shawns

unless sand is going in the fuge area, i wouldnt stress it.

+1 listen to chewy!

good collection of zoas. lmk if you ever want to do a frag pack.

radium w/ NEW ice cap ballast.

my wife took some pictures today. her skills are much better then mine, so i hope everyone likes the shots!

i had sometime today to set up somethings and to take some new pictures. they arent perfect, but i think i will continue to toy w/ the white balance to get them closer to actual color. i decided to light the tank w/ 1 mini lumenarc reflector, ic 400w ballast and radium bulb. it looks sick! the skimme is a euro-reef rc180.

maybe do $10/frag but have plateau pricing. for example, 9 for $100, 18 for $200, 26 for $300 and so on. no tweeners though! if you dont make it to the next mark, they remain $10/ frag. so 12 frags would be $130.

me too. i use it about once a month for ro/di water.

when you place your order, pick up a couple extra of each. you'll think that you have a good combo on paper, but once you fire you'll want to tweek the color a little. also consider ordering a bulb or 2 of the colors that you didnt mention, i.e. figi purple and uvl actinic. if you dont use the bulbs immediately, you may need them down the road for something else. good luck!

i heard that you might have purchased some new hardware for your tank. if that is the case, id like to see some updated pics.

since the cube rimless tanks have become popular, i have been fasinated and inspired by their design. i found a deal that i couldnt refuse and i took advatage of that deal yesterday. saturday i drove to charlotte to buy a tank and stand that was already used. i guess that makes it a retread or something like that. its a custom 30x30x25 glasscages tank. it has low iron glass on three sides and a custom stand that could hold the red october! i dont have any current pics of it in my house, but i have a thread that you all can check out to see what it was like in its previous life. http://rasoc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6109 i wouldnt have been able to make the move without russell wiley. thank you very much for allowing me to use your vehicle and being there to give me a hand! here are some of the ideas that im kicking around. lighting: im torn on what id like to use for lighting. the battle is between a single lumenarc mini w/ 400w mh, or a 24'' ati 6 bulb powermodule. filtration: i need to get a skimmer for this tank. again, i have yet to make a decision. i like the new octopus skimmers, but i like the consistancy and multiple pump compatability that the downdraft skimmers offer. i plan to use florida aquacultured live rock and a ssb. movement: with the purchase of the tank, i picked up 2 tunze 6045's. i think that will do the trick. i will use a mag 3 as a return pump. for those who done know me, im not one to have a speices or themed tank. i intend to keep whatever i happen to like. it wont be overstocked with fish or coral. again, i plan to keep everthing as simple and basic in design and asthetically as i can. i will update the thread as decisions are made and additions take place. i look forward to feed back and advise from you all!

no worries, dude. i called euroreef and got the answer i needed. for anybody else that needs to know, it's 5.5''. thanks

im considering replacing my ocean runner for an eheim 1262. for ANY of you who may use this pump on their skimmer, could i ask a favor? what is the distance, from center to center, of the in coming port to the out going opening? the measurement must include the volute. thanks for the help!

what is the concenus on lighting that foot print w/ the right reflector and 1 400w mh bulb? i know that best practice will suggest to do 2 bulbs, but what if i could push the limits of what is common knowledge? i could do some clever aquascaping and use the 1 bulb to my advantage. if it can be done, it would be so much easier to deal w/ 1 bulb to replace, along w/ only 1 timer. keep in mind that sanjay uses 3 lights for over 7' linear of tank. please keep an open mind!

aquaconnect, radium or phnx are probably your best options. the ac is a probably the best in par followed by the phnx then radium. good luck

this coral is bullet proof! i vouch for full recovery in no time! thans again almon.

i have never seen a thread debating the use of t5's and mh. i dont know what kind of figuring you're doing, but if you'd like to go the t5 route you can fit 10-11 bubls in a 2' space. aquactinics makes a 2'' reflector! not only will you have more light from the added bulbs but the thinner reflectors will get the light to the bottom of your 2' tank! t-5s are about $22/bulb. 220 for 10. $160 for mh, but the t5s last 18months vs. 12 of the halides. t5 wattage would be 800 for 10 bulbs--the same as the dual 400w mh. are you set on EITHER t-5s OR metal halides?? why dont you use both? have you ever considered 250w mh, and maybe 6 t-5s? i bet you could do it and that would SLAM your tank w/ light!

i love you bob, but the date is still wrong. isnt it next sunday, not august???? i just dont want ppl to get confused. i know that i always do. i intend to attend.

i honestly cant say what im going to be doing on 27 aug 2009!! that is just too far in advance to make plans.

something else to consider... of all the clownfish, maroon clowns are the hardest on their hosts. source of info: traveller7 @ WAMAS meeting. the only reason i heard was a result of the, "shhhh" police.

i agree w/ jb. i would just try different mh bulbs to find something that you may like more. to be honest, if you like what you see and everybody is happy, then why changes things??? we can tinker all we want, but i think how the tank is doing is to most important. i wouldnt change just to change, but to try to make things better for every1 involved. thats just my 2/5 of a nickel. if you do t5's, consider the aquactinic reflectors. they are only 2'' wide and as a result have better depth penetration.

did you end up making a repair??

check on nanoreef too. they have a lot on info on there about mods.

yes, if that tank leaks and you need to get it out of the stand, the only way for you to get it out is the way that you get it in there.

thats fine, but in the event that you would need to service that tank, how would it be removed?