Jump to content

ridetheducati

BB Participant
  • Posts

    1,732
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ridetheducati

  1. I would do the following: 1. Review and test Apex programming to identify cause; 2. Conduct two 60 gallon water changes; while performing each water change, remove all decaying matter and dunk live rock in saltwater to dislodge detritus; 3. Try not to overly disturb the sand bed; and 4. Do not stress, let the system reach its equilibrium. Purchase a Seachem Ammonia badge to monitor possible nitrogen cycle. Edit: To clarify, day one and day two perform the 60 gallon water change.
  2. Please provide sub-species and degree of difficulty.
  3. Quarantining fish is a critical step that most hobbyist do not follow. As mentioned above, a certain level of fortitude is required and I understand why following a strict QT process is the exception and not the rule. I follow a 8 - 10 week process and it takes time to fully stock an empty tank. I currently have five fish with 25 more to go. I have one QT for inverts and three QT available for fish and always have one 10g QT for fish running. It helps for those impulse buys. FWIW, I quarantine fish purchased from vendors that offer quarantined livestock. Paranoid, absolutely, I have zero patience for disease. Who is responsible for replacing livestock that were infected by a fish that came from a vendor that quarantines livestock? Also, consider the different vectors that disease can enter a system, such as inverts and sharing of sand. About 10 years ago, I had a mature 10g anemone and clownfish nano. Ordered a few snails and macro algae to add diversity; I did not quarantine the macro algae or snails. You guessed it, had ich within a week of adding the algae and snails.
  4. I must be out of touch. If someone does not have room for a QT, they should downsize their main display. See that five gallon bucket sitting in the corner, that could be a QT. I understand the question as the system is contaminated, what do you do, remove the fish or deal with it. Many hobbyist deal with it because of the level of effort required to right the ship. Some people drive without wearing their seat belts; I bet that train of thought would change after a serious accident. My point is apply your own risk management strategy based on your needs. Loosing $50 worth of fish is easier to accept than loosing $10,000 worth of livestock. Chances are most hobbyist would not be so cavalier when a serious financial or emotional investment at stake. I see it all the time in the LFS or online, a $50 fish is sick and dies, the hobbyist says "oh well, just buy another one".
  5. Scenario: Main display is stocked with mature fish valued at $20,000. A new addition is scheduled to arrive from Live Aquaria, Blue Zoo, or insert your favorite vendor. Do you quarantine the new additions or add directly to the main display?
  6. Do you quarantine all new additions? Remove all fish from main display and begin a process to treat for ailments such as bacteria or fungal infection, flukes, and ich.
  7. Do you have reason to believe the fish has ich? Do you follow a quarantine process?
  8. i am interested in the chiller.
  9. System has been running for three months without fish and a few frags. Enough SPS to keep my CaRX running at a low level. This weekend, I will be moving over five Cirrhilabrus and officially beginning the SPS collection process in earnest. At the moment, I have not decided what other fish will be part of the community.
  10. If the reactor currently maintains the system at 8.4 dkh, use sodium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate to raise display alk to desired levels. The reactor will maintain the new level.
  11. I am not picky about what water I use. It could be existing tank water, RO/DI or tap water. I mix the amount of potassium chloride I need with 3 or 4 cups of water, stir and pour in sump. Edit. I normally dose enough to move the potassium value 10 ppm or 20 ppm at a time.
  12. To raise 100 gallons by 100 ppm, 72 grams of potassium chloride is needed. 5 grams equals 1 teaspoon.
  13. Potassion is good and effective. I also have "Now Foods Potassium Chloride" from i herb dot com. 220 grams for $5.
  14. Maintain K at 400 - 410 ppm according to Salifert test kit.
  15. Increase feeding of broccoli florets and seaweed.
  16. Why start carbon dosing if you dont need it?
  17. All single species female wrasse will turn into male.
  18. Appreciate the kind words. I often get asked why I rebooted the system. When you stand on the train tracks and you see a light fast approaching, now is the time to move, not later. I knew what the next 6 - 12 months had in-stored for me if I did not implement a fix quickly. I was no longer in control and through an aggressive move; I needed to regain control.
  19. Progressing through the algae phases. Diatom Phase Green phase
×
×
  • Create New...