craby

emissary, I kept a 2.5 gal nano for about a year w/ (2) 9w PC bulbs & a ViaAqua 70gph PH. I also had a 5 gal nano w/ (4) 9w PC & PH. That's all for equipment. I do believe you will find that the smaller tanks require less equipment & that the 13w PC bulb will not add too much heat to the water. Also, when you put a bunch of equipment in a nano, the electrical cords coming from the canopy can look messy in relation to the size of the tank.

Alright fellow reefers, 2 hours till my tank tour. Come on by between 1-5 pm. Here are some links to mapquest: Coming from 270 Frederick area: 270/Frederick area Coming from 395 Alexandria/Arlington: 395 Alexandria/Arlington Coming from Rt 50 Annapolis area: Rt 50 Annapolis area Coming from Rt 66 Manassas area: Rt 66 Manassas area Feel free to call me at 703-376-4496.

Where are you?

Parking along the (4) blocks surrounding my building is acceptable & usually readily available on the weekend. No problem worrying about paid parking & tickets as long as you don't illegaly park.

Hello all, My tank tour is coming up this Sunday, 8/14/05 from 1 - 5 pm. My address is: 4850 Connecticut Avenue, NW, Apt # 1016 Washington, DC 20008 Mapquest has not let me down yet. If you need specific directions, just PM me & I can reply w/ directions. Please advise if you plan on coming over. Thanks, Luke C.

I would frag the salvagable parts of the SPS that RTN has not reached yet ASAP. Through away the white skeleton. Basicaly it's a chain reaction some times w/ RTN where it jumps from coral to coral & removing the dead coral can help stop this chain reaction.

Gary, I had the same issue when I had the RBTA's in my tank. The sps are doing better now that I removed the RBTA's. I don't know if they could be part of the problem, but I think they are more suited to a softie tank. I read somewhere that they release toxins in the tank that fowl the water. I am not aware of a test you can do to measure this toxicity, but if you plan to have luck w/ sps, you may want to look into removing some, if not all of the RBTA's. Also, zoos are fairly capable of releasing a similar, although less potent toxin in the water if stressed. Do you have alot of zoos?

How tall is the tank?

I have a eunice worm living in my sand bed. I have seen it at night but can't get a pic because in retracts to it's hidding spot lightning fast. I found a brief discription on the "Reefkeeping Magazine" at: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-04/rs/index.htm The description is as follows: "Eunice individuals tend to live in mucus-lined borrows in rock or sediments and may have several entrances to their tubes. It lives in a burrow in the sediment, or more rarely, in a burrow in the rocks. When feeding, one of these worms will slowly extend from its burrow. They typically have four to six eyes and are quite capable of detecting motion outside the aquarium, and across the room. It will slowly search the surrounding area for food and if bothered by a fish, or its own shadow, will retract into its burrow with a velocity that has to be seen to be believed. Contraction back into a burrow has been clocked in excess of 20 feet per second, and if only a couple of feet of the worm are visible while it is foraging, that worm can disappear, quite literally, in the blink of an eye." Here's what they look like: I believe it is eating my fire cracker zoos & maxima clam as I find the tips of the zoos gone & the clam is shriveling up . I also find the same mucus membrane on the zoos & clam as the worm leaves around it's body when it is out scavenging. It's at least 1' long & the diameter of a pencil. Any idea how to get rid of it short of disassembing my tank rockwork?

I'll take the 180 gal tank off your hands if your giving it away .

Ditto on what Howard said. One thing that would help is to use a 100 gal rubbermaid as a temp sump plumbed into the new tank. This way you can do a big water change on your old tank the weekend before you move, add new water & old water to the temp sump & new tank & let it settle over the week. This will allow for extra water available at the new place. I will make myself available to help on moving day, depending on the date. When are you scheduling the move?

My $.02. MH gives a nice shimmering light over the tank, kinda what you see when you look in a pool as the light ripples over the bottom. Some say this looks more natural. It's all a personal preference. I have had PC, VHO, & MH and I prefer MH.

PM sent on LR.

Yes it's still available. If you can come pick it up tonight, please PM me. IF it's not gone soon it's going in the trash. It is in N.W. DC.

I have a 20 gal long sump w/ baffles & hole drilled for 1" bulkhead. FREE! Come pick it up today & it's yours.

One simple way to catch it is to get a square tubber ware container, put smoe food in it & lay it on it's side in a corner of the tank near it's lair. Put a mag cleaner on the back of the container & wait. When the mantis goes into the container, move the mag cleaner to push the container to the corner.

PM sent on (1) Turboflotor w/ pump.

PM sent on equipment.

Well, since it's in the tank & all you're really concerned about is it draining to the bottom of the elbow when power goes off,you just need to make sure it doesn't leak (very much that is). In your case, you should be able to cut off about half the MPT side of the Ell. Just as long as it screws in a few good turns & teflon goes between the treads, you should be in good shape. If you have a dremel, use it to clean up the threads on the cut. If not, spurs may snag the teflon & break your seal.

You are not supposed to get these fittings to cover full thread. These fittings are tapered & you are likely to break them if you screw them all the way until no treads are showing. On another note, you can use teflon to help seal/lube it.

D33rex, Phosban is the name of the reactor. You use phosphate removing media in it. It works well, & you do not need CO2 for it. All you need is a small PH to send water through it. My reactor is sold.

Mike, I have a Phosban phosphate reactor for sale - $35. PM me if interested. Thanks.

I got a rock from someone who had red flat worms. I've had out of water for about (2) months now. Any idea how to clean the LR so that they don't get in my tank? I don't know if any eggs can survive out of water. Maybe I can bleach/boil the LR.

Krish, I'll take (1) more. See you Saturday. Thanks, Luke C.

As LR ages it gets clogged & looses it's ability to effectively biologically process waste. One answer is to cook your LR. To cook your LR you shake out the waste in a seperate container & replace SW every time you do a water change over a (4) month period. Essentially this depletes the bacteria's abundant food source & forcing it to delve deeper into the LR to find food. This process opens up the pours in the LR and cleans it. This is kinda hard to do when your LR has corals attached. Another option is to go BB, turkey baste, let settle & siphon detritous off the bottom glass when you do a water change.