ridetheducati

Based on the shape of the corals, majority look wild. Six MP40 and two 6105s.

I was browsing the Inter webs today and found... Impressive. 370 gallon. 6x400w and 24xT5

You are better off exchanging a cup of sand.

Two MP40s will be sufficient for a tank 72"x24". MP60 would work as well, but you may have to dial them down to manage sand dunes.

+1 It is refreshing to see a manufacture think outside the box and bring some innovation to the table. I totally agree with your assessment. An effective rock layout will determine whether the gyre develops properly and entice detritus to move. Ideal for low profile layouts such as frag tanks; the "gyre" supplemented with conventional power heads would work in any system.

You may need four more power heads for the 180. Do you expect the gyre to help improve water quality?

I have several ballasts on hand. PFO, Blueline, and Luxcore. I could swap out the PFO for Luxcore, but I dont feel like splicing and soldering the plug.

Yes.

3 - Lumenarc III reflectors 3 - 400w Radium 2 - Luxcore 250/400w ballast (Electronic) 1 - PFO 400w ballast (Magnetic). The PFO and Luxcore ballasts are performing nearly identical.

Have you ever noticed the pH changing on your tank when you have family events or multiple people standing around the tank and conversing? You will be surprised. Opening the window allows fresh air exchange to occur and the tank benefits, pH rises.

I would power wash using water no soap, acid bath, and then soak in a solution of baking soda. Bleach not needed. Lanthanum Chloride aka SeaKlear Phosphate Remover is readily available at local swimming pool stores and Amazon ($25). It is excellent for cleaning phosphate laden live rock AND reefs. I strongly recommend researching Lanthanum Chloride prior to using it. Why you may ask. Because it is very potent and does what it supposed to do extremely rapidly. Overdose this stuff and puff, massive RTN event or stressed fish. Give me a call I can give you details.

If I had a cyano problem... 1. Manual removal - cyano stores nutrients for later use, physical removal will export a lot of nutrients. 2. Remove as much nutrient and stored nutrients as possible - lower phosphates and nitrates using GFO and organic carbon dosing respectively 3. Siphon/clean sandbed - siphon a section of the sandbed each week with a gravel cleaner 4. Skim, Skim, Skim - Unless you have neck cleaner, clean the skimmer twice a week 5. Increase pH (if possible) - A higher pH (8.4) will help eradicate nuisance algae. Carbon dioxide can build in the home and suppress the tank pH. 6. Maintain lower nutrients and good husbandry - keep stable water parameters and the corals will thank you. Know your path and follow it.

As mentioned above, the live rock and sand could be leaching PO4. When you start over, use Lanthanum Chloride to clean the rocks and start with a new sandbed.

cyano outcompetes green algae for P at low N:P ratios

My transition back to MH is complete. I mounted the third light last week and temps are manageable with a 10" fan. Some corals have changed and some have stayed the same. More importantly, the corals I wanted to change have changed for the better. Coralline is going through changes as well. The system did go through a diatom and dino bloom; I was not expecting dinos. Luckily it was a small bout; a few mls of H2O2 cleared it up.

cyano outcompetes green algae for P at low N:P ratios, green algae outcompetes cyano for P at high N:P ratios, and diatoms outcompete green algae for P at high Si:P ratios. Do you have green hair algae? What are the nitrate and phosphate levels?

The items listed in the poll are tools to fix or manage a specific problem. For overall general health, basic blocking and tackling: 1. Quality live rock (the cornerstone) 2. Aggressive export mechanism(s) such as skimmer, ATS, or refugium 3. Strong lighting for photosynthetic animals 4. Periodic water changes to replenish minor elements 5. Maintain a reasonable fish and coral bio-load

Go electronic, but get the selectable (250w/400w) for options. If you are 100% sure 250w is the ballast for you, get the 250w ballast.

What pump did you have driving the CL? Also, did you have a 90 or 45 degree elbow on the bulkhead? I am trying to determine what caused the stress at the bulkhead. Acrylic is strong.

If you have LEDs, I am interested to hear how the Del Fuego fairs.

What fish or coral do you consider Holy Grail? I have two that happen to be Angelfish. 1. Conspicuous Angelfish 2. Peppermint Angelfish

I have not pick them up yet, but here is the list: Fox Flame Ventilation Loripes Candle or Yellow Torch Purple Monster (for nostalgia) Vivid Rainbow

Same as mine. 72x36Wx27H

Summer time: 8 hoursWinter time: 9 hours

I will sell a few frags in 12 months.