Then ON Min Time 005:00 Then OFF Thanks for looking, Tom G Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  23. As I understood it, the gentleman speaking was referring to a name change as it pertains to the Australian market. Not getting the idea that it is a global change for all. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. Hadn't heard that bit of information but following to see if others had Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  25. Here is a very informative link to helping identify if glass is tempered or not. https://economyglass.com.au/how-do-i-know-if-my-glass-is-toughenedtempered-safety-glass/ Additionally, here is a video on how to use a laptop and a pair of 3D glasses to identify tempered glass. I am not going to vouch for or to the validity of these links but I have tried the 3D glasses one and it seems to hold true. As for the other, I can't see any reason to not believe that it is also true. But it is the internet so, it is anyone's guess. Just for laughs, here is one of my favorite commercials attesting to the idea that the internet cannot always be trusted - As for adding an overflow, if it were my tank, I would abandon the hole in the bottom and drill the back glass if possible, for a 3 pipe full siphon overflow (Bean Animal). As an example, I am currently using a Reef Synergy Shadow overflow and have found it to be very well constructed and absolutely dead silent. Drilling a tank is easy and as long as you take your time and prepare well, everything should turn out just fine. If it is still overwhelming you, I'm sure that there are a number of members (including myself) that would be willing to help you with it and even double that amount that would loan you a drill bit for just about any size bulkhead needed. Lastly, here is a video from BRS that provides fairly good advice for drilling a tank. The drilling process starts about the 1min 50sec mark. Additionally, if you are interested, I believe that I have a BRS 16" internal overflow box (used and similar to one shown in the BRS video) in storage that your are welcome to if wanted. Bonjour
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