shawns

you can use a 5g bucket for your top off too. it should fit.

looks like a 55g wont fit in there. i would get either a 29g like i have or a 30 long tank.

i had to use a 29g tank under my stand. i have a 90g tank too, but the stand is like 44'' on the inside. it HOLDS a 48'' tank. :(

attempted to send pm, but your box was full. interested in the tlf reactor and the refractometer.

you plan to do a nitrate test to your top off??? a tds meter wont tell you what your nitrates are, only what the level of tds is. most of the tds is PO4, but im sure that some hidden nirates could be in there.

remember how you were asking about a tds meter? your add/top off water could be trash. how much dt's are you adding? you could add a fuge to help export nutrients. you've gone 3days w out feeding ?!?!? please feed your fish. if you think that you're overfeeding, just feed less not less often.

i would be more concerned w/ the air in the seem. that cant hold a seal too well. do you see what i mean??? the steaky air between the panes of glass. that is a void where i woould imagine silicone SHOULD be. good luck w/ a solution!

or.....you could swing by and borrow mine.

i treat my frags like any other lps. medium flow and medium light. i dont spot feed mine, but i do put cyclopeeze in my tank weekly.

what they have that you can use is the silicon that DOESN'T have any antibacterial additive.

when is the tank tour going to be???

okay, do what you want. we're just trying to save you the headache. good luck!

no need for the quiet police when dave is on the mic!

i know you payed a lot for the frag, but what expense is worth you introducing AEFW to YOUR system?!?!? i agree w/ ric, unless you name is sanjay, dont play games and trash the frag. just dont get anything else from the tank where you know these things came. good luck and choose wisely!

lighting-- t5's will suffice a closed loop would be nice and could save on electricity. you're right about the sand. i would either go w/ new substrate or just rinse it HEAVILY! if you dont already have 1, you may want to consider a good, quality skimmer. i heard that GSA makes pretty good stuff. what kind of reef do you intend to do? sps, lps, mixed???? wildlife--anykind of shrimp, snails and crabs. all fish except the fish that are aggressive--i thought that you would know. schools of chromis and anthias are nice. clownfish, additional tangs, cardinals and wrasses are all good. some keep DSB and others have refugiums. some ppl even have both or niether. it's all up to you how you work that.

one can also discourage sniping or other bidders by bidding a lot up front and blow every1 else out of the water! say that ppl have bidding $1 at a time and all of a sudden you come up and bid $30 more. every1 gets discouraged. they dont want to mess w/ some1 that is going to go over the top like that! it is used all the time in conventional brick and mortor auctions. it will keep ppl away! just my $.02.

if the auction ends at 9pm, then the highest bid before 901 wins.

it's all about how much blue your pallate can handle. some guys like radiums, others like 10k. some like 10k w/ A LOT of actinic. just look at the TOTM's they each have wonderful tanks. each has great lighting, but each do it in the way that it would look good to them. if i was doing the gb, i would buy 1 midday, 2 act+, 2 aqua, and 2 pure act. play w/ the configuration and see what YOU like. thats what matters anyway. no one sees your tank more then you...other then your fish. if it were me, i wouldnt rule out using 1 vho actinic, but thats me and what I like. like i said, "HAVE FUN!!"

since you're doing a retro and mh are not an option--although you will want to do sps down the road. we all make plans and i can guarantee that NO ONE has stuck to them--this is my sugestion: 2-3 t-5s controled on 1 ice cap 660 or equivelent and 1 vho super actinic powered by a sufficient ballast. the reason i say 2-3 is you may fit 2 or you may fit 3. it just depends on how things line up. you may want to consider having room for fans inside of your hood. i would go w/ the vho actinic simply because you will never get the same color from a t-5 actinic. you can try pc, but i would just do all 48'' bulbs across the tank. use 2 ballasts to control the vho and the 2-3 t-5s independently. 1 ballst for the vho and 1 for the t-5s. got it?? you also dont want to have the lights on overnight. probably 10-12 hrs photoperiod for the tank. that is all that you'll want. that way it will simulate "life" better. have fun!!!

i think a mod has to do it.

i can help after 1830 on the myersville side. i have to return from work and i commute from 21769 to 20816.

TTT just a reminder for the weekend!

that first acro is pretty sweet! i saw it on friday. what camera did you decide to get??

yep. just check salinity. it may have changed due to evaporation. i let my new water sit and stabilize for at least a couple of days b4 i use it.

wow!! that's quite a graphic!!