jaddc

If it were me, I'd guess that the nutrients that are introduced via feeding are being removed faster than the LPS can absorb them. I base that thought on the fact that the parameters and lighting are normal, and accepting the assumption that nothing is preying on the LPS. You can test that by keeping the return pumps off for an hour or two post feeding and see if the corals perk up after a week.

+1 on CoralRx

Iodine (Lugol's) is a disinfectant (or antiseptic, depending on where it goes), and it kills microbial organisms (e.g. bacteria). Lugol's also provides free iodine. For corals and macroalgae, free iodine enhances color and other features (up to a point, and then it is lethal). So people use Lugols to get rid of bad bacteria and help the coral recover (great to use right after fragging when bacteria can infect to fresh cut tissue). Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizer and you also use it as a disinfectant (it works in a different way than iodine). It can kill macroalgae. Here is just one example: http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/aquainfo/algae_peroxide.html

I wouldn't worry about putting the rock back into the tank. The cycle will be slight if at all. The bacteria are quite hardy. It takes a while for fresh water to permiate into the rock. It may take an overnight soak to get to the core. Maybe a power head will help.

Very cool stuff. I think that hits the nail on the head. I think the biggest thing on his side is time. Over time, you can really get a tank dialed in using many different methods. I'm not sure what his "home made" supplements are or why they are better. I'm skeptical about that.

I have work to do...but meh... rather think about our hobby :-) Consistency. In the vast ocean, the local levels of nutrients rarely change (if they do it is because of a severe weather event or current shift). Wild coral grows well and fast (relatively) because nothing changes significantly over a long period of time. Coral would grow and live forever were it not for the competition for light and space (and...humans). Great tanks are, at their core, consistent. Now, how one one achieves that consistency is a matter of opinion, skill, and money. Coral can put up with a lot of stress (some more than others). Some SPS can survive low Alk for quite some time. But if a coral is putting up with stress then it is not growing and colored to its full potential. Of course, stress can come from numbers that are too high or low (and those are easy to notice). However, over the long term, rapidly changing numbers cause just as much stress. No matter how one does it -- ZeoVit, kalk, dosers, water changes, voodoo -- the goal is to aim for the center of the target (accuracy) and keep your aim there without any drift (precision). Only then will the coral stop stressin' and start growin'.

Not sure if they can in a controlled environment -- but with fish present then certainly not since gametes are tasty to fish.

Here is a good thread elsewhere: http://www.cincyreef.com/showthread.php?38660-How-to-Stop-Tissue-Necrosis-on-your-SPS

That's a great point.

And be sure to test your new saltwater before you add it and compare it to the water you just siphoned off your tank. That will give you some insight.

The kalk precipitate does cause trouble. In my set-up I elevate my pump to dispense only saturated solution and not the precipitate. Here's a how-to video on top off water Kalk But of course, worry about Kalk only after you are happy with the ratio of your numbers.

That's how I do it -- and it is easy as store bought apple pie.

Some thoughts. 1) All the test kits use similar chemistry. I would just stick to the kit that you feel comfortable with and make sure you treat it well. If you want to verify results, then bringing a water sample to a LFS is an easy way to do that and cheaper than buying another kit. 2) I always stress that you should be concerned with changes over time rather than an individual result. A low, but constant, Alk reading is not as bad as an erratic Alk level. 3) Since your ratio is a bit out of whack, then just deal with it by being vigilant with water changes -- like you are doing. Measure your levels before and after a WC to see if the WC has any effect. The problem with dosing when the situation is not ideal is that you can end up chasing your tail so to speak. If you raise alk, then Ca may drop. Then you raise Ca and your Alk drops and so on and so on. The water chemistry is a delicate dance with many factors. I see dosing as a maintenance when all is well and you want some cruise control, and not as a cure, but others may disagree. 4) You made an important point that everything in your tanks looks good. You should see a small but constant growth in your SPS (eg. white tips). If you see that, then you are doing fine. If your alk is low and your SPS is healthy but grows slower than average then so what?

The key would be to use a needle and syringe to inject the solution deep into the mushroom. You should inject less than 0.5 ml once a day until it is dead and gone. Slow and steady will ensure the monti doesn't feel a thing. I would try: 1) Vinegar 2) alk raiser (soda ash) 3) Kalk solution All of them should work.

+1 Flow is the key element to successfully growing anything.

No doubt the band saw would be easier would be quicker.

Just a couple of pennies of thoughts. I'm sure there are many coral proprietors like Richard who would chop your corals for you. Alternatively, you could rent a band saw from a hardware store, buy a nice band blade, and throw a beer, BBQ, fish and chips, and chop party. FWIW a diamond ceramic blade on a rotary tool does a fantastic job on small to medium corals if you have a steady hand.

+1 If you are growing algae then any light will do. The more wattage the more algae growth. If your sump if enclosed in a cabinet then consider the heat output when making your choice. Compact fluorescent or LEDs are nice for enclosed sumps because there is less heat than an incandescent.

Alternatively you can start a group buy. BRS is really easy and as an organizer you get a few nice perks. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/customer-center/group-buys

Chlorine is efficiently removed by a carbon filter (think Brita), chloramine is not (which is why cheap water filters are largely a waste in DC). In chloramine areas (like the DC/NOVA area) typically, what we do is add a second, higher-grade, carbon filter to increase contact time to remove the chloramines. If your RODI is set up to remove chloramines, then it will remove chlorine (even when used for a system flush which is happening now in DC/NOVA). Compared to the 4 stage, the additional carbon block of a 5 stage adds more carbon surface area for pre-RO filtration -- never a bad thing if you can spring for it. It will extend the life of your RO membrane. The chloramine kits use a higher grade carbon filter to account for the lower efficiency of chloramine filtering. BRS also installs a bypass so you can rinse your carbon and not clog the high efficiency carbon filter. All that said -- Baltimore, Anne Arundel, and WSSC use chlorine. So you can opt for the cheaper system.

+1 Coral zoologists primarily observe the skeletal structures to differentiate between species. Echinata is a subspecies -- like Acanthastrea echinata or Acropora echinata. The Mussids (the family to which Acans belong) have spiky teeth beneath the flesh that you can feel and the Favids do not. For more info to start the journey search for Scleractinia on Wikipedia.

Cool! I like the rock mixed in with the pukani -- very nice. Enjoy finding new life everyday! I had a chiton that still pops up now and then.

+1 Sponges love bacteria and small plankton.

It think that is generally true. But if you have a FOWLR tank then the temp can be on the cooler side of the temp range. The encrusting life on my rocks did eventually recede and die.

Hey, I used TB Saltwater and loved it. Great deal. If you look at my video and pics (below -- they are old, but you'll get the point) you can see the rock. To your question, it was easy. You get two shipments -- the sand and rock in the first, creatures in the second. Richard sends you all the flight info. I tracked it online (like I was tracking a friends flight) and when the flight landed, I gave it an hour to allow for unload time. I opted to have it ship to BWI because it was cheaper than DCA at the time -- Richard knows best so follow his advice. Then you go to the cargo center which is set up like a UPS or FEDEX depot. Just go to the desk and they will find a manifest for you to sign. Someone brings out the boxes and off you go. The boxes are heavy because of the water. OH and since the airlines play soccer with the box, it may be leaking. So bring a towel or tarp to protect your car. Richard packs well, so your stuff is fine even if the box is soaked through. It is a great way to have an instant aquarium that is full of life. I was finding a bunch of new stuff everyday. Richard is very very generous. Also there is not much of a cycle, which is nice. I think they are best for FOWLR tanks. My experience is similar to what Tom said above. In fact, I received my order in 1/2011 and i JUST now caught and killed my last gorilla crab. He was a smart sucker -- he lost the game, but I respect that he was playing to win. The gorilla crabs are nasty SOBs that will decimate your snail and hermit populations. I also received two mantis shrimp. Very cool creatures but they love to eat everything. Whelks are in the mix, so you may want to pull them out before they eat your other mollusks. I did find a free cute tiger goby hiding in the rock -- that was a bonus. Also a baby urchin was tucked into a crevice. It was cool seeing it grow up. He also tossed in an anemone -- that was a gorgeous creature. I would consider these negatives in the decision. 1) The rock is dense. I mean it is a chunk of limestone. I tried shaping it with a dremel and I might as well be cutting through concrete. 2) Since I was new to the hobby, having instant life meant instant gratification. But battling all the hitchhikers was a pain. Be prepared to pull all of the rock out of tank in order to track down and evict the bad guys. There are traps and stuff but I found it easiest to pull out the rock and go after the crabs, pistol shrimp (you rarely see them -- just hear them) and mantis on my turf. 3) The generosity of Richard leaves little room for frags and coral. My tank was packed to the gills with everything I received. That said, like everything in this hobby, it depends on what you want your tank to be. You can easily buy TBSaltwater and then put in your favorite fish and call it a day. Instant beautiful tank. Cheers