Wrench

Nah, this joker is FUBAR. Ran dry for what appears to be a long time while I was out of town. Tank-sitter failed to follow the instructions I left. I could get it to work for a short period of time but I'd be afraid to leave the house or go to sleep.

Well, the frag tank is also in the basement and that is all still running and I've dropped a spare heater into the display. It's just a question of how long the display can go with no skimmer, ca reactor, etc. I may be able to patch the pump together enough to run for a few hours a couple times a day just to exchange the water in the display.

I'm willing to drive 1-1.5 hours. I'm near Baltimore. Using a different pump isn't really an option because the sump is in the basement (pump needs to be high pressure) and the plumbing and configuration won't allow a change.

I'm willing to drive 1-1.5 hours. I'm near Baltimore. Using a different pump isn't really an option because the sump is in the basement (pump needs to be high pressure) and the plumbing and configuration won't allow a change.

My return pump ate an impeller last night. I'm hoping to get lucky and find someone local that's got a spare pump or impeller laying around that they would be willing to part with until I can get a replacement delivered. The pump is a Blueline70/Panworld 250PS. Anyone?

As the carbon becomes clogged it limits the amount of flow through the ozone reactor, which is indicated by a Dwyer air flow meter installed on the ozone reactor. This happens every 6 weeks or so.

NEVER run O3 without a controller!! I've always run O3 on my systems, which are typically over stocked. The water is ultra clear and the skimmer pulls out some naaasty crud. On my smaller tanks I would just use a T on the air line and inject the O3 that way. On my new (bigger) system that was inifficient so I've recently set up the Avast reactor. The output then runs into my carbon reactor to scrub off any excess 03. If you don't have a controller now, you could use a Red Sea ozonizer with a built in controller. The other nice feature of these is that the amount of ozone produced is adjustable. This allows you to utilize ozone on small nano systems without fear of overdosing.

survivallaser.com If you get in trouble with it, we never had this conversation.

I have a 1.4w high powered laser with a focus-able beam that will zap anything it touches. I can literally set your shirt on fire from across the room. It is handy for killing aptasia and mojanos with pinpoint accuracy.

I have a laser that would do the trick

Is it debris or microbubbles? The bubbles can be so tiny that they look like dirt/detritus.

John, I have always been happy with the service from you and your employees at your store. You were the first place I called when I bought an Aquacontroller. You were willing to ship it for me since I'm almost two hours away. Thats good service. I'd rather buy locally and am willing to pay more but there's a limit. For example, my LFS has Koralia Magnum 7 powerheads marked $269.98. The same pump can be had online for around $90.

Thanks all. Currently, it is broken! Every time I add a new fish to the system it becomes heavily infected with some sort of pathogen. At first I thought it was just ich but it's not. The fish develop white blotches which look like velvet and while they continue to eat, within three weeks of so they will die. This isn't limited to finicky fish. I have lost a lot of wrasses, a flame angel, a kole tang, etc. This mostly happens with newly acquired fish but I have lost several long term inhabitants of my system. I had done a bit of reading and found some information that suggested an infestation of flukes cold present itself in this manner. I treated the whole system with prazipro with no results. I have a tremendous amount of coral in the system and it would be easier to move the fish than break down my whole display.

I have made the mistake of never quarantining anything that's gone into my system. New additions to the system are always a crap shoot now and I am apprehensive to do so. I am entertaining the idea of removing all fish from the display, QT'ing and treating before returning them to the system but I have a few questions. I have the means to house all of my fish in a seperate system. I have an 8' long compartmentalized tank, sump, skimmer and UV that I can set up. What would be an acceptable method of filtration? I have read to use an HOB filter with media cycled in an established system. Wouldn't the use of antibiotics negate this method? What about amquel or something similar? How frequently should I do water changes? How soon could I safely add fish to this new system? What should I treat with? Prazipro, copper and furan 2? How long should I leave the system fish-less? I know the system has C.irritans and some other disease that I haven't been able to ID. How would the corals and other inverts fare without fish? My initial thought is that they'd be fine but I am concened that the bacterial populations will dwindle and that I will have to re-cycle the tank when adding the fish. Any input will be GREATLY appreciated!! Wrench is online now Report Post

House of tropicals is in glen burnie and is a good place for fish. Not the prettiest store, but as long as you know how to select health specimens you will be ok. Exotic aquatics has nice fish and some nice corals ( good selection of ORA corals and LPS but they're pricey. Today's Pet in Columbia is nice and clean. Healthy stock from Quality Marine but the saltwater section is small. Good if you're in the area but don't make a special trip. Sea save is good for a few laughs.

I had one in my system for over four years. Would probably still be alive if it hadn't lost the fight with my candy hog fish.

Mine still a frag itself but I may need to cut it anyway since it's growing off of the frag disc. Guy get's first dibs, I already owe him a favor.

I've got a piece that I acquired from Spankey before his tank came down. Nice coral

I always used stuff from Bulk Reef Supply. No worries about bad lots or getting the wrong stuff. I initially bought their starter kit for something like $45 and it lasted almost a year on my 140g system.

Johnny, I will take two please. I can pick up next weekend. If you would like me to send payment somehow just let me know. My email address is t.bracci@yahoo.com and is the best way to contact me.

I've never been able to get that stuff off. It even shows up on tanks that were used with freshwater. I believe that it's actually in the pores of the glass somehow. That being said, however, once there is water in the tank the haze is not visible.

I use the 10k's and they're very white. They look very nice. A side note though, their customer service SUCKS! I bought a pair brand new from Premium Aquatics. These bulbs carry a 30day warranty. Two weeks go by and one wont fire. I contacted CoralVue and they told me I'm SOL.

Found this thread yesterday, http://www.melevsreef.com/id/whats_a_whelk.html Matt, the ones I got from SeaSave are DEFINITELY whelks. Working on catching them all now.

Sure, I'll send you a PM as to not clutter up this thread.

I just found this link, http://www.reefland.com/forum/95938-post17.html We may be ok getting them from Sea Save as they are collecting these snails from Florida and are most likely Nassarius Vibex as opposed the harmful Ilyanasa Obsoleta