gmerek2

27% more cost for RC. Although the cost of calcium and mag would be hard to calculate to bring the IO up to RC stats. Great price ERC Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need to give reef crystals another try. But I quit 4 years ago because I saw extra crud lining my garbage can. I mix it in the garbage can. I’m wondering if that is precipitate is from the extra stuffs in it, making it harder to dissolve?

That’s so cool

Holy smokes is that pods in the sieve

Try not to over complicate it just do smaller but more often water changes with switching to IO. It’s cheaper, has all of the same stuffs in it, maybe just a tad less. Just monitor the big 3 during transition keep them on track and you will be fine. If you dose regularly and see a number creeping down a tad fast then just dose more of that to try to keep it in line. I don’t think trace element is anything to worry about until things are so overgrown.

I got plenty of pocillopora if you need any for it

Very healthy and pretty

I have two kessil over my 65g they are growing acros nicely. I have to run them full blast to keep par at 200. Had to buy them because of the shimmering Looks awesome In my dark living room. If price isn’t a factor and don’t give a darn about shimmer get radions as there is a lot of forums out there on settings for acros. Proven fixture for sure

Tank too young I had a lot of acro problems until my tank got older I couldn’t even explain why. Every tank is different but I couldn’t keep acros till month 6 Or7. Nutrients look good just keep them detectable

Looks like purple stylophora to me. Yea the flesh or polyps are ballooned. General stress in my experience

All you read about is people bragging about their high par but I also have difficulty doing it. If things are 100% happy it’s achievable in my tank but if they aren’t up to 100% on the health meter I feel like they can’t handle it. The high par definitely brings some extra colors out I have not seen in my tank though. As far as the blue goes I don’t run my tanks all blue as it bothers my eyes and I don’t like the look as much. So the only opinion i have on that matter is that there is more than one way to skin a cat. The acro colors are close to where they need to be if not spot on so there is no need to adjust to more blue spectrum

I had one kill a new addition so I won’t ever buy one again

Buy the captive bred biota ones they come wired to like both pods and pellets and may quickly learn to take frozen. Mandarins In a 45, especially a pair will lose weight quick. The captive bred ones will be your only chance :( unfortunately I added a pair in my 65 and they had the pod population wiped out in a week. Removed them to my larger tank when lateral line showed first signs Of weight loss, to keep it on track my tanks both have 1 anemone

http://wamas.org/forums/topic/84474-emerald-crab-eating-sps-polyps/ Mine still eats the polyps off my birds nest all the time. Doesn’t seem to harm the coral so he is still in there

+1 Yea this might be a situation to not over think it. Just slowly slowly raise the alk. Everything is constantly slowly adjusting and changing as things grow. It’s good to consistantly test and adapt with it

The only problems I have had with the fish you listed were my CBB requires fresh frozen food and requires it often. Paying a fish sitter to come by for me and drop in a frozen chunk once per day while I’m gone gets a little costly for a $40 fish (once a day isn’t enough in my tank but enough to keep it alive while I’m gone) also the other thing I’m struggling with is mandarins. I had rescued 4 of them looking so skinny and showing lateral bone line at LFS they are rarely fat at LFS anyhow as they quickly deplete any pod population in the 10g LFS and are purged of food at supplier. So long story short I got them skinny, they fatten up quick and grow well in my pod loaded tanks and then some went MIA for no reason. The good news is that two are still alive but it’s only been 6 months. So if you are set on them despite the warnings like I was I recommend buying the captive bred biota mjandarins. There is really exciting talk about them eating pellets and being all around stronger. I also recommend buying a used CBB as I had a ton of trouble finding a healthy one then had trouble getting it to eat frozen. I hate to start off so negative but my CBB has consumed so much of my dang time I just had to go on a rant about it lol. Anyhow Welcome back! To Wamas at least! Just follow your dream build, work out the kinks and go with it. Most importantly thank you for your service!

I probably should mention though, seems to me Clowns will host anything they can adjust to and is close to where they call home. I had a set host frogspawn then moved on to torch after(2 BTA were in tank) Again though that’s great that they are hanging around the BTA as I think they are just “testing the waters” lol

If they are hanging around it like that they are going to host it when their slime coats adjust and it starts to feel like a back rub instead of stings. Mine hung around for several months also before they started hosting (regular clowns)

Wow!! That thing is awesome. That’s all I use on my tanks. Get it dialed in and Watch your nutrient levels drop!

When my tank was new they were brown. As the water cleaned up the turned green. I also noticed when the light isn’t strong enough they brown up

I’m so a fan of small bio load and large water I agree with reef bum. It makes it easier in the long run for controlling algae during the new tank years. Right now my tank runs to clean but it’s loaded with corals up taking nutrients and only has 14 fish in 240g

The only time I had a nitrate problem was when my skimmer wasn’t working properly.

I could see how my trim would collect moisture at some point. Then getting squeezed out when moved

Based on my experience acros can take more par with T5. If I turn my ocean revive up passed 250 par I see problems. My Kessil tank grow acros just as fast but I lost a lot of time fine tuning them (run them full blast) So my opinion wrapped up into a quick sentence: LEDs have a learning curve with all the adjustability but can be just as good as T5, where as T5 is a set it and forget it. Now I have never owned radion and there is a lot of info out there on them so that will be the way to get out of the adjustability learning curve.

Yea I have the eheim everyday fish feeder also. It helped me a lot to use pellets. As a large flake would clog the feeder window and would stop all feeding.