ridetheducati

Are any of these available? Naoko C. Naoko Lubbock C. lubbocki Solon C. solorensis Bluehead C. cyanopleura Exquisite C. exquisitus Hooded Fairy C. bathyphilus Carpenter C. carpenteri Lineatus Fairy C. lineatus Flame Fairy C. jordani McCosker Flasher P. mccoskeri Linespot Flasher P. lineopunctatus Blue Flasher P. cyaneus

Implement an effective quarantine process so you do not have to worry about ich.

African

Majority of the wrasse will be quarantined in several tanks and all introduced into the main display at the same time. Common tactic I use for all temperamental fish such as Angels, Tangs, and Wrasse. For single additions, I have an isolation box in the main display to help with acclimation. The Wrasse game can be tricky but with a good game plan and patience, it works. I also have a cheat sheet that helps me remember what species to avoid, Pseudocheilinus, and potential for conflict/aggression. For example, the C. scottorum is not on my list due to its aggression.

Fish list Naoko C. Naoko - Lubbock C. lubbocki - purchased Solon C. solorensis - purchased Bluehead C. cyanopleura - Exquisite C. exquisitus - Hooded Fairy C. bathyphilus - Carpenter C. carpenteri - Lineatus Fairy C. lineatus - Flame Fairy C. jordani - McCosker Flasher P. mccoskeri - purchased Linespot Flasher P. lineopunctatus Blue Flasser P. cyaneus Leopard M. bipartitus -

Update: Week 3 System progressing as expected. The cyano phase is complete and a few small turfs of green hair algae that 40 hermits will handle. Picking up a few Cirrhilabrus for the quarantine tank and CUC for main display.

When I was in Denver on business, I heard this is common in the weed keeping community as well.

Update: Day 15 Cycle complete. Cyano and hair algae beginning to grow. Going to add a small CUC and a few pounds of seed rock today.

Without getting nerdy about the topic, here is a good take away. Reflectors like LB and Lumenmax are spot lights and need to be mounted higher to avoid hot spotting. A reflector like Lumenarc3 can be mounted lower as its strength is spread. Each reflector has its strengths and weaknesses. You need to determine the maximum height you can mount a reflector. A LB mounted 18" is acceptable as well, granted you have the room. A PAR meter will tell you how evenly the spread is at a given height.

The LB mini performs better the more it is raised. In your situation, we are only trying to light a 24" x 24" area. How high can you mount the reflectors? Measurements taken from bottom of fixture.

Use three 250w bulbs mounted 10-12" above water line.

Does the 180g have center braces?

Do you plan to run a chiller? If not, use 250w MH. Strongly recommend using a switchable ballast 250w and 400w for flexibility. Run 250w for a few months to gauge potential heat and humidity issues and switch to 400w if you want more growing power.

Lighting schedule does not impact the speed of the cycle. Water temperature and movement does impact the speed. I run my lights so I can see how the cycle is progressing as opposed to testing. When I begin to see diatoms, I know to begin testing nitrates. Also, the ammonia alert is a constant indicator of the ammonia state. Others do not like to run lights because they try to minimize the ugly stage, I welcome it because I have a highly trained and motivated nitrate and phosphate removal squad. My squad plays with all equipment inflated. The addition of corals and fish is at least 3 weeks out. All of my QTs are online and ready for business.

Lights on eight hours per day.

Update: Day 11 Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: not tested Nitrates: 2 ppm Diatoms are beginning to cover the sand, light Tan dusting on glass, and a few blotches of green patches. The algae cycle is beginning. Getting a small CUC this weekend.

AEFW is to Reef Ebola One can survive a bout with AEFW but it will test your fortitude. Also, dips are not very effective against AEFW eggs. Fresh cut and fully inspect SPS with magnifying glass then dip.

A couple days ago I lost my Powder Blue and McCosker, not sure why. They were eating and swimming normally. Corals are fine, doing weekly water changes to maintain levels. Most likely will run 10k during the first few months as the system matures. Running Iwasaki too soon could get the system out of whack during the algae cycle. I need to find a few pounds of good raw live rock with sponges and tunicates for seeding. Ammonia (.05 ppm) is beginning to show on the main display. Looking forward to the ugly phase to begin.

The top left rock needed some assistance just as you pointed out. I made a small change after I took the photos. I added a small rock to give the rock a peak. Now that rock blends in. The top left platform has a 10" diameter and I expect it to hold 3-4 corals. The Tonga branch did not work as intended but I still like it. My original idea did not look natural.

Appreciate the comments. I will continue playing the wrasse game; at this point I have 3 of 11 wrasse on my fish list. Very disappointed with Bartletts, they were very aggressive and killed each other. All the females decided to change sex, it was a disaster. The activity reminded me of a large school of Chromis I kept several years ago. Other than the wrasse, I need to seriously think about completing the fish stocking list. Lubbock C. lubbocki - purchased Solon C. solorensis - purchased Bluehead C. cyanopleura - Exquisite C. exquisitus - Hooded Fairy C. bathyphilus - Carpenter C. carpenteri - Lineatus Fairy C. lineatus - Flame Fairy C. jordani - McCosker Flasher P. mccoskeri - purchased Linespot Flasher P. lineopunctatus Blue Flasser P. cyaneus

Rock that was set aside has encrusting corals on it.

@DuffyGeos I will post it when the feature is complete. After I started the cooking process I realized I forgot to hold onto 10 pounds of good live rock. Need to find 5-10 pounds of coralline encrusted life rock, minus the mantis shrimp.