ridetheducati

Some corals are more sensitive than others. Take note of which corals are affected and use that as an early warning signal. Are you carbon dosing?

What Alkalinity do you target? Are the tips malformed as well? Has the lighting changed at all? Generally speaking, hobbyist maintaining an ULNS with alkalinity of 9dkh or greater report SPS tips burning.

Were they previously treated in quarantine? From the omniverse.

Agreed, coupled with slowing the flow rate. Slow flow, less air.

Continue to perform your tests, the formula is not to replace your normal procedures, just another point of reference. Also, it has nothing to do with mineral consumption rates. If you maintain your alk at 10 dkh and your salt mixes to 10 dkh, the formula may not be useful. However, if you maintain your tank at 8 dkh and your salt mixes to 10 dkh, then the formula will be useful. Especially if a large emergency water change is needed.

Be aware, the stand may appear level now, but with adequate weight applied it may not be level. Can you further level the stand when the tank is half full? Forgive me for asking the next question, because I know the answer, but you are using at least a four foot level?

Thanks Chad. Example for a 25% water change: (75 * x) + (25 * y) /100 = z

The question was rhetorical. I posted the thread to help hobbyist understand the affects. Thanks.

It is loud because its drawing air. What happens when the nozzle is submerged?

+1. I forgot to address the other question. I recommend not removing the bottom trim.

The following formula can assist you in determining how water changes can affect overall alkalinity. Example for 10% water change: (90 * x) + (10 * y) /100 = z X = alkalinity of display tank (dkh) Y = alkalinity of new salt water (dkh) Z = new alkalinity of display tank (dkh) 10% water change on a tank of 8 dkh with salt of 12dkh (90 * 8) + (10 * 12) /100 = 840 (720) + (120) /100 = 8.4 The water change caused the alk to rise from 8 dkh to 8.4 dkh.

DO NOT use any foam under the tank. Ensure the stand is level (1/16" tolerance). 1/4" pink foam is sometimes used to compensate for irregularities in the top wood panel, not for leveling.

Generally, phosphate levels will dictate how often algae collects on the panels. Low PO4 every few days, high PO4 algae will collect daily.

I have taken my tank there for years. I remember when it was $7 for 5 lbs, now its $15 or $17.

The Angels are doing very well. The Blueface has grown quite a bit and occasionally challenges the Imp. I have one Mille that the Blueface taps, but nothing major. I removed the female Blue Throat because she constantly paced the front glass, really annoying. QTs are empty, dry and put away until I find something that excites me. I thought about going down the multiple Wrasse path, but I am not ready to play that game. Some things to consider, male color loss, introducing at the same time, and acclimation boxes. The short list: Cirrhilabrus solorensis, Cirrhilabrus jordani, Paracheilinus mccoskeri, and Pseudocheilinus ocellatus. I do plan to add one Serranus tortugarum at some point.

I tossed buckets of the stuff in the back yard. I can still remember the slime and stench. From the omniverse.

About ten years ago, I maintained a skimmerless tank and used Xenia as a nutrient export mechanism. Worked flawlessly.

The brand does not matter, just get the correct size. My comment is brand neutral because everyone has their favorite(s) and will support that choice, which will not help your cause. Continue to do your research and avoid being assaulted with brand names. Focus on features that are important to you, such as internal, external, skimmer height, type of impeller, variable pump, sound, and maintenance.

The skimmer is four feet tall. The tank behind the skimmer is a 55g.

When clean, the Beckett is second to none. It was powered by a Mak4 or Iwaki 55RLT. I sold it to a hobbyist years ago, I wonder what it is doing now.

Found this picture in my archives. Powering the monster down.

Initially I was going to do a full review including testing, but several hobbyist on RC are doing a great job and I may not have much to offer.

My Tunzes are 10 years old. If I can get two years out this pump, I will be happy.

Roozen had two Goldflake Angels, a local hobbyist purchased both. Unfortunately, the hobbyist killed the first one and is hoping the the second makes it through QT. In case your wondering, he used Cupramine without testing. If only he had listened to my warnings. "For the Goldflake, do not follow the instructions on the bottle, increase the Cupramine levels over a 5 - 7 day period and test along the way."

Diatoms -> green algae -> cyano (depends on husbandry)-> coralline.