Integral9

how about this one? http://www.fishtanksdirect.com/browseproducts/BlueLine-Velocity-Pump-T1--540-gph-25%27-max-head.html

If you haven't in a while, might be a good time to check the back corners of your sump and vacuum out any detritus that's built up. Also, check your media reactor for detritus build up inside on the screen. Also, if you are not using a filter sock, I would recommend it. It will trap the algae filaments that break loose and help you remove it. A bit non-conventional of a method that I have used before, is to scrub the rocks in the tank with the pump's off. Then take a brine shrimp net and just move it through the water column catching all the free floating algae. Eventually the algae will sink to the bottom, but a quick burst of the pumps will bring it back up. If you have pumps that won't clog easily with some algae, then you can also just hold the net in front of the powerhead and let the pump do all the work. Of course, if the rocks are easily removed from the tank, you could just scrub them in a bucket of tank water.

My powder brown is doing the same thing to my regal hippo. No fin tearing but a good amount of roshambo between the two. I've found that if I can keep an algae sheet in the tank (ie: the tangs don't eat it all in 24 hours) the aggression calms down. But if I miss a day, I'm likely to find the hippo hiding behind a return line or in the rocks and my powder brown being the bully.

Wet paper towel for salt creep. Anything else I use RODI water in a spray bottle and shower squeegee. Spray, wipe and dry the squeegee with a paper towel between wipes.

My favorite is Tucker Barns at Ocean City: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQ-ri_FTz0s

I think you should get another wire to hang your lights with and use all 4 mounting points. The frames most of the lights I've seen will warp under the stress of being hung from 2 opposing corners. As for recovering the toggles... unscrew the bolts and don't worry about the toggles; just leave them in the ceiling and patch the hole. I think every house past it's original owner has a pair or more in their ceilings.

Probably not. But if you can find the bolt covers from the Aquactinics hanging kits, they are very nice. I just drilled a hole large enough to get the toggles through and then when I put up the light, all I had to do was put on the bolt covers and all you see is a wire going into the bolt covers on the ceiling. ..... Well those hanging kits are like needles in a hay stack. Fortunately, this one is exactly like it and cheaper: http://reefledlights.com/shop/hanging-kit/ The bullet shaped bits are the bolt covers and they come a part into 2 peices. One will slide over your toggle bolt (you'll have to remove the toggles first), the rounded side w/ the slot in it will screw into the part that slides over the toggle bolt.

Well it was a brand new APC 750 on a full charge. I bought it that day at Best Buy, took it over to my in-laws house and charged it up to max. Websites I've seen rate the MJ600 (the old style) @ 7.5W and the product manual for the AC50s states it uses 12W. Are you referring to the AC50 power filters? I hate it when companies have 2 different products w/ the same name. http://www.f3images....als/HG10570.pdf I too am surprised I didn't get more. Maybe it's battery needed a couple of cycles before it got going. Also, the pumps I am using are fairly old. So they probably have some additional internal resistances. Here it is: Here is the info about the APC 750s run times by load: Watts Seconds 50 103 100 50 200 22 300 12 400 7 500 5 http://www.apc.com/p...m?upsfamily=165

You can use the powerheads to heat (a little bit) the tank. eg: A Mag 5 uses 45 watts. So not only is it moving your water, but the heat expelled from the submersible pump goes into the tank as well. Unfortunately, that won't work too well with ecotech powerheads. fwiw: Durring the derecho, I got over an hour out of my ACP 750 UPS with 2 MJ600s. I put on an Aquaclear 50 and that significantly reduced it (like down to 20min). The aquaclear was one power hungry beast compared to the MJ600s

That might be a little too close, but should be ok. I would only move it up if the tank gets too warm. I had a 150w MH over a 30g and I had it about 12inches above the water. I Never had a problem growing anything in it.

For glass tanks, you don't want the foam to be so think that it puts pressure on the bottom pane; especially where the center braces cross. The weight of glass tanks is supported by the edges of the frame. So I wouldn't go any thicker than 1/4 inch foam to be safe For acrylic tanks, you want the weight evenly distributed across the bottom pane. So for those, I would use a 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch medium density foam to smooth out any sharp / uneven spots. fwiw: I used 1/2 styro under my acrylic sump.

It's ok. We all know about your glue sniffing habbit.

I doubt it. I haven't treated the magnet any differently than any of my other powerheads that have been running for years. That said, my evolution 425s that I've had for 3+ years are still working great.

Loctite, IC <something>, Super Glue brand, etc.... what ever kind is available so long as it's cyanoacrylate gel.

Finally got a response from Hydor and they are shipping replacements. FYI: The customer contact form on their website doesn't seem to work. I tried that method twice. The method that does work is to use the email address: hydor.usa@hydor.com

I re-calibrated my pH probe with some solution I picked up at BRK and pH probe now reads 7.95. So I corrected it up to 8.1 with some super strong alkaline 8.3 solution I made up from the granular stuff. I basically just mix it until it won't dissolve anymore and then pour a little bit in at a time and wait for the pH to settle. While at BRK I picked up a Hanna Checker for Calcium as I hate titration tests and I'm always throwing most of the kits out because I don't use it enough. I tested my calcium (before correcting the pH) and I got a reading of 449. I'm a little surprised it being so high, so I will retest tonight. I didn't test alkalinity last night as I had to deal with the family by then. I will pull out my old test kit tonight after I empty the skimmer and change my filter socks. Hopefully it's still good. I am starting to loose a few SPS due to what I imagine is low alkalinity. <sigh> Also, I learned that you cannot test the pH of RODI water without some specialized equipment. The short of it is, there isn't enough stuff in the water to settle the pH and anything added to it will change the pH. Finally, I'm still waiting on a response from Hydor about the rusted out magnet I have on my 1400. I've contacted them 3 times now in the last 7 days and not once did they respond back to me. I could have ordered and received a replacement by now. Also, I noticed recently that my Aquanetics UV kind of glows through the PVC. It's an eery green phospherous glow too. Makes me feel like stuff is dying in there. :-) Does anyone elses UV glow through the PVC? It looks like there's an imperfection in the PVC or it's just really old. If you have ever looked at a cigarette under a black light, the glow pattern on those is kind of what it resembles.

After 2 tries on their website and no response, I found an email address on a thread in RC. So I gave that a try today. Hopefully I'll hear something back. Piper: Did you just use the form on their website? I don't understand why I am not getting any responses.

What Sharkey said. Just make sure there is nothing added to it (100% Nori) and it should be just fine.

I take half a sheet, fold it in half twice and pinch it under a mag float. only small bits float around and the tangs gobble it up. the next day, i release the left over under the mag float and the tangs gobble that up while I am getting a new sheet together.

Still no response from Hydor for me.

I'm not sure if I should feel bad for you, your husband, or your house. LOL. This should help him though:

I am currently hanging my 72" Aquactinics Constellation with 2 toggle bolts from 1/2" dry-wall. I believe the light weighs about 50lbs. Been there for over a year and no problems.

I checked my other 1400 powerhead and it's magnet is in perfect condition. Since I purchased them at the same time it's probably a defect from the manufacturer. I have never soaked them in vinegar. I clean them in warm tap water with a nylon brush and use an old butter knife to pick off the crustaceans and whatever else decided to attach to it.

La tua richiesta è stata inoltrata correttamente. Ti risponderemo al più presto. Cordiali saluti. translate.google.com: Your request has been submitted successfully. We will respond as soon as possible. Sincerely.

This is the first time I've seen this happen and I still have my original powerheads from when I started this hobby and they still work great. Not all of them have the same impellers, but for different reasons than magnet failure. I understand if a shaft breaks or impellers snap off (those parts are under the most stress) and I have seen that happen before. This stinks of manufacturing defect. QA needs a bump in the factory, imo. Here are some picks I took of the impeller: