shawns

the next meeting is in 2 weeks and it's at bcc high school.

just so i understand better, what is the problem w/ the car? is it overheating or is the a/c not cool? it is 2 different conditions. unfortunately i cant help w/ the commute problem, but i maybe able to help you w/ your car problem! feel free to pm me if you're interested.

im certainly intrigued! cant wait to see everything together!

welcome!! when you get a chance you should post some pics of your settup. i love to see quality nanos!! shawn

chris, do you have any pics of what will be available?

i find amusement in the discepency.

although dan may not be able to post anything about competitors products--totally respect and understand why--other members that have purchased things from greyseas can comment/compare and contrast his product w/ other products in the vendor experience forum. what do you all think?

assuming that all of your parameters are okay, has he been eating?

i wanted to have an idea of what it could handle. i didnt want to over shoot! :( im also just brain storming ways to limit my powerhead # to as few as possible. by using a bigger return pump, i can use bigger return lines. maybe i can do something like a mag9.5 and put it on a sqwd. i can make some diy educators to increase the out going flow from the returns. then again, i could slow down the return rate w/ a smaller pump--like a mag 2 or 3--and hook it up to a sea swirl. then i could just make a closed loop for the mag and the sqwd.

so you dont use any backround? just let the coraline do its thing and it will eventually cover the rear.

lay the tank on the front side and paint the rear?

can the sticky stuff be reapplied after removal?

just like the title says, what kind of flow can i expect to get from my megaflow? has any1 used both holes in there overflow to increase flow to their sump/fuge? or done this: http://www.dursostandpipes.com/ click under popular mods, then meags-flow modification. you guys are awesome!!

what do we do out there for our backrounds? id like to go permanet black. should i do it w/ rustoleum, or should i get a paper backing? id rather paint. i think it will be easier in the long run. if painting in general is prefered, what paint should i use and what sheen should it be?

why not?

love to see pics of all the carpenters projects. they can be pre-completion, or completed works.

thinking about 5 bulbs over 48x18. so my best bet is to use 2 430s?

can i run 4-5 bulbs on just the 660? dave, by the way the frags look great in the tank!!

i need to understand a couple of things a little better. most of these things concern the topic. what is the difference between a 430 and a 660 ballast??? im sure that the 660 is a higher out put or something along those lines. is the 660 really "worth" the additional $$? i guess it burns the bulbs more intensely? are vho end caps and t endcaps interchangeable? i know that the t5 bulbs are a fraction of the size, but havent seen he endcaps enough to conceptualize them. keep in mind that i do have an understanding of electricity--ohms law and what not--so dont be tentative to explain lighting in a complicated fassion.(if nec) thanks again for the help!

although your nitrates are a little high, i think the root of your problem--sps looking sickly--is switching salts quickly. you have to consider the fact that the water chemistry is RAPIDLY changed when you switch salts to fast. johnny@brk once told me that he made a 100% change in salt. he lost nearly everything in his tank and his ammonia went through the roof! he told me that the tank water had bound metals and by changing salts he had unbound these metals that was in his tank water. the inhabitants expierenced too much stress and it was like armageddon in his tank! im not tell you that what happened to him is going to happen to you, but you do need to consider what happens to the water chemistry when a sudden change, like changing salt 100%, occurs. w/ that all said you need to make a call. 1. let things settle like others said. that way there is SOME stability in the tank water. 2. do a massive water change w/ the old salt to try to flush the new salt along w/ whatever other crap may be in the tank water. i like the first idea myself. good luck and keep us posted! johnny, feel free to correct my story since i used it as a point of reference.

saleem? if you're not in a pinch for a skimmer, why dont you wait until greyseas aquatics has something comprable? i'd rather deal w/ some1 that is local and demands a high level of quality in their product, even if a wait is involved. just my 2 cents. good luck w/ your search.

dan, sent ya pm!

im sure that w/ as members that we have, SOME1 should have connections to a dunk tank. the fairest way to go is w/ % of FAT lost. if you go by total weight lost, people will start to loose muscle. once muscle is lost, it will be more difficult for the body to loose the unhealthy weight. i do like the idea of going by % of fat lost. so if i understand it right, if fat body A has 15% body fat and drops it to 7.5%, they have a 50% body fat lost. if fat body B has 33% body fat, and drops to 11% body fat, they have lost 66% body fat. therefore, fat body B wins? that being said, we cant pinch, tape or use an electronic device. we have to dunk our bodies to see who really is the fattest, and who would be the REAL WINNER of this impromtu compitition. im certainly intrigued and when there is a more acurate way considered to measure body fat, i'll be in!

where did you pick those up? clubzoa??

ANYTHING!!! they want anything that is unique or cool. i think that they would rather have too many nominees then not enough. at least if they had too many, they would have a tank to choose. if there arent any...then how would there be a totm??