Wrench

Good to see the tank is doing better. Stinks to see the LED's wouldn't work out although I'd place the blame on fixture selection as opposed to the technology itself. I know a handful of folks who have had poor results with the Razor fixture. I've seen waaaaaay too many successful stony tanks under other fixtures to say that LED's aren't viable.

Very cool thread! IMO the best aquascapes look horrible until the corals grow in. The hobbyists with the real skill have the ability to envision how the corals will grow in which allows them to make the shape of the reef and not necessarily just the rock. I lack that ability lol.

Thanks guys. I picked one up off of ebay. I just like gadgets http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-FLOWMETER-ROTAMETER-2-20-gpm-inline-/390779217005?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5afc41a46d

Is anyone aware of an inline water flow meter that can be used to measure and/or monitor the output of a pump? The application would be for dialing in the flow rate through a UV sterilizer.

-Turn off powerheads. Also be sure to photograph the tank when the water is clear. -Moving subjects (including coral polyps) will require a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the motion. -Set the aperture to achieve the desired depth of field. -We're typically shooting in bright light so the ISO can be low. I usually shoot around 200-400 for corals, a bit higher for faster moving subjects like fish. -White balance is key. Familiarize yourself with how to do custom WB. -If you need to use a flash, do so off camera and experiment with placement. I also like to use colored gels to match the color of the flash to the color of the ambient light. Otherwise the different colored light will look goofy. -Shoot raw so you'll have more options in post.

Any pathogens that you're worried about being in the water will also be in the sand. Also it's more likely that ich tomonts will be transferred in the sand.

Leopard wrasse sold

A31 sold

Pink margin sold

I build steel stands and am in Baltimore as well. If you want a quick 'n dirty 2x4 stand I can help you out with that, too. Would be willing to trade work for frags.

I mix formula one (blue top) and omega one (green top) 50/50 and feed that mixture in the morning before work and also in between feedings of frozen food.

Yeah I had thought about that before but for some reason it didn't concern me much. I am using Prazi strictly for flukes and internal parasites (worms). Not ich. I have a copy of Marks QT manual.

No. I've lost too many fish and seen too many fish lost due to not QT. Not a risk I'm willing to take anymore.

I didn't have any live rock in the big system when the first incident happened and there has never been copper in the smaller QT tank.

I've run into a problem with QT twice in as many months and I'd like to hear opinions from those who may be more experienced than I am. The first time was with a large isolation system while my display was fallow to eradicate ich. I was able to manage ammonia levels, the fish were eating well and getting fat and treatments went flawlessly until I dosed PraziPro. It was around 48 hours after adding the Prazi Pro and I noticed the water clouded up. I assumed it was a bacterial bloom (I had been using Seachem Stability) but I hooked up my carbon reactor. The next day I couldn't see through the water and I was worried about the fish so I took a net and tried to scoop them out. I was surprised to find that I had lost about 30% of the fish in the system. I decided to cut the QT period short and added the surviving fish to the display. I checked the ammonia and it had risen from 0 to 1ppm overnight and that's what killed the fish. I didn't think much of it and assumed I had overfed and gotten complacent about water changes. Thought I had learned my lesson. Fast forward to yesterday. I had a 55g tank set up that I am using for a more permanent QT system for new arrivals. It has housed a single yellowfin flasher wrasse for the past three weeks. Once again, all was well until I dosed PraziPro. I checked on the system before work and the water had started to cloud up once again, only 48 hours after adding the PraziPro. I was able to remove the wrasse and place it into another tank. Based on these two experiences I can only surmise that the PraziPro is having some sort of effect on the biological filter in my QT systems. Has anyone else noticed this, had a similar experience or know what I could be doing wrong? QT details: Filtration is by way of air-driven sponge filters and HOB power filters. The 55g has some live rock in it which I remove during copper and antibacterial treatments. Temps were steady at 78-79* Feedings are light, two or three times a day. Water changes are 50% weekly using water from my main system. Only additive I've been using is Seachem Stability. Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Wrasses please! All males except for the mystery. Please let me know what's available. Red margin, hooded, lineatus, rhomboid, sorarensis, naoko, mystery, longfin (c.rubriventralis).

I would avoid an internal overflow box at all costs. When I had my tank made I could only get an internal box, and I hate it.

I would have a local builder add an external overflow box so you can utilize the BeanAnimal style overflow.

I bought a small pack at a LFS to try and did not like it. I felt like it was watered down, for lack of a better term. I have found Scott's and Rod's foods to be far superior.

Thanks. Some guys cover them to match the decor of the room and others leave them "naked". I had to cover mine up because it was so hideous. Here is a photo of it once it was skinned.

Here's the stand I built for my tank. Used 6" angle iron because I had it laying around. The longest peices are made from rectangular tubing to avoid a vertical suport in the center.

I've built quite a few stands that size and used 1/8" wall square tubing on all of them. It's more than sufficient so long as the proper supports are engineered into the design. Here are a couple examples; I call this one OVERKILL! Some of you may recognize this one

I've had this issue in the past with dust causing problems with fish. If the dust finds its way into the fishes gills it will cause big problems. This happens much faster than the development of HITH of HLLE. Since then I only use pelletized carbon, am sure not to set the flow too high and use it sporadically.

Another vote for the BeanAnimal overflow. I've run that setup for 4 years with no floods and no noise.

Cannot live without a prickly sea cucumber. The key (IMO) if you have a sandbed. I also like trochus snails a lot. They're more $$, but live forever and work hard. The bulk of my CUC is astrea snails. I have a bunch of hermits of different types which I have to replenish a couple times a year. Not sure how much they contribute to the effort but I like having them.